Changed head gasket now TDI wont start - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 3rd, 2015, 12:25 AM
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Mike Barnett
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Changed head gasket now TDI wont start

I loosened the unions at the injectors and I'm getting diesel there, is it possible there is still air in the injector pump? It turns over quickly with a pause every few seconds, which sounds a little odd. Any ideas appreciated.

Mike
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  #2  
Old April 3rd, 2015, 04:23 AM
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Shouldn't be air in the pump if you're getting it up at the injectors.

If you just did a head job then the timing should be correct.... you did refit the pushrods didn't ya??
check the valve clearance, but the engine should still attempt to try to start even if they were a little out.
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Old April 3rd, 2015, 06:46 AM
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I had a similar thing happen, I didn't have the valves adjusted properly, by the time I figured it out I had completely flooded it, I left it alone for a day and it started right up..
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Old April 3rd, 2015, 07:15 AM
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I agree. Check valve adjustment. If it's getting fuel it should kick right off and run rough for a few seconds then smooth out.
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Old April 3rd, 2015, 07:16 AM
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Jim, i knew i was forgetting something.... Lol . I adjusted the valves and then checked them a second time, but it's not hard to check again. This engine has always started first time so I was surprised to have any trouble at all.
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Old April 3rd, 2015, 07:20 AM
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Did you unplug the fuel cutoff valve under the injector pump by any chance? Single white wire under the injector pump if I recall? That would cause it not to start but not the intermittent pausing...
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Old April 3rd, 2015, 07:27 AM
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The pause could be from a valve adjusted too tight
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Old April 3rd, 2015, 09:13 AM
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Everytime I've done it, it always takes a while to get the juice flowing. Takes several iterations of starting attempts (let that starter cool) and just before it starts it seems like the engine is about to self destruct, shaking violently.
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Old April 3rd, 2015, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
Everytime I've done it, it always takes a while to get the juice flowing. Takes several iterations of starting attempts (let that starter cool) and just before it starts it seems like the engine is about to self destruct, shaking violently.
Another reason to have a self bleeding fuel system.
Tank, sedimenter, 12V diesel fuel pump, lift pump, fuel filter, IP, return line back to tank.
Key on = Air purged = engine starts right away.
Not a good idea to crank a dry IP if the injector lines were removed.

Valve adjustment is paramount and should have been a mandatory step in the process just after the multiple head bolt degree torquings were finished.
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Old April 3rd, 2015, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Valve adjustment is paramount and should have been a mandatory step in the process just after the multiple head bolt degree torquings were finished.
Yes, as stated I adjusted the valves and then checked them again during the process of putting it back together. Went home at lunch and bled the pump and the lines to the injector again, removed the head cover and check valve adjustment again (all were spot on) and then tried again. Took a few seconds but then started up in manner similar to what Mark described. Once started it smoothed out and sounds good. Thanks for the advice all.
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Old April 3rd, 2015, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Another reason to have a self bleeding fuel system.
Tank, sedimenter, 12V diesel fuel pump, lift pump, fuel filter, IP, return line back to tank.
Key on = Air purged = engine starts right away.
Not a good idea to crank a dry IP if the injector lines were removed.

Valve adjustment is paramount and should have been a mandatory step in the process just after the multiple head bolt degree torquings were finished.
Rob, my comments were always after bleeding the lines. Never tried it dry without a prime. That would just be a waste of time.
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