Changed the fuel filter (300tdi) car won't run - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 14th, 2012, 08:12 PM
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Changed the fuel filter (300tdi) car won't run

I've done this many times before with no issues, now the car won't run and barely idles...
I think there is air in the system or something.

ideas?
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  #2  
Old July 14th, 2012, 08:15 PM
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Should be a straight swap, no concern about air. I've done this at least half dozen times, all I do is pull the old filter, fill new one with ATF, screw on, and start. Even though some say otherwise Tdi is a self bleeding system.

Are you sure you didn't knock some wires or fittings off while you were in there?
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  #3  
Old July 14th, 2012, 08:29 PM
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Don't think so. It was running fine for a few min. Then got very rough and stalled. Won't start now. Doesn't use the regular 300tdi filter. Some other one purolator 50149. A replaceable can that has a 2 part housing
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  #4  
Old July 14th, 2012, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillstrubl View Post
Don't think so. It was running fine for a few min. Then got very rough and stalled. Won't start now. Doesn't use the regular 300tdi filter. Some other one purolator 50149. A replaceable can that has a 2 part housing
Photo?
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  #5  
Old July 14th, 2012, 09:13 PM
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Needs to be primed, system has aired due to possible inapropiate filter replacement procedure
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Old July 14th, 2012, 09:17 PM
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Does your filter housing have a bleed screw?
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  #7  
Old July 14th, 2012, 09:43 PM
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Same thing happened on my 90, needed to bleed it well using the bleed screw and the hand pump thing behind the IP. The running fine for a few minutes was it burning off the fuel that was in the lines downstream of the filter.
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Old July 14th, 2012, 10:05 PM
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No leaks as far as I can see. It just won't fire up. Seems starved for fuel or something. I'm going to take the filter assembly apart tomorrow and reassemble. Maybe I missed something. One of the problems with this kind is that you can't actually fill it up with atf, etc then screw it on without getting it everywhere due to the bottom joint. The bolt that goes through it holds the filter to the top and bottom part of the housing. Filling the filter itself is moot unless you can arrange and tighten that bolt it about a quarter of a second...

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  #9  
Old July 14th, 2012, 10:23 PM
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anybody know on that housing where the bleed screw is? also, care to walk me through manually pumping the fuel on the injector pump?
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  #10  
Old July 14th, 2012, 11:34 PM
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That's a tiny filter. Swap it out for a Stanadyne FM100.
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Old July 15th, 2012, 05:00 AM
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Even if there's no bleed "screw" on the filter housing, you can still bleed it; just undo the pipe on the outlet of the housing, or on the end of the pipe on the FIP. either crank it over or use the lever on the mechaincal lift pump until fuel squirts out.
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  #12  
Old July 15th, 2012, 08:43 AM
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that looks like a non standard isuzu/ford filter housing - the black plastic cap over the diaphram housing it should be depressed repeatedly to bleed it, there should also be a lever on the bottom of the lift pump to bleed a standard system.

regards all

Gren
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  #13  
Old July 15th, 2012, 10:10 AM
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If the lift pump is working and the fuel lines plumbed properly....then it should self bleed without any trouble.

Either the lift pump is dead, easy to check... There is a leak on the suction side... Or it is plumbed incorrectly..
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  #14  
Old July 15th, 2012, 11:26 AM
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not sure what filter head that is but its not a tdi one. I'd ditch it.
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  #15  
Old July 15th, 2012, 11:33 AM
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All is well. thanks for everybody's help.

turns out that circle thing on top of the filter housing is a bleed pump... I took it apart, made sure it was seated in teh o-rings properly, reinstalled, pumped it 10 times and it fired right up.

I'm definitely changing the housing to a screw-on type though. Maybe using one of these kits? -> http://abcprecision.com/
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Old July 15th, 2012, 11:51 AM
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The Stanadyne FM100 is also a really great filter. Affordable and their filters come in a variety of grades all the way down to 2 micron which is what I run. They also have optional water separator attachments, fuel filter heater attachments (great for bio) and filter indicators.
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Old July 15th, 2012, 12:59 PM
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And it bolts straight to the stock location.
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Old July 15th, 2012, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
The Stanadyne FM100 is also a really great filter. Affordable and their filters come in a variety of grades all the way down to .2 micron which is what I run. They also have optional water separator attachments, fuel filter heater attachments (great for bio) and filter indicators.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
And it bolts straight to the stock location.

Will look into this thanks. I might be interested in a dual setup filtering to 30 micron, then 2 or 5 micron (yes overkill, I'm aware). Who knows maybe if I'm swapping it out I can add a heated element or something too.
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Old July 15th, 2012, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
not sure what filter head that is but its not a tdi one. I'd ditch it.
Planning on it, I'm looking into other options now. Vendors recommendations welcome!
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  #20  
Old July 15th, 2012, 03:24 PM
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Do you have a sedimentor? I was considering replacing the sedimentor with a 150 micron pre filter and a water separator in the sedimentor location then have a final 2 micron filter in the stock location. Like you said it might be a little overkill unless your are overlanding in countries with really crappy diesel. Also I would worry a bit about the the flow and if it would strain the pumps excessively? Anyone here run two fuel filters?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hillstrubl

Will look into this thanks. I might be interested in a dual setup filtering to 30 micron, then 2 or 5 micron (yes overkill, I'm aware). Who knows maybe if I'm swapping it out I can add a heated element or something too.
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