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  #1  
Old October 24th, 2004, 10:15 PM
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Bulkhead Questions

I have two questions about my bulkhead:

1) what do the three rivets in the picture fasten? There is nothing on the opposite side of the bulkhead in that area and I want to run a hole through this area (the rivets dont protrude the other side because they enter a boxed in section of the bulkhead).

2) For those who have done a Tdi conversion, does the NAS intake mount interfere with the Tdi engine or the intake tube? I've seen ECR removes the mounts on the coversions they do, but I cant tell if that is just for the sake of neatness or because there is an interference problem.

THX
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  #2  
Old October 24th, 2004, 11:05 PM
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I am sure they are not there for decoration . . .
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  #3  
Old October 25th, 2004, 02:02 AM
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The air filter can mounts interfer with the air filter to turbo hose. Remove the mounts.

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  #4  
Old October 25th, 2004, 02:15 AM
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when I redid my bulkhead, and I removed the front panel, I don't remember seeing anything that those rivits held--they may have just been hole plugs. I drilled out every spot rivit, but I did not drill those out and the skin still came off.
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  #5  
Old October 25th, 2004, 08:25 AM
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Jim, Chris is right, the rivets are just there to plug the holes. LR does not update there parts offten so some things have holes from models years in the part. YOu can drill them out with no prob. And Pendy is also right. Remove the bracket. Just break out the grinder. You also have to remove the old clutch pipe support on the drivers footwell.
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  #6  
Old October 25th, 2004, 08:48 AM
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Ah, thanks all - I wouldnt have caught the clutch pipe mount until trying to bolt the bulkhead in place.

And Rankdy sice you mentioned it, What supports the clutch pipe to hose union on the Tdi set up? There is no corresponding bracket on the passenger side. I wouldnt think the pipe and hose would just connect in space...
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  #7  
Old October 25th, 2004, 08:53 AM
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Jim, My tdi kit came with the bracket that I riveted on. I might have a pic of it somewere. I think its a stock LR part that you can order though. I will look it up for you. IT is needed to support he pipe/tube union.
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  #8  
Old October 25th, 2004, 12:43 PM
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Cut the old mount in a manner that you can reuse it on the other side. You also need to cut that 1" thick strip with a bend on the hood. It will rub against the air filter case. Passenger side about midway.

Save pieces from the air filter case mount to cover up the leftover ECU harness hole.

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  #9  
Old October 25th, 2004, 04:39 PM
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Also, and I don't know what stage you are at, if you have an unassembled bulk head, I would galvanize it. Frame too, for that matter. Good luck on your project!
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  #10  
Old October 25th, 2004, 05:45 PM
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I agree with Davis. If the bulkhead / firewall is unassembled, then acid dip it and galvanize. Same goes for the frame and all steel parts.

Rivets are commonly used to patch holes. You'll want to remove them prior to the acid dip + galvanize process and then replace