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  #21  
Old April 7th, 2016, 09:58 AM
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Jeff B
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Ideally, you want to do the 2 hammer method. Like that used to shock TRE's loose.
Use a BFH but brace it on the opposite side with an equally BFH.


.
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  #22  
Old April 7th, 2016, 10:07 AM
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Chris
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Using a long chisel (I have a 2' one) gives you the ability to use it as a wedge between the pitman arm and steering box like Jimmy said. If it's long it gets you out of the way to actually be able to hit the chisel and drive them apart.
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  #23  
Old April 7th, 2016, 10:18 AM
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Armando Centeno
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I bought a new pitman arm and replaced the old one. I had to cut into the old one until enough tension was release. Good time to convert a disco version of the steering setup if you can. I have a Snap On heavy duty pitman arm puller for sale now.
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  #24  
Old April 7th, 2016, 10:36 AM
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Can you rent a hydraulic pitman arm puller?
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #25  
Old April 7th, 2016, 12:14 PM
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I gots some grief a while back for buying one from London for LR ($200 us). But it didnt slip off like the ones I could get here and I didnt have to beat the shit out of it with a hammer. If you are stuck and need to borrow it, i'll mail it to you. Going to need a big ass impact or long cheater bar though.
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  #26  
Old April 7th, 2016, 01:10 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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Dammit, now I seem I like only guy on here who hasn't conquered a stuck pitman arm. Sigh, ok I have a harbor freight near me. I'll go over there this weekend and see what they got. I need the tool anyway in case I need to remove it on a trail for whatever reason. I also don't have a socket large enough for that nut. While I"m there, i'll pick one up.. does anyone know the size of that nut?
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  #27  
Old April 7th, 2016, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
Dammit, now I seem I like only guy on here who hasn't conquered a stuck pitman arm. Sigh, ok I have a harbor freight near me. I'll go over there this weekend and see what they got. I need the tool anyway in case I need to remove it on a trail for whatever reason. I also don't have a socket large enough for that nut. While I"m there, i'll pick one up.. does anyone know the size of that nut?
Harbor Freight isn't going to help you succeed .. if its that stuck you need a quality tool. Do you have any tool rental places close?
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #28  
Old April 7th, 2016, 02:37 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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I have Oreillys and Napa. I took a look at their rental section and the tools look meh. I like the one that locks the jaws onto the pitman arm, especially if I'm gonna slam it with a BFH. I'll see what they got. Oreillys sells it for 80 bucks.

OTC 7310A - Pitman Arm Puller | O'Reilly Auto Parts
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  #29  
Old April 7th, 2016, 02:59 PM
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FYI you are hitting the arm not the puller.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
I have Oreillys and Napa. I took a look at their rental section and the tools look meh. I like the one that locks the jaws onto the pitman arm, especially if I'm gonna slam it with a BFH. I'll see what they got. Oreillys sells it for 80 bucks.

OTC 7310A - Pitman Arm Puller | O'Reilly Auto Parts
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #30  
Old April 7th, 2016, 03:10 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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Ha yes I'm aware. Still want it on there as good as possible..

Going to look for one of those forks too so I can hammer that. Any ideas on the nut size?
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  #31  
Old April 7th, 2016, 03:15 PM
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Ok, just checking

Not sure on the nut size, I never seem to have the socket for them. Air chisel, or a big fat adjustable might get it off.

have to be careful with the fork style as there is a dust seal on the outside of the box that can get damaged.


Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
Ha yes I'm aware. Still want it on there as good as possible..

Going to look for one of those forks too so I can hammer that. Any ideas on the nut size?
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #32  
Old April 7th, 2016, 03:16 PM
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henery
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Youtube I believe
Land Rover Tool Box

Seems like they had a tutorial on this
Hope it helps
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  #33  
Old April 7th, 2016, 03:16 PM
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Kurt Ohlendorf
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Why removing the arm?

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tml#post548845
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  #34  
Old April 7th, 2016, 03:39 PM
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fyi - I have obtained the best performance of pullers from turning them with a mighty impact wrench. Just lay on the nut with a 350+ ft-lb impact wrench until either the part comes off or the puller explodes
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  #35  
Old April 8th, 2016, 06:44 AM
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Gren Thomas
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I've blown the seals on my 10T hydraulic puller attempting to get the arm off the steering box just to replace a 10 joint I ended up cutting that arm off, now i just change the joint on the car 30mins and all done.

Arlo had a nicely engineered setup but this shows all you need to do it :DA1125 Land Rover Defender Steering Drop Arm Ball Joint Removal Tool | eBay

regards
Gren
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