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  #1  
Old April 7th, 2014, 10:16 PM
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Bulkhead Thread

It seems there are a number of threads on power-plants, gearboxes, t-cases, axles, cages and even body parts. But after STFA I haven't found all that much on bulkheads.

I am going thru the process of putting together a solid and clean bulkhead for my build and want to figure out if what I am putting together will be right.

Questions I have:

- what brackets are needed - what are welded, and what are bolted on?
- what is the best way to weld patch panels back in?
- what is the best finish for them? I know most everyone says galvy but what are other options that will make them last?
- any tricks or updates to make? Enlarge the heating vent holes and take off the vent grilles before galvy for example?
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  #2  
Old April 7th, 2014, 10:19 PM
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So I have 2 bulkheads (and the one that is in the blue 110). The first one I bought was a NAS 110 bulkhead. Decent shape but it needed floors and sides. Those were easily sourced from YRM/ATL Cruisers. The problem is, when I bought the repair panels I had planned to keep this rig RHD. I noticed the footwells were double metal so I will make a cover for the pedals on the right side. The driver's upper footwheel is good so I will just use the lower section of the YRM piece.

The 2nd one I just got - a ROW 110 LHD. I was hoping this one would just need a couple of patch redo's and it would be ready for galvy. The reason I got this second one is the NAS 110 bulkhead didn't have the vent cutouts and I was worried I would be spending too much time and money to make vents for it. The problem is the ROW bulkhead has crazy rust on the top where the windshield frame rested on. I am still not sure how I am going to fix it and will be asking for ideas on it at some point.

The pics are where I am at so far on the NAS 110. I am hoping I can get this bulkhead back up to snuff and sell on to someone that doesn't need vent hole/grilles. Or if I cannot fix the ROW bulkhead I'll take the vent pieces off of that and chalk the loss as a learning lesson.

One thing I have learned that it might be the easiest to find the spot welds and drill them out to take out the old panels. And then use those holes to weld the new panel to the old bulkhead. An it seems that is the only way to attach along the seams where the rubber weatherstripping goes. So far the right side has been tough work. Hopefully the driver's side will be a little easier.
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  #3  
Old April 7th, 2014, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
It seems there are a number of threads on power-plants, gearboxes, t-cases, axles, cages and even body parts. But after STFA I haven't found all that much on bulkheads.

I am going thru the process of putting together a solid and clean bulkhead for my build and want to figure out if what I am putting together will be right.

Questions I have:

- what brackets are needed - what are welded, and what are bolted on?
- what is the best way to weld patch panels back in?
- what is the best finish for them? I know most everyone says galvy but what are other options that will make them last?
- any tricks or updates to make? Enlarge the heating vent holes and take off the vent grilles before galvy for example?
repairs depend on your bulkhead. How bad is it ? Is the bracket that the inner fender well bolts to still there in decent shape ? As far as tips go one of the best write up's was Dave Lucas's build thread. He tried several different things on his bulkhead. I asked about the things he tried with the guys I have been using for galvanizing and they agree the things he did are the best for keeping zinc out of threaded holes. Some swear by building a frame to hold the bulkhead so it doesn't warp.
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  #4  
Old April 7th, 2014, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
repairs depend on your bulkhead. How bad is it ? Is the bracket that the inner fender well bolts to still there in decent shape ? As far as tips go one of the best write up's was Dave Lucas's build thread. He tried several different things on his bulkhead. I asked about the things he tried with the guys I have been using for galvanizing and they agree the things he did are the best for keeping zinc out of threaded holes. Some swear by building a frame to hold the bulkhead so it doesn't warp.
So I did some searching on Dave's screen name and found these 2 threads that help me a bit:

3 brackets needed:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=27497

How to fit TD5 dash:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=21689

This answered a question I had with the 2 bulkheads in my garage. The new one has the Td5 style bracket while the NAS110 has the old style dash tabs.

ECR Mike's post has me thinking of another "might as well mod" - updated wiper drives.

To answer your question "how bad?"

- NAS 110 bulkhead - already media blasted - seems solid but like I said needs footwell work. I have one side prepped and now need to weld it together. The driver's side seems a little better. It has some surface rust so if I galvy it, I would have to do a bunch of cleanup. My other thought was POR-15 and then waxoyl the hell out of the inside.

- ROW 110 bulkhead - has some crappy patchwork done but is all there. The tough work will be the top. I am almost thinking of just cutting it out and fabricating a new piece. There could be more demons under some of the paint/dirt.

