CA 1995 Defender Won't pass smog - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 1st, 2015, 02:29 AM
Douglas Young
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Douglas Young
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CA 1995 Defender Won't pass smog

Hi Guys- I looked for a previous post as Mike as suggested but couldn't find it. May be time to get glasses.... I've tried to get my 1995 NAS Defender to pass smog 2 times not without success. I'm reading 135-144 on the HC's ( Hydrocarbons). I put gas dryers in it, Cataclean, changed the plugs and still no success. What am I missing here- Love this car, raised 4 kids and 3 dogs in it, took my wife in labor to the hospital with it ( she still hates the way it rides ) wouldn't even think about get rid of it- but need to get new reg. tags before I get pulled over. Any comments or assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Doug

1995 NAS Defender 90
298K miles, Daily driver
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  #2  
Old March 1st, 2015, 07:36 AM
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WeBeCinYa
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298K on the original drivetrain?? Wish I could help, someone from CA will chime in soon. Post some pics!
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1994 Defender 90
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1996 Discovery I (sold)
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  #3  
Old March 1st, 2015, 07:53 AM
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Chris
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Could be so many things.

Easy fixes or cheap
Ignition components bad (eg weak coil etc)
Vacuum hose leaks etc, rubber hoses cracked etc-replace as necessary
Seafoam?

Expensive stuff
Timing off (including worn timing chain)
Bad cat (lets face it 298k is pretty good)
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #4  
Old March 1st, 2015, 08:06 AM
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Greg Chin Sr
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With that many miles on the motor, the first thing I would do is a compression test on all cylinders. Sometimes one, or two bad cylinders can cause a high HC reading.
Greg
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  #5  
Old March 1st, 2015, 10:22 AM
the rover shop
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shayne young
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Try doing the test with a couple of gallons avgas or racing fuel in the tank..any of the higher octane fuels usually help burn cleaner.. Pull an injector plug or two off, turns that cylinder into an air pump and can get your emissions down.. Take it to a shop that has an emission machine and play with which 2 cylinders makes a difference without making it feel like it missing..and try running a thicker oil in it..20w/50 should prevent as much oil burning as possible..or even 50wt..maybe change to a decent set of twin electrode spark plugs of a slightly warmer heat range, may get you that slight bit of extra burn that you need..
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  #6  
Old March 1st, 2015, 10:53 AM
outfield
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Mine would not pass, because of the hydrocarbons, I had not cleaned the K&N filter for a while. Cleaned the K&N filter and the MAS and it passes fine.
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  #7  
Old March 1st, 2015, 11:03 AM
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Russell
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I would be looking into cats if those are still original. But start by looking into thermostat or temp sending sensor. Then try graphing the Oxygen sensors. One may be lazy and causing your rich issues. Check for vacuum leaks. Even a minimal leak on the brake vacuum servo bladder could be the cause. Others have said you can even fool the ECU into the idea of the engine being hot by installing a resistor in place of the coolant temp sensor thus leaning the mixture. Good luck. Please circle back with what was performed to correct.

------ Follow up post added March 1st, 2015 11:05 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by outfield View Post
Mine would not pass, because of the hydrocarbons, I had not cleaned the K&N filter for a while. Cleaned the K&N filter and the MAS and it passes fine.
Do you clean using K&N's recommended procedures of using oil? If so, watch out for contaminating the MAF wire.
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  #8  
Old March 1st, 2015, 11:23 AM
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Jafir Elkurd
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I had a pre-obd2 vehicle (not a Land Rover) with a bad O2 sensor that still gave plausible data to the computer so that it wouldn't throw any codes for the sensor. It basically just kept saying I'm a little lean and the computer would throw more fuel into the mix. I noticed my MPGs going way down.
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  #9  
Old March 1st, 2015, 11:37 AM
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Skinny Pete
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Lot of bad advice here. Bad cats and/or overfueling (rich mixture)will lead to high CO readings not HC.

