Changing tub cappings - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 30th, 2012, 10:26 AM
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Changing tub cappings

Going to be changing cappings and in need of some tips from those who have done it before. Is there a sealant that gets placed between tub & capping? any tips or experiences greatly appreciated. Also what size rivets used.... thanks
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  #2  
Old September 30th, 2012, 11:00 AM
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Jason England
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I found a great step by step somewhere. Il try and find it again ... Be prepared to remove lots of interior trim ...

Are you going to leave the galv or paint them white?

------ Follow up post added September 30th, 2012 11:02 AM ------

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=55697
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #3  
Old September 30th, 2012, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
I found a great step by step somewhere. Il try and find it again ... Be prepared to remove lots of interior trim ...

Are you going to leave the galv or paint them white?

------ Follow up post added September 30th, 2012 11:02 AM ------

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=55697

Awesome thread man! so literally will have to loosen whole top.... always worry about opening new leaks thereafter..... fairly large job.... seems from thread that there is a foam seal in between.... doesnt mention it. I thought I had read at somewhere people using some kind of sealant barrier, in case my shot.....

Regarding paint.... was thinking of leaving the galvy look......
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  #4  
Old October 1st, 2012, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpigapicha View Post
Awesome thread man! so literally will have to loosen whole top.... always worry about opening new leaks thereafter..... fairly large job.... seems from thread that there is a foam seal in between.... doesnt mention it. I thought I had read at somewhere people using some kind of sealant barrier, in case my shot.....

Regarding paint.... was thinking of leaving the galvy look......
SW or ST?
Galvy would look good...
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  #5  
Old October 1st, 2012, 11:38 AM
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I did this on chicky and she did not have sealant, but NAS 110s seem to have it. It is not too hard to do just takes a ton of time and buy a GIANT rivet gun not the $20 sears special.
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Old October 1st, 2012, 05:45 PM
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This is for the ultra desirable white 95 SW ...
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #7  
Old October 1st, 2012, 06:19 PM
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Post pics when you are done, this and the Xmember were what brought the truck down. Glad to see it taken care of!
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  #8  
Old October 1st, 2012, 08:41 PM
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A NAS truck is going to be more work due to interior trim around windows and roll bar ... Lets know when you plan to do it and il bring morale support. Also might be a good time to recover your headlining ...
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #9  
Old October 1st, 2012, 10:54 PM
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very useful tread thanks for sharing. I will do mine this winter.
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  #10  
Old October 2nd, 2012, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
A NAS truck is going to be more work due to interior trim around windows and roll bar ... Lets know when you plan to do it and il bring morale support. Also might be a good time to recover your headlining ...
Interior trim comes off rather easy, i never pulled it in the Defender, but i have done numerous other vehicles and it is not too time consuming.
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  #11  
Old October 2nd, 2012, 12:35 PM
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SW..... I agree with galvy look... plus rear cross gonna be swapped for a galvy one as well


Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
SW or ST?
Galvy would look good...
------ Follow up post added October 2nd, 2012 12:36 PM ------

Both are on the agenda probably before winter.... have them already galvy..... now just the dirty work



Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnsD90 View Post
Post pics when you are done, this and the Xmember were what brought the truck down. Glad to see it taken care of!
------ Follow up post added October 2nd, 2012 12:42 PM ------

oh don't worry Jason, I'll let you know alright so you can bring me live morale & get the chance to work on a highly desirable white D90....
its what I'm thinking as well for headliner..... just not sure which way to go or even where to go.... maybe corduroy? catholic school plaid pattern?


Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
A NAS truck is going to be more work due to interior trim around windows and roll bar ... Lets know when you plan to do it and il bring morale support. Also might be a good time to recover your headlining ...
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  #12  
Old October 2nd, 2012, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I did this on chicky and she did not have sealant, but NAS 110s seem to have it. It is not too hard to do just takes a ton of time and buy a GIANT rivet gun not the $20 sears special.
Thanks for gun tip.... I'll have to procure one..... any sealant you recommend Ron? seems it should have something there.
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  #13  
Old October 2nd, 2012, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpigapicha View Post
Thanks for gun tip.... I'll have to procure one..... any sealant you recommend Ron? seems it should have something there.
No need to use sealant at all in my experience. It was mainly there to isolate the steel from the aluminium which no longer matters once you galvanize. I bought the big rivNUT gun (that also does rivets) from mcmaster carr (I think) or some link on this website.

------ Follow up post added October 2nd, 2012 01:21 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Air riveter is much easier than the manual ones.

-Jeff
Also loud and requires a compressor. A 24in or so rivNUT gun works really easy on rivets.
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  #14  
Old October 2nd, 2012, 07:55 PM
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All my cappings are at the galvanizers as we speak. Mine is a Ex-Mod 110 so there is no interior trim to worry about, which makes it really easy to remove, once the roof is off. There was no sealant under the cappings.

I used just a normal hand riveter when I galvanized my Series cappings a few years ago. Hand ached for a while afterwards. I have an air rivet gun now.

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  #15  
Old October 2nd, 2012, 09:36 PM
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[QUOTE=evilfij;378081]No need to use sealant at all in my experience. It was mainly there to isolate the steel from the aluminium which no longer matters once you galvanize. I bought the big rivNUT gun (that also does rivets) from mcmaster carr (I think) or some link on this website.

Is that a lever style or plier style rivet gun? looked at mcmaster, found 18" lever style..... harbor freight has an air one for relatively good price. I know they're pretty shitty tools but gets some good write ups and considering how rarely I'll use it after the cappings seems like better choice. I have a large compressor which would power it easily
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