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  #21  
Old April 8th, 2014, 03:42 PM
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Joshua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
There is a big galvy shop near Newark airport. I talked to them and prices seemed Ron cheap.

http://www.newjerseygalvanizing.com/
If that's the place near the Prudential Center we've spoken about before, other members have at least used them before with good results.
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #22  
Old April 8th, 2014, 07:58 PM
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I dipped both new and used.
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RIP 1994 D90 #999 (engine fire 2002). We'll miss you.
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  #23  
Old April 8th, 2014, 08:29 PM
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So is it best to blast the paint off a used bulkhead to reveal any hidden problem spots pre-dipping? Or would a chemical strip be better?
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  #24  
Old April 8th, 2014, 08:33 PM
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Chemical strip worked for me
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  #25  
Old April 8th, 2014, 08:33 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budzny View Post
Don, I going to galv place soon and pm me if you want to come with me. It's local to you and $30 toll for me. Ouch! Here's my new bulkhead ready to be blasted!

Sal

Sal - I have serious envy on that bulkhead - there is a part of me that is kicking myself for not just ponying up for a really nice one. But the thing with metal fab is once the prep work is done the welding part is kinda nice. Plus you can never get too much torch time.


What place are you going for galvy? I am going to talk to Bossman about V&S in P. Amboy. And check out the place in Newark too.

------ Follow up post added April 8th, 2014 08:35 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezzzzzzz View Post
I used V&S in the heart of Philadelphia for my chopped D90 chassis galvy dip. They were accomodating and somewhat reasonable ($400) at the time (about 5 years ago). I met them at the gate when they opened, dropped off the chassis and picked it up at lunch for the trip back home. Years before that, I'd used Virginia Galvanizing on two occasions. The first trip was good and cost effective. The second trip the owner suddenly jacked the price x10! He finally relented to x4 and told not to come back unless I was willing to pay the x10 for automotive parts. I told him not to hold his breath.

Damn - crazy story about Virginia Galvanizing.


V&S has a place in Perth Amboy which isn't that far from me.

------ Follow up post added April 8th, 2014 08:36 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
There is a big galvy shop near Newark airport. I talked to them and prices seemed Ron cheap.

http://www.newjerseygalvanizing.com/

and is their dip Ron good or better? :D

------ Follow up post added April 8th, 2014 08:37 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
I dipped both new and used.


Nice! Do you mind saying how much the 2 bulkheads cost to get done? They indeed look like Rover chrome!
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  #26  
Old April 24th, 2014, 07:35 PM
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Wanted to show some updates on the 110 NAS bulkhead I have been working on. I got some screen from someone on the forum so I might just convert this to vents and then refurbish the TD5 bulkhead I have and sell that.



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I am going to put a patch over the RH side pedal cut outs. It's been a bear and a lot of work but the right side feels really solid. I have also welded up some loose/rattle pieces as well. I am hoping I can get this done next week and get this som-bitch to galvy by first week of May.
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  #27  
Old April 24th, 2014, 09:24 PM
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Somebody ought to sell an e-book solely about D90 bulkhead repair and restoration, with highly detailed drawings and photos, and step by step instructions. Will probably sell like hotcakes. I've been searching for a good write-up or Youtube video somewhere. Everyone just says "weld in new panels," ta-da, and all you see is the finished result. There are brackets to re-attach or fabricate from sheet metal, spot welds, etc.

(The preceding thread has been very useful, though)
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  #28  
Old April 25th, 2014, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptMidnite View Post
Somebody ought to sell an e-book solely about D90 bulkhead repair and restoration, with highly detailed drawings and photos, and step by step instructions. Will probably sell like hotcakes. I've been searching for a good write-up or Youtube video somewhere. Everyone just says "weld in new panels," ta-da, and all you see is the finished result. There are brackets to re-attach or fabricate from sheet metal, spot welds, etc. (The preceding thread has been very useful, though)
I was hoping to document my bulkhead refurb in this thread as best I can. I am certainly a beginner but learning as I go along. If there is any particular shot you want I will take pics of it. Like you said - there isn't a whole lot out there info wise on them.
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  #29  
Old April 25th, 2014, 12:50 AM
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I'm glad you are doing this Don because I am going to be getting a better idea of what condition mine is in pretty quick. I'm learning as I go and I appreciate you documenting your experience. Thanks a lot.
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  #30  
Old April 25th, 2014, 12:54 AM
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Since we're on the subject, how would you "disassemble" something like this (see pic), including the footwell panels and brace?

Do the various seams just fall apart after you drill out the spot welds?

Or is it more about cutting with a cutoff wheel on a grinder or Dremel and saving as much metal as you can?

I notice you were able to remove the curved bulkhead brace thing. Were you able to re-use it?

The footwell is double paneled. Can the two panels be separated?

