Bulkhead Thread - Page 4 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #61  
Old June 25th, 2014, 11:17 PM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,271
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
It was V&S. Everything we brought is well sandblasted, or new with no paint.
Let me know when you get yours back. I know it was just last week but I am itching to get mine!
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #62  
Old June 26th, 2014, 11:06 PM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,271
Registry
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3383315430.jpg
Views:	121
Size:	477.2 KB
ID:	97665

Got the original piece for the dash started on the patch/reinforced section. This is the top view.

Click image for larger version

Name:	image-41838717.jpg
Views:	125
Size:	429.4 KB
ID:	97664
This is the view from from behind looking up. So far it feels really solid and I only have a 1/3 of the piece welded on. Things are lined up better than how I got it and even tho my welds are looking sloppy, it is way better than the mig turds that were on there.

I have to figure out a way to fix the 3 gussets. But anything I do will be better than how they were just cracked apart and hammered flat.

I am going to flap disk the front side so there are no bumps but leave the beads on the back. The one small section I ground looks pretty seamless.
Reply With Quote
  #63  
Old June 28th, 2014, 08:33 AM
flananuts
Status: Offline
Matthew
LRC Customs #003 D110 Soft Top
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Jersery Shore
Posts: 670
Registry
Don, I've decided that when I get the truck painted, this piece of rover chrome will have to stay chrometastic. Looking good.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #64  
Old June 28th, 2014, 10:25 AM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,271
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by flananuts View Post
Don, I've decided that when I get the truck painted, this piece of rover chrome will have to stay chrometastic. Looking good.
Thanks - I took the flap disk to that one section and it looks good. I think once it is all done and galvy'd and installed you won't even know there was a repair. Show your Rover chrome!
Reply With Quote
  #65  
Old July 2nd, 2014, 09:03 PM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,271
Registry
Got the NAS110 bulkhead back from V&S today. Bill was for $240. I thought it might be lower but not out of line for one piece. I need to bend some pieces back and clean up some areas. Not too bad save for a section along the windscreen seam. Not sure what happened as it looks like it just folded in on itself.

I ordered M12x180 bolts from McMaster Carr today. The only had grade 8.8 and SS so I got both. Not sure what you guys think of using stainless bolts in that area but the tensile strength according to McMaster's specs was 116,000 psi minimal for the grade 8.8 and 100,000 psi minimal for the stainless.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	photo (2).jpg
Views:	92
Size:	71.0 KB
ID:	97991   Click image for larger version

Name:	photo (4).jpg
Views:	100
Size:	105.2 KB
ID:	97992  

Reply With Quote
  #66  
Old July 2nd, 2014, 10:00 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Got the NAS110 bulkhead back from V&S today. Bill was for $240. I thought it might be lower but not out of line for one piece. I need to bend some pieces back and clean up some areas. Not too bad save for a section along the windscreen seam. Not sure what happened as it looks like it just folded in on itself. I ordered M12x180 bolts from McMaster Carr today. The only had grade 8.8 and SS so I got both. Not sure what you guys think of using stainless bolts in that area but the tensile strength according to McMaster's specs was 116,000 psi minimal for the grade 8.8 and 100,000 psi minimal for the stainless.
Just slather a ton of anti-sieze on the shafts of the bolts. Those guys always sieze.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #67  
Old July 2nd, 2014, 10:04 PM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,271
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Just slather a ton of anti-sieze on the shafts of the bolts. Those guys always sieze.
Definitely! was going to put a ton of anti-seize on them on install. Those are just temp bolts - not long enough. Was wondering if the stainless ones would be strong enough - kind of leaning towards the 8.8 steels with a lot of grease.
Reply With Quote
  #68  
Old July 2nd, 2014, 10:22 PM
grnrvrs's Avatar
grnrvrs
Status: Offline
Paul
88
Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: west
Posts: 1,393
Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Kind of leaning towards the 8.8 steels with a lot of grease.
Had the same dilemma. Went with the 8.8 and slathered them in anti-sieze. So far, so good.
__________________
1970 SIIA 88, Sold
Reply With Quote
  #69  
Old July 2nd, 2014, 10:49 PM
Mybluett's Avatar
Mybluett
Status: Offline
Defenders Northwest
110SW
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 2,007
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
The main 2 bolts that mount the bulkhead to the outrigger? Shear strength is what matters in those.

