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  #1  
Old April 19th, 2013, 11:51 AM
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John Crouse
'93 NAS D110 (#8) / '61 Series II
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Bulkhead Swap

So my original plan was to swap the frame and bulkhead on my 110 at the same time. That isn't going to be possible for a number of reasons. So I'm going to have to do the bulkhead first. Not my prefered path, but that's where I'm at.

My question is this. In order to minimize the downtime of my truck, what prework to the replacement bulkhead do you recommend? (It will be galvanized and painted) I can't afford to build it up completely with new parts, but what makes sense? What key parts won't be reusable? Anything that should be replaced regardless of condition while it is apart?
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  #2  
Old April 19th, 2013, 11:57 AM
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Big rivnuts for steering and heater mount. Small rivnut for dash mount. All the small plastic plugs. New big bolts through frame. Bulkhead to fender bolts if rusty. Clean out galvanizing holes and square them off. Brake and clutch pedal gaskets. Windscreen to bulkhead gasket. Assortments of stainless steel screws. M5 bolts for bulkhead (not common to find and annoying size). Stud plates from bulkhead to sills (these are usually bad in my experience).
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Old April 19th, 2013, 12:07 PM
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John Crouse
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No I have an OEM replacement for the NAS D110.
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Old April 19th, 2013, 12:08 PM
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John
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as above, but clean/ retap the rivnuts before painting, see bill's post on using map gas torch, it is hella getting a 8mm tap stuck in a rivnut afterwards. ask me how I know.

For the seals of the brake/clutch peddle boxes and steering bracket, go to our local Biglots/Homedepot and get a roll of the foam diamond tread worshop mat, its about $16 you well have enough to do the load bed of the tub and some for the floor in front of your work bench. As one seal from a Rover dealer is the same price as the whole roll.

Just my 2 pence worth
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