This year I'm just cleaning up rust and touching up, but anticipate doing a full repair next year.
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  #31  
Old April 25th, 2014, 12:57 AM
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Sorry for wrong-ways pic.
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  #32  
Old April 25th, 2014, 12:33 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Looking at mine - it seems if you can find the spot welds it should come off pretty straight forward. But why are you removing? From the picture the metal seems mostly solid. Maybe just POR-15 it? Or if the metal is rotten - cut the bad stuff and weld a patch to it. The spot weld/seams on theses bulkheads (or at least mine) seem to be where rust occurs.
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  #33  
Old May 29th, 2014, 09:33 AM
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Yes, I have been still messing with this bulkhead. It seems every time I get one thing done there is still 10 more things to do. I don't even want to guess home many hours of fab work I have into it. It has pretty much stalled my project as I need to get this to galvy as a next step.

Anyway - here are some pics of the LHS footwell. The upper parts seemed pretty solid so I kept that in place with the cut outs and just used the lower piece and butt welded the seam along the one corner.

Welding the YRM panels have been great. Welding the stock Rover metal has sucked. I am not sure what they used in their metal but it's been hard work. Granted my TIG skills aren't all that and the weird angles and nooks make it hard to get a good torch placement but lots of rod has been used and grinding has been going on. I had to make a patch to reinforce one corner as the Rover metal just got too thin.

Why didn't Rover make these a little thicker/beefier from the factory? Or at least design them not to hold moisture?
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  #34  
Old May 29th, 2014, 09:35 AM
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Forgot to add. I have found that extended Vise-Grips and copper plate have made things a lot easier.
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  #35  
Old May 29th, 2014, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don View Post
Yes, I have been still messing with this bulkhead. It seems every time I get one thing done there is still 10 more things to do. I don't even want to guess home many hours of fab work I have into it. It has pretty much stalled my project as I need to get this to galvy as a next step.

Anyway - here are some pics of the LHS footwell. The upper parts seemed pretty solid so I kept that in place with the cut outs and just used the lower piece and butt welded the seam along the one corner.

Welding the YRM panels have been great. Welding the stock Rover metal has sucked. I am not sure what they used in their metal but it's been hard work. Granted my TIG skills aren't all that and the weird angles and nooks make it hard to get a good torch placement but lots of rod has been used and grinding has been going on. I had to make a patch to reinforce one corner as the Rover metal just got too thin.

Why didn't Rover make these a little thicker/beefier from the factory? Or at least design them not to hold moisture?
Good work Don! I admire that you are doing the welding yourself. The next one you do should be a breeze lol I was also surprised at how thin and lightweight the bulkhead material is. When it is all bolted in, it feels solid as a rock and heavy. I thought about asking for help when it was time to lift it out. When I took it apart and was able to lift it with with one hand, I was 'what tha'?! Yes, it would be nice if the vehicles came out of the factory thicker gauge and completely galvanized. Dare to dream
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  #36  
Old May 29th, 2014, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbfritz_03 View Post
Good work Don! I admire that you are doing the welding yourself. The next one you do should be a breeze lol I was also surprised at how thin and lightweight the bulkhead material is. When it is all bolted in, it feels solid as a rock and heavy. I thought about asking for help when it was time to lift it out. When I took it apart and was able to lift it with with one hand, I was 'what tha'?! Yes, it would be nice if the vehicles came out of the factory thicker gauge and completely galvanized. Dare to dream
Thanks!

This bulkhead feels solid - maybe the YRM panels stiffened it up?

On a side note - I got my TD5 bulkhead back from the strippers. Doesn't look as horrible as I thought - or maybe I am looking at things differently now from patching this '93 NAS one for so long I am not as picky. I am going to do a little test work on the TD5 one tomorrow and if it goes well maybe I will finish that first and send to galvy. Will show some pics as I work on it.
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  #37  
Old June 1st, 2014, 01:51 PM
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Cool You're doing great.
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  #38  
Old June 9th, 2014, 01:57 PM
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Still working on this damn thing....

Got some pieces in from Urban/YRM. Those little bracket pieces to hold the front fenderwells. TIG'd those all the way around.

Also, filled in the holes that were left over from the RHD panels. I still need to grind and D/A the insides part of the foot panels.

There were a couple of dents on the pillars where the doors hang. I just laid bead and brought up the material. Looking back I probably should have just cut a piece of sheet and did a patch instead.

And have one of the vent openings pretty much done. Getting the lip on it is hard! Not perfect but I am hoping with galvy coat, the screen, the seal and the vent cover no one will know it was not a vented bulkhead save for me.

Hoping to have this thing to the galvy place on Wednesday.
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  #39  
Old June 9th, 2014, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Be aware that all of your welds (even if ground flush) will telegraph trough the galvanizing.

-Jeff

What do you mean by telegraph? The only thing I could find on this page (http://www.galvanizeit.org/design-an...ing-before-hdg) is that rod high in silicon will cause discoloration. I am using ER-70-2 which seems to have lower silicon levels.

Add on: I just saw the pic. That doesn't bother me too much. As the majority of the work I did will be covered up. Looking back at all the work this bulkhead needed for me to use, it should have been scrapped. The welds will just be reminders to me. And if it starts driving me batty I'll get the exterior/exposed areas painted to match the rest of the panels.
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  #40  
Old June 9th, 2014, 02:45 PM
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Yep. Those welds standing proud through the galvanizing will totally distract one from the myriad of spot welds and rivets all over the rest of these tonka toys.
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