Bulkhead repair VS replace - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 1st, 2012, 09:28 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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Bulkhead repair VS replace

Getting along with the repairs needed to get my 110 where I want it, the next move it some rust/ corrosion repair. Along with replacing a couple of the doors and repairing the other ones that are not to far gone I have some rust on the bulkhead corners(the parts they sell the repair pieces for). The question for those of you who have made these repairs is if you had to do it again, or have done it again, would you just replaced the bulkhead with a new one? Which task involves more work? Besides the corners there is no other rust. I was thinking of cutting just below the bonnet gutter and replacing the whole top section if that makes sense. Also the kick panel below the rear seat, the transition from the tub floor to the rear foot well where the seats bolts on, is corroded pretty bad at the spots where it bolts to the frame. Is there a clean way to cut that out and replace a section of that or do i need to do the whole tub?

Thank for any advice, J
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  #2  
Old May 2nd, 2012, 07:01 AM
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Mike
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When I rebuilt the 110 DC I replaced the bulkhead and changed over to LHD. I ended up selling the old bulkhead that seems like it was a little worse than yours but certainly repairable. Your truck will bring more money, if you sell itdown the road, if you replace the bulkhead. On my current build I have done the same thing but have Galvanized the new bulkhead.
I too had the same corrosion at that mid bulkhead. I ended up repairing it using a large back-plate and industrial auto glue. The other option was to use a new piece of aluminum to overlay the whole section. If you use trim, carpet it would hide the repair.
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 01:59 PM
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Andrew Clarke
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I'm sort of in the same position as you, except I live in Canada where the roads are salted so I imagine my bulkhead is in worse shape.

I've never pulled a bulkhead before, so I'm only going on what I've read. I've read though that it's hard to tell how much rust is in the bulkhead until you strip it down and look at it, as it could be rusting inside and you won't know how extensive the rust from looking at the bulkhead in situ.

I'm planning on pulling mine and replacing it with a galvanized bulkhead. I'm pretty sure mine's badly gone, so I'm not going to bother trying to repair it. I don't want to make the assumption that it's repairable, get it out, and find that I have to wait 4-8 weeks for a replacement bulkhead to arrive. I'd like to just have the old one and new one there, pull the old one, switch everything over, and then install the new one. As I've never done this before it seems like a daunting task but I am sure I'll figure it out eventually.

As MC22958 said, if you feel like it you can always try to sell your old one later to recoup some of your costs. You can even fix it and galvanize it before selling it if you want to take the risk that you'll get your money back.

- Andrew.
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 02:22 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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There is a guy that does Defender repair tutorial videos on youtube. I watched the bulkhead swap one the other night and it does look like a bit of a job.
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 02:32 PM
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Andrew Clarke
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Yeah, thanks for the reminder. I plan to spend the and buy his DVD.

It is a big job, but the end of it is a galvanized bulkhead that I'll hopefully never have to worry about again. That's worth it for me. Any patches in this environment are just going to be temporary fixes.
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 08:43 PM
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Replacing the bulkhead is a job but completely manageable. I use blue tape with a black marker along with pictures to mark everything ask I am dis-assembling it. It is a good time to tidy everything up and get it just the way you want. I would have some extra hinges and hinge screws as well as bulkhead screws available as they might be bad or not want to be removed. The two bolts that hold the bulkhead on would be nice to have new also.
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Old May 2nd, 2012, 08:45 PM
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Andrew Clarke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MC22958 View Post
Replacing the bulkhead is a job but completely manageable. I use blue tape with a black marker along with pictures to mark everything ask I am dis-assembling it. It is a good time to tidy everything up and get it just the way you want. I would have some extra hinges and hinge screws as well as bulkhead screws available as they might be bad or not want to be removed. The two bolts that hold the bulkhead on would be nice to have new also.
Thanks for the tips. I'll be making up a list of all that stuff I need before I start the job. Come to think of it, I'll start the list now!
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