-Jeff
And elasticity... - you want flex/deformation instead of brittleness as the bulkhead has both vertical and horizontal force applied to the hardware. Better to bugger the hardware with movement than have the bulkhead/chassis weaken from flex - or the bolts shear from a stress fracture. The sill rails take up some of the horizontal forces, the roof/windshield/floors absorb some of the vertical forces. In this instance I usually default to the OEM LR part as they are specified for the implied forces, though the 8.8 is a fine substitute - just clear coat or paint and apply anti-seize...
Reply With Quote
  #70  
Old July 2nd, 2014, 11:04 PM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,271
Registry
Thanks Jeff, grnrvrs, and MyBlueTT - will do the 8.8's for sure.
Reply With Quote
  #71  
Old July 4th, 2014, 09:31 AM
flananuts
Status: Offline
Matthew
LRC Customs #003 D110 Soft Top
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Jersery Shore
Posts: 670
Registry
Don, must be nice to get back to progress on your 110 build. Looking forward to checking it out
Reply With Quote
  #72  
Old July 4th, 2014, 12:00 PM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,271
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by flananuts View Post
Don, must be nice to get back to progress on your 110 build. Looking forward to checking it out
Felt good to put it on! Gives the chassis some more dimension and me some motivation to get things moving along.

I am around today if you want to swing thru. I am about half way on that Td5 bulkhead and you can see in person what the galvy looks like.

BTW, getting the 2nd bolt on the bulkhead was a bit of a challenge. I read in LRM to bevel the end of an old bolt so it will self line up. It made sense when I read it but when executed the bulkhead would "snap" back as soon as the final bolt was hammered to the bulkhead/frame point.

I found a piece of 4x4 and cut it down to fit between the frame and bulkhead. Used some metal items I had around to keep the bulkhead in the correct position vertically and a clamp to keep the bulkhead from getting pulled back. Then grabbed a pry bar and got the bulkhead out enough for the M12 to go thru easy enough. (after using a bunch of grey anti-seize on it)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	bulkhead_3.jpg
Views:	104
Size:	90.5 KB
ID:	98062  
Reply With Quote
  #73  
Old July 9th, 2014, 03:42 PM
Wilboro's Avatar
Wilboro
Status: Offline
William Ficner
1997 110 csw
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 688
Registry
Hope you don't mind me piggybacking on this thread but I was also having trouble finding the bulkhead info I was looking for by searching.

So my bulkhead is starting to show the first signs of a bit of rust so I want to remove it strip it, repair it and galvanize it.

I would also like to minimize the time the vehicle off the road so I'm hoping I can Pull the wings, floor panels, doors, dash etc and lift it out. I'm assuming this is doable?

If anyone knows of any threads with photos etc of this removal being done it would be great if you could direct me to it I know they must be out there.

Any tips or suggestions would also be appreciated.

Will
Reply With Quote
  #74  
Old July 9th, 2014, 03:43 PM
defender1844
Status: Online
Amit Likhyani
95 D90 Soft Top Estoril Blue 6.2 LS
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 574
I couldn't find it either. Thanks for asking.
Reply With Quote
  #75  
Old July 9th, 2014, 03:49 PM
Mybluett's Avatar
Mybluett
Status: Offline
Defenders Northwest
110SW
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 2,007
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
I would also like to minimize the time the vehicle off the road so I'm hoping I can Pull the wings, floor panels, doors, dash etc and lift it out. I'm assuming this is doable?
Yes its easy enough to do it this way.

Pull the bonnet, grille, wings, doors, floors, tunnel cover, unbolt the roof & raise it slightly, remove windshield, disconnect steering, disconnect cables, disconnect wiring, using straps with hooks in lower bulkhead feet and links bolted to upper door holes support bulkhead with crane or hoist from above, unbolt main bolts and secondary supports. Lift high and roll the truck away from the bulkhead, mount bulkhead to a jig or support and disassemble remaining dash/steering, pedal boxes, etc…
Reply With Quote
  #76  
Old July 9th, 2014, 07:29 PM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,271
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
Hope you don't mind me piggybacking on this thread but I was also having trouble finding the bulkhead info I was looking for by searching. Will
Will - I started this thread as a depository for bulkhead info. I couldn't find all that much myself. I bet a lot of people would be doing just what you are - remove/repair/replace an existing bulkhead.

