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  #161  
Old June 12th, 2010, 12:44 AM
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Dr. Gonzo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I am surprised they actually came off, I have had caliper bolts break (no fun) let alone brake lines breaking. If you get new pistons and seals the calipers can be rebuilt for $40 or so each. Put an air line (with a rubber nozzle) on where the brake like goes and see if you can get the pistons to move. Once one moves, push it back in and lock it in place with a clamp and when all four are loose, blow two close to out and then pull the other two out. Also long as the bores are not rusted, they are fine to rebuilt like that. Make sure to use brake grease (not wheel bearing grease) when you reinstall the seals. If you don't have any, make sure to lube the seals up with brake fluid. BTW use Castrol GT LMA brake fluid only.

Ron

edit: put up a picture of the area where the transmission crossmember is bolted to the frame, they tend to rust out there and you want to patch it now before it gets bad and dumps crap into the frame and rusts the inside out.
I told you Ron - it's all surface rust!

Thanks for the tips on the the calipers, but I'm afraid removing them is kind of the peak of my abilities right now. I'm going to be sending the calipers off to be refinished. It'll give me some time to continue the de-rustification/de-scaling process.

I'll take a look at the crossmember this weekend, see how that baby looks.

Jerod
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  #162  
Old June 12th, 2010, 12:47 AM
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Well it looks like surface rust until you drop the crossmember and there are holes in the frame behind it.

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/230.html

scroll 1/3 of the way down the page.

Ron

PS unless this is a wish it and it will be true type of thing with respect to the surface rust.
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  #163  
Old June 12th, 2010, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post

PS unless this is a wish it and it will be true type of thing with respect to the surface rust.
Absolutely!
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  #164  
Old June 12th, 2010, 12:51 AM
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I am wishing my new crossmember line itself up perfectly and weld itself on tomorrow! Let's see if it happens.
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  #165  
Old June 12th, 2010, 10:04 AM
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Jerod, I have seen worse pads on a truck in much nicer shape with no rust. So no those pads are not that bad. Other than being some effort to remove, you can take the rotors off and see if they are thick enough to be turned (most auto parts places do it for free) otherwise if they are not badly scored run with (or replace).

I'm with Ron on the calipers. Find someone local if you can to help, but you can pop out the pistons and seals and I beat the insides are just fine. Easy to rebuild.

All in all I don't think they are that bad. Personally I'd throw money at new springs/shocks, and soft brake lines before paying someone to rebuild those calipers. At least try - worst case you send them out after you fail

I'm also still a believer that if you want to get rolling, throw a complete disco 1 axle under there and work on this one at you leisure while enjoying the good weather in the D90. Swap it back in over the winter.

------ Follow up post added June 12th, 2010 10:05 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I am wishing my new crossmember line itself up perfectly and weld itself on tomorrow! Let's see if it happens.
Good luck Ron!
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  #166  
Old June 12th, 2010, 10:20 AM
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[QUOTE=cgalpin;225938]I'm also still a believer that if you want to get rolling, throw a complete disco 1 axle under there and work on this one at you leisure while enjoying the good weather in the D90. Swap it back in over the winter.
QUOTE]

I'm not sure how much worse those pads could be! I suppose they could be brittle and rusty, but I can't believe the PO drove on them so long. I wonder if having to park it because of the brakes came as a surprise to him?

I've heard a lot about dropping a disco I axle in, but truthfully I don't have a lot of sources for something that specialized around here, and I'd think shipping from your climate would cost me more than the axle. What's fair market for one?
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  #167  
Old June 12th, 2010, 11:56 AM
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I paid $200 for a complete set of front and rear axles with everything including the radius arms and rear a-frame. They were in great condition and rust free.

If you find someone parting out a disco or certain range rovers you might be able to snag them for cheap.

Another option is Will Tillery, he is honest and sells good parts at fair prices.

www.roverguy.com

Also check www.car-part.com
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  #168  
Old June 12th, 2010, 12:36 PM
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I sold a pair of Defender axles for 500 one time.
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  #169  
Old June 12th, 2010, 09:23 PM
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I think the key is to find one local and I guarantee there are disco 1's in the junk yards after the cash for clunkers debacle.

OH worse pads? Try metal on metal - not just rivets, but the entire pad gone and the metal backing rubbing on the rotors. It happend to lock up right as he came over to change them!
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  #170  
Old June 12th, 2010, 09:43 PM
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If you send them out, it will be more money than napa rebuilds and maybe even more money than new calipers. Reman places are for rare or expensive calipers. Everything else it does not make economic sense.

edit: nothing wrong with those shocks and springs that they cannot stay there for a while longer. They are ugly, but springs rarely fail and shocks you can check by jumping up and down on each corner of the bumpers -- well you can if you are 6'1" 225lbs like me.
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  #171  
Old June 12th, 2010, 09:46 PM
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awesome. get some redline MTL for the transmission. I am sure that things like the fluids are the least of your worries but please flush the cooling system and install a 180 thermostat. Good luck with the truck I am glad that its going to a good home, patch up the frame and enjoy. I would think the Rover frame should be pretty easy to repair. The interior looks surprisingly good. PB Blaster works miracles.
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  #172  
Old June 13th, 2010, 04:48 AM
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If the pistons come out then throw some stainless pistons in with a new seal kit (get genuine) and you are good to go. Try not to split the calipers is the general advice but that said I've split my calipers and had no problems.
Clean all the rust/road dirt off the outside before splitting. If you can't get the pistons out you could hook them back up to the hydraulic system and stamp on the brake peddle with the free pistons packed in place with some wood to stop them popping out. Messy but they usually move then!
Springs are probably OK, give 'em a rub with emery cloth wrapped around the coil to get rid on the rust if you want or run as they are. Check the dampers by bouncing up and down on the bumper, it will settle very quickly if the dampers are OK but bounce up and down wildly if they're not.
Get the hole near the steering fixed, cut out all the rusty metal and butt weld a patch in use 2.5 -3.00 mm steel. Proper job
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  #173  
Old June 13th, 2010, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post