I am going to clamp the bottom to a straight edge piece of channel iron to try and keep things straight.
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Old April 7th, 2014, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
So I did some searching on Dave's screen name and found these 2 threads that help me a bit:

3 brackets needed:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=27497

How to fit TD5 dash:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=21689

This answered a question I had with the 2 bulkheads in my garage. The new one has the Td5 style bracket while the NAS110 has the old style dash tabs.

ECR Mike's post has me thinking of another "might as well mod" - updated wiper drives.

To answer your question "how bad?"

- NAS 110 bulkhead - already media blasted - seems solid but like I said needs footwell work. I have one side prepped and now need to weld it together. The driver's side seems a little better. It has some surface rust so if I galvy it, I would have to do a bunch of cleanup. My other thought was POR-15 and then waxoyl the hell out of the inside.

- ROW 110 bulkhead - has some crappy patchwork done but is all there. The tough work will be the top. I am almost thinking of just cutting it out and fabricating a new piece. There could be more demons under some of the paint/dirt.

I am going to clamp the bottom to a straight edge piece of channel iron to try and keep things straight.
Daves galvanizing thread was the one
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  #6  
Old April 8th, 2014, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Daves galvanizing thread was the one
I can't find it for anything - searched bulkhead, galvanized, galvanizing. If anyone has any ideas on it, please lmk.

So the ROW bulkhead (I figured out from the reading of the Dave's other thread) is a TD5. Has the oval holes for the wipers and the different brackets.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 02:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
I can't find it for anything - searched bulkhead, galvanized, galvanizing. If anyone has any ideas on it, please lmk.

So the ROW bulkhead (I figured out from the reading of the Dave's other thread) is a TD5. Has the oval holes for the wipers and the different brackets.
I'm pretty sure those posts were in his rebuild thread, which doesn't seem to be up anmore.

Regarding your question about installing the new footwell, when I replaced one of my footwells I removed it by drilling out all of the spot welds (there are a lot). I can't remember exactly why but I also temporarily cut out a small chunk of metal on the upper innermost corner of the right footwell, either because I couldn't get the old panel out or the new one in with the corner being in the way. Anyway, you might be able to tell from this picture what I'm talking about, you can see the weld from when I put it back in place. When I installed the new panel, I welded all of the spot weld holes and I welded around the edges of most of the footwell where it overlaps with other panels. You can use your best judgement on what you should weld and what you can leave alone. You can see from my "after" pic that it came out pretty good, but you can tell the footwell was replaced. It was a solid repair though.
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  #8  
Old April 8th, 2014, 09:06 AM
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I haven't seen a true bulkhead ever. It's a landrover afterall. I repaired my old IIA 88" bulkhead. That process was sandblasting, metal repair and galvanizing. The concern at the galv plant was warping but it didn't happen. Threads are not really an issue besides there isn't anything you could put in those holes that wouldn't burn, melt or become permenantly fixed in the galvy process. The surface rust isn't a problem either. Rust, paint, grease and sealants don't stand a chance against the high temp acid bath and molten zinc. I'm picking up my bulkhead, m101cdn trailer/parts and chopped down 88" roof frame from Steve at Commonwealth Galvanizing on Thursday. I hope my cost is comparable to the deal Uncle Dougie got with his Sankey dip.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezzzzzzz View Post
I haven't seen a true bulkhead ever. It's a landrover afterall. I repaired my old IIA 88" bulkhead. That process was sandblasting, metal repair and galvanizing. The concern at the galv plant was warping but it didn't happen. Threads are not really an issue besides there isn't anything you could put in those holes that wouldn't burn, melt or become permenantly fixed in the galvy process. The surface rust isn't a problem either. Rust, paint, grease and sealants don't stand a chance against the high temp acid bath and molten zinc. I'm picking up my bulkhead, m101cdn trailer/parts and chopped down 88" roof frame from Steve at Commonwealth Galvanizing on Thursday. I hope my cost is comparable to the deal Uncle Dougie got with his Sankey dip.
Should be, they go by weight.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 09:47 AM
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Surface Preparation for Galvanized Steel To Be Painted:

