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  #41  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 10:10 AM
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Dr. Gonzo
1994 D90 #48
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Thanks for all the advise, and I'm actually surprised that so many of you guys don't think this can be worked into a serviceable truck! I agree that this truck's value as-is is around the $5-$6K range, and any more than that is not worth it. However, I'm wondering if I cleaned up some of that surface rust and made some short-term frame patches with the plan of doing the chassis somewhere in the future. Do some R&R underneath of cables, lines, rubber, etc...I could have a drivable truck.

It's never going to be a show truck, but getting it up and running shouldn't require a full restoration. I think....

Thanks again - I'll keep you posted.
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  #42  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 10:53 AM
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yes you can probably do that. the front end of the chassis will be the most fun. you might be able to buy a repair section. not sure that I have seen one available.

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Originally Posted by dogfood1 View Post
Thanks for all the advise, and I'm actually surprised that so many of you guys don't think this can be worked into a serviceable truck! I agree that this truck's value as-is is around the $5-$6K range, and any more than that is not worth it. However, I'm wondering if I cleaned up some of that surface rust and made some short-term frame patches with the plan of doing the chassis somewhere in the future. Do some R&R underneath of cables, lines, rubber, etc...I could have a drivable truck.

It's never going to be a show truck, but getting it up and running shouldn't require a full restoration. I think....

Thanks again - I'll keep you posted.
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  #43  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 10:55 AM
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Charles Galpin
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If you are willing to do the work anything is possible Just mind the safety issues and you'll be fine.
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  #44  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 11:06 AM
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who knows what kind of a can of worms it is. Every seal could be shot.
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  #45  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 11:16 AM
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Dr. Gonzo
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Who's shooting seals? And these worms you speak of...
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  #46  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 11:26 AM
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in the end, you'll either never sell this one, or never buy another :-0
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  #47  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 08:06 PM
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I have $7500 cash for it if you do not assuming it has a clear title and the full cage and not just the front part under the fiberglass top.

Ron
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  #48  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 08:54 PM
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So when did ratty NAS 90s go from $12K or so to $5K????

Around here a valid title with a truck around it will still fetch over $10K.

If anybody can point to $5K trucks with clean titles and I'll buy every one you can point me at.
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  #49  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 09:00 PM
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I agree with Mike although I know a couple that have sold under 10k.
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  #50  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 09:36 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Ok let's use this as an opportunity to play "what if". Let's make a few assumptions like the interior and cage is fine and he can easily address the rust on the cappings and other body parts, and that there are no major drivetrain issues. Assuming he does the work, what are good estimates for

1. Galvy chassis shipped to his door
2. Nice spanking new suspension - say a mild upgrade or lift
3. Disco axles from a junk yard - maybe redoing the seals and brakes
4. New hydraulics

This seems to be the kind of thin he'll need. If he gets into mechanicals he might need an engine, radiator, that sort of thing, but at some point he could just get a donor disco and swap out the whole drivetrain.

I'm guessing he could do this in his $10k budget.

Thoughts?
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  #51  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 09:51 PM
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If he can do the work himself maybe but thats a lot of stuff and a hopeful budget.
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  #52  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 09:57 PM
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There is nothing wrong with those axles other than surface rust.

D90 NAS chassis are available from $500-2k galvy used ($3300 new galvy), but he could just weld the existing frame and drive it. I would want better pics of the bulkhead, but it does not look all that bad from the pics I see. The front parts of the frame are available (or at least I have seen them for sale) as repair parts and it is not *that* bad based on the condition of the rear crossmember.

The point of buying something like this is to build your own *perfect* truck without paying for things you don't want/need and saving money on the donor. JimC's 110 was way worse than this one and he built it up.
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  #53  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 09:59 PM
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No one has said MICE. Sitting outside for 2 years they could have chewed and stuffed crap into everywhere.
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  #54  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 10:01 PM
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Charles Galpin
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The frame seems hit or miss. Doesn't look terrible in general but has some really bad rust in some odd places. The ones by the steering and suspension scare me. But yes I am sure it could be patched. I don't like seeing all that rust on the suspension parts either but likely none of it is a safety issue either - i figured he could do a bottom half rebuild and have a pretty nice truck. Paint will buff out.
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  #55  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 10:17 PM
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Dr. Gonzo
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Hey, a little bit of optimism! Great - now if only my spouse shared your new found exuberance....

Sorry for the snark.

I'm meeting tomorrow morning with a local guy who works on Land Rovers (and has restored a Series III). He might have some ideas on what needs the most attention and where to allocate resources. He might also let me store it there, but who knows.
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  #56  
Old May 3rd, 2010, 10:52 PM
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I would not go by Ron. He is optimistic, can find ways to do things Ron good that are cheaper and has most of every part in his place. You can't compare pouring money into a 110 either. They are a different animal and since there were only 500 you can justify the expense a bit more. I still think this is either perfect for someone who wants to build their own version a NAS 90 or to buy a strip apart.
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  #57  
Old May 4th, 2010, 12:43 AM
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Looks like a workable truck. Deal with the rust issues right away. I have a friend who is a LR mechanic who might be able to give you some guidance. In my last pm I gave you my number. Call me if I can be some help.
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  #58  
Old May 4th, 2010, 09:16 AM
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Chris Davis
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for 5-6K, I would do it (If I didn't already do it). Seems fun to me. 2 bits of advice. Lots of beer and don't try and remove bolts--just take a breaker bar and break all of them--you are going to replace them anyways and it will be much easier and take less time.
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  #59  
Old May 4th, 2010, 12:46 PM
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That's great advice except that not everyone knows which ones its not OK to use that method on...I've taken apart lots of rusty Land Rovers, and have used that method too. Its always better to take things apart without breakage if you can. Most sutff comes apart just fine, if it needs to break, it will. Anyway, minor point...sorry for the digression.

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for 5-6K, I would do it (If I didn't already do it). Seems fun to me. 2 bits of advice. Lots of beer and don't try and remove bolts--just take a breaker bar and break all of them--you are going to replace them anyways and it will be much easier and take less time.
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  #60  
Old May 4th, 2010, 12:48 PM
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Me and this: http://www.pbblaster.com/ and this http://www.lowes.com/pd_51056-70-DW2...7_?identifier= and I could have it apart in a few days.
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