Also check www.car-part.com
2nd car-part.com for complete axles. I did a search in my area and a bunch came up. Called the closest one that was more expensive but asked him if he could do the cheapest price on the list ($100 less) and he said no problem. From what I understand they work off the same rate list to charge for items.
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  #174  
Old June 26th, 2010, 08:07 PM
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I know you've all been anxiously waiting for an update (yeah, right). Other than the myriad of technical questions and WTB's I've been peppering the board with, I had a little time to update the blog.

http://founD90.wordpress.com/

A few updates from the last week - mostly typed while watching the Cubs implode....there's always next century.

Enjoy.
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  #175  
Old June 29th, 2010, 07:55 AM
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Coming along nicely Jerod.
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  #176  
Old December 6th, 2010, 11:37 PM
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Just was catching up with your blog.

Two questions:
What was the issue with the ecr lines that they didn't work in your truck
What was the issue with the gas tank. As long as it was from an NAS truck there should have been no issue.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #177  
Old March 13th, 2011, 11:43 AM
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On the Road Again!

Update! Truck is back on the road. Check out back-issues of the blog for details, but here's the not-so-short version:

I spend last summer fixing what I could:

1. That meant removing and having the calipers refurbished, new rotors, pads, seals, clean and repack bearings. Replaced a rusty brake pipe, bled and tested.
2. Installed new oil lines, performed oil change.
3. New shocks on all 4 corners
4. Had spare tire/3rd brake bar blasted and powder coated. Remounted with all new stainless hardware
5. Purchased lots of stuff, including a rear seat, some aftermarket seatbelts (FAIL!) and, well, a ton of stuff.
6. Provided my left kidney to Dale in exchange for a fuel tank to replace mine, which had damage and was leaking.

At that point, roughly late August of 2010 I took it to the mechanic for what I thought was some minor work to augment my own. Oh how I was mistaken....

1. He replaced my ECR oil lines with new oil lines from ECR because the original ones didn't fit properly (early '94s are slightly different - thanks to Mike for figuring that out)
2. Installed new fuel tank, and all new Stainless fuel lines, new filter, new filler tube, new hardware
3. Lubed the shit out of the whole truck. New fluids everywhere that takes fluid. New one-shots in the swivel balls, new diff fluid, clutch fluid, tranny fluid, etc....
4. New belts
5. New valve gasket
6. A lot of time was spent on rebuilding the entire emergency brake system. The PO did not understand how it worked, and when it failed, he disassembled the whole thing and many of the parts disappeared. This involved getting parts from the UK (out of his network and comfort zone) and took a huge amount of time to get repaired. At the last moment, the cable broke too, +1 week to get from LR and replace.
7. But the real time suck here was installing the rear seatbelt. My aftermarket seatbelt just wouldn't work for him, as such he insisted because it's a safety item, on getting OEM seatbelts. I got them for cost, but still it was brutal waiting. In the end, he had to fabricate the mounting brackets because LR just could not provide anything that worked. It looks solid, and works as it's supposed to, but this literally took months to sort out!
8. Had it detailed (a mediocre job)

So in the end, I have my Found 90 on the road with a clean bill of health. I have to admit, after almost a year of build-up, the reality of driving the truck is a bit of a let-down. And that back seat is a joke. I think I'd be better of with a 110 that actually holds stuff, with the 90 you have to decide: 2 Kids, or Stuff - but not both...and no more than 2 kids.

All in all it has been a very educational process, and I still think the Defender is one of the coolest trucks on the road. I saw a guy in a D1 nearly run off the road to check the truck out, and a guy in a Jeep waved at me. These trucks are pretty rare around here!

There's plenty to do on the truck, so it's by no means done. But early spring is a tough time for a soft-top. Too late in the season to put the fiberglass top on, and not warm enough to take the top off.

I'm sure there's people to thank, and things I did to the truck that I've already forgotten, sorry. Thanks for all the advise good and bad.

Hope you've all enjoyed following the story from abandon truck to where it is today. Hopefully there's more to come!

Jerod
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  #178  
Old March 13th, 2011, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by founD90 View Post
I have to admit, after almost a year of build-up, the reality of driving the truck is a bit of a let-down. And that back seat is a joke. I think I'd be better of with a 110 that actually holds stuff, with the 90 you have to decide: 2 Kids, or Stuff - but not both...and no more than 2 kids.
Looks good...and keep in mind, I believe you got a heck of a deal on that one - and while it's true 110's are better for all the "gear" (and kids...and dogs) keep in mind that they come with a higher price tag, and ultimately if you plan to wheel it at all a shorter wheelbase is much more nimble to manuever.

Plus, let's face it...a soft-top in the summer is the best way to cruise!
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  #179  
Old March 13th, 2011, 12:09 PM
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Congratulations! It has been great watching your re-build in near real time. Great dedication to bring it from where it was when you bought it, to today! Any current plans for building it up or strictly focusing on mechanicals until it's all sorted out?

The ST will be amazing in the Summer...just you wait!
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  #180  
Old March 13th, 2011, 12:10 PM
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Looks good. I am especially impressed with your new rotors
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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