HC is raw, unburned fuel which results from failure of the mixture to ignite for some reason. CO is fuel that burned just in a less tan ideal fashion.

Don't do the stupid sugestions of using avgas or whatever to trick the system. Your readings wouldn't be that high if everything was working properly and the EFI system is easy to diagnose. These "tricks" to pass emissions may work but then you will still be driving with something not functioning properly which may result in damage over the long term. (washed cylinder and piston rings, dead cats, etc) And that unburned fuel is being wasted going out the tailpipe.

The advice to perform a compression test is right on, that is the first thing you need to do to asses the condition of your motor. Example, I spent two months fucking around with my v8 trying to pass emissions with HC numbers about 10x your reading. Finally did the compression test and discovered a burned valve and only 30psi compression in that cylinder i.e. not enough to ignite the mixture.

WHile you are doing the compression test, look at all the sparkplugs as you remove them and see if anything is revealed by their condition. In my case the #2 plug was always wet with fuel.

I suspect with your numbers that you don't have a total failure of one cylinder as that will push the HC upwards of 1200ppm.

Your number are just a little higher than normal. I've had similar numbers when the timing was too far advanced. Partly because the timing pointer was bent and my readings were off by about 4 degrees. Assuming you can somehow identify actual TDC, a dial-back timing light will allow you to get an accurate setting of your advance, and to make sure both the vacuum and mechanical advance are working correctly.

BTW, is this an idle only test or idle and part throttle? Rolling road, or?
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  #10  
Old March 1st, 2015, 12:45 PM
ctp
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Chris Pritt
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When I lived in CA there was a basic test, which was at idle. Some counties (that have higher smog) have an "enhanced" (I think it's called) test where the car is put on a "dyno-something" and it gets the reading for the vehicle while driving.
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  #11  
Old March 1st, 2015, 12:49 PM
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David Frank
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That's true, but since it's 4wd full time, they usually can't do the rolling load test. When mine gets done, it's just idle and static load (n) at 2k rpm's.
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  #12  
Old March 1st, 2015, 12:50 PM
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Neill Thornton
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Land Rovers are automatically exempt from the Dynamometer testing since they are full time 4 wheel drive.
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  #13  
Old March 1st, 2015, 12:58 PM
ctp
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Chris Pritt
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I didn't know about the 4WD. I had my wife take our vehicles to get smogged in OC (all 4wd) because attractive chicks get faster service than bearded cavemen covered in tattoos.
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  #14  
Old March 1st, 2015, 01:02 PM
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David Frank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctp View Post
I didn't know about the 4WD. I had my wife take our vehicles to get smogged in OC (all 4wd) because attractive chicks get faster service than bearded cavemen covered in tattoos.
Ahhh! So your smart and lucky! ;-)
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  #15  
Old March 1st, 2015, 01:42 PM
Douglas Young
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Thanks for the support guys- All good stuff- will definitely keep you posted on final results. I didn't know that some CA counties and stations for that matter, may have different protocols. It passes the idle but not the dyno. I'll see if I can get it done without the rolling test. Compression test makes sense too. Cat is original - the Cat people said it looks good, but with 298K - it makes sense to change that out.

BTW- Matt asked about my trannie- drive train rather........ I bought it as a second owner back in 2001 with 100K on it. Previous owner a cattle rancher had a failure at 75 K. I just put one in from Ashcroft and Sons last year at 275K. As mentioned, it's my Daily Driver, most all freeway driving with a little off road when I can. Ashcroft and Sons was awesome but my experience getting it out of hock with DHL and Customs was not. Couldn't pick up directly from the airport. Made me wait 3 weeks and pay for storage and delivery to a holding facility. Total was $350 to get it out of customs and into my hands. Still saved money overall

Thanks again guys,

Doug
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  #16  
Old March 1st, 2015, 04:12 PM
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Neill Thornton
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It's also worth noting that the protocol used by the smog check station is based on the zip code of your registration. So even if you drive up to Del Norte county, you will still need to follow Alameda County standards.
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