http://www.galvanizeit.org/images/up...PCL_062005.pdf
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #11  
Old April 8th, 2014, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macker View Post
I'm pretty sure those posts were in his rebuild thread, which doesn't seem to be up anmore. Regarding your question about installing the new footwell, when I replaced one of my footwells I removed it by drilling out all of the spot welds (there are a lot). I can't remember exactly why but I also temporarily cut out a small chunk of metal on the upper innermost corner of the right footwell, either because I couldn't get the old panel out or the new one in with the corner being in the way. Anyway, you might be able to tell from this picture what I'm talking about, you can see the weld from when I put it back in place. When I installed the new panel, I welded all of the spot weld holes and I welded around the edges of most of the footwell where it overlaps with other panels. You can use your best judgement on what you should weld and what you can leave alone. You can see from my "after" pic that it came out pretty good, but you can tell the footwell was replaced. It was a solid repair though.
Thanks Macker - that looks a lot like the job I am in the process of doing. Although I should have drilled more of those spot welds out. Definitely looks solid! Like the end result - what finish did you go with?

------ Follow up post added April 8th, 2014 09:56 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezzzzzzz View Post
I haven't seen a true bulkhead ever. It's a landrover afterall. I repaired my old IIA 88" bulkhead. That process was sandblasting, metal repair and galvanizing. The concern at the galv plant was warping but it didn't happen. Threads are not really an issue besides there isn't anything you could put in those holes that wouldn't burn, melt or become permenantly fixed in the galvy process. The surface rust isn't a problem either. Rust, paint, grease and sealants don't stand a chance against the high temp acid bath and molten zinc. I'm picking up my bulkhead, m101cdn trailer/parts and chopped down 88" roof frame from Steve at Commonwealth Galvanizing on Thursday. I hope my cost is comparable to the deal Uncle Dougie got with his Sankey dip.
Haha - on the true statement. Good point on the heat the head will see at the galvy dip. That could move things around a bit especially on the thin areas. Good to know about the surface rust - I have a bunch on the one bulkhead but will try and smooth the sandblasted metal as someone said the galvy will show it.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 12:26 PM
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Found this last night - how to make a TD5 bulkhead work with Tdi parts: http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=27524

Td5 Wiper Wheel Box Part Numbers I found: DKU000010 & DKU500010
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Old April 8th, 2014, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by don View Post
Thanks Macker - that looks a lot like the job I am in the process of doing. Although I should have drilled more of those spot welds out. Definitely looks solid! Like the end result - what finish did you go with?
I had it powder coated. It was about $125 for blast and Powdercoat and a sandblasting shop wanted about that much to blast it. I eventually had it painted santorini black when I swapped in some new panels and painted it. If I were to do it again I would probably just galvanize it.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 12:40 PM
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I had it powder coated. It was about $125 for blast and Powdercoat and a sandblasting shop wanted about that much to blast it. I eventually had it painted santorini black when I swapped in some new panels and painted it. If I were to do it again I would probably just galvanize it.
I am leaning toward galvy on these 2 bulkheads. There is a place semi-local - just need to figure a price.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 01:17 PM
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I am leaning toward galvy on these 2 bulkheads. There is a place semi-local - just need to figure a price.
Don I talked with the sales guys at Voigt & Schweitzer LLC in Taunton recently; I forgot pricing but it was reasonable
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Old April 8th, 2014, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Jtomchik View Post
Don I talked with the sales guys at Voigt & Schweitzer LLC in Taunton recently; I forgot pricing but it was reasonable
Thanks - I still need to do a lot of fab work but might make some calls soon to see what I should budget.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 01:35 PM
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Don, I going to galv place soon and pm me if you want to come with me. It's local to you and $30 toll for me. Ouch! Here's my new bulkhead ready to be blasted!

Sal
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Old April 8th, 2014, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
I am leaning toward galvy on these 2 bulkheads. There is a place semi-local - just need to figure a price.
I used V&S in the heart of Philadelphia for my chopped D90 chassis galvy dip. They were accomodating and somewhat reasonable ($400) at the time (about 5 years ago). I met them at the gate when they opened, dropped off the chassis and picked it up at lunch for the trip back home. Years before that, I'd used Virginia Galvanizing on two occasions. The first trip was good and cost effective. The second trip the owner suddenly jacked the price x10! He finally relented to x4 and told not to come back unless I was willing to pay the x10 for automotive parts. I told him not to hold his breath.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 03:14 PM
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Sal, where are you going for galv? When?

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Old April 8th, 2014, 03:22 PM
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There is a big galvy shop near Newark airport. I talked to them and prices seemed Ron cheap.

http://www.newjerseygalvanizing.com/
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