Please post pics if you can - I printed out a bunch and keep them in my garage for references. But will need to find more when I start putting items back on mine.
Reply With Quote
  #77  
Old July 9th, 2014, 08:13 PM
cbfritz_03
Status: Offline
Carmen
none
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: TX
Posts: 1,520
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
Hope you don't mind me piggybacking on this thread but I was also having trouble finding the bulkhead info I was looking for by searching.

So my bulkhead is starting to show the first signs of a bit of rust so I want to remove it strip it, repair it and galvanize it.

I would also like to minimize the time the vehicle off the road so I'm hoping I can Pull the wings, floor panels, doors, dash etc and lift it out. I'm assuming this is doable?

If anyone knows of any threads with photos etc of this removal being done it would be great if you could direct me to it I know they must be out there.

Any tips or suggestions would also be appreciated.

Will
Quote:
Originally Posted by defender1844 View Post
I couldn't find it either. Thanks for asking.
I documented a little something on the bulkhead removal on my build thread. There are a few pictures on posts #46 and #49. I've never removed one before either.

The advice I give is to take pictures or notes, tape or bag the pieces or bolts for an easier time when you go to reassemble. The bolts holding the wings to the bulkhead (on the inside) are a little hard to get to.
You will need an extension spanner.

Also, there are three bolts holding the bulkhead to the frame/rails; two smaller and one large. You might need a flash light to see.
If any of the bolts are too rusty; spray them and wait a few hours or over night and they will come out.

In my google searching beforehand I found a few things:


or Google "Landrover Defender bulkhead removal" and/or "PhilSheredan" ..he has a few short videos that were helpful to me. Good luck!
Reply With Quote
  #78  
Old July 9th, 2014, 08:26 PM
cbfritz_03
Status: Offline
Carmen
none
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: TX
Posts: 1,520
Quote:
Originally Posted by defender1844 View Post
I couldn't find it either. Thanks for asking.
When you get going on yours and if you need an extra hand - let me know. I'd be glad to help
Reply With Quote
  #79  
Old July 9th, 2014, 11:36 PM
Wilboro's Avatar
Wilboro
Status: Offline
William Ficner
1997 110 csw
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 688
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Will - I started this thread as a depository for bulkhead info. I couldn't find all that much myself. I bet a lot of people would be doing just what you are - remove/repair/replace an existing bulkhead.

Please post pics if you can - I printed out a bunch and keep them in my garage for references. But will need to find more when I start putting items back on mine.
I'm going give this a go in two weeks and try to do it all as fast a possible, I have a load of other bits to go to galvanizing and the bulkhead is the last piece. Hopefully it doesn't require too much welding...but I know once it comes off there will be surprises.

I will document the process and post here as I go along.

I'm currently trying to create a master list of all the seals, grommets, bolts, nuts etc that will need to be replaced so I have it all ready for re-assembly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cbfritz_03 View Post
I documented a little something on the bulkhead removal on my build thread. There are a few pictures on posts #46 and #49. I've never removed one before either.

The advice I give is to take pictures or notes, tape or bag the pieces or bolts for an easier time when you go to reassemble. The bolts holding the wings to the bulkhead (on the inside) are a little hard to get to.
You will need an extension spanner.

Also, there are three bolts holding the bulkhead to the frame/rails; two smaller and one large. You might need a flash light to see.
If any of the bolts are too rusty; spray them and wait a few hours or over night and they will come out.

In my google searching beforehand I found a few things:


or Google "Landrover Defender bulkhead removal" and/or "PhilSheredan" ..he has a few short videos that were helpful to me. Good luck!
Just watched all the PhilSheredan vids, some good tips in there. Had a look at your thread too nice project! The more I see the better.

I have taken a bulkhead out of my last project but the truck was stripped of everything before the bulkhead came off, the wiring harness wasn't saved etc etc so this is a whole new ball game!
Reply With Quote
  #80  
Old July 9th, 2014, 11:50 PM
don's Avatar
don
Status: Offline
Don Bunnell
'86 110 3dr ST
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rumson, NJ
Posts: 4,271
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
I will document the process and post here as I go along. I'm currently trying to create a master list of all the seals, grommets, bolts, nuts etc that will need to be replaced so I have it all ready for re-assembly.
That would be awesome and I am sure a lot of people would benefit from it. Thanks!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:17 PM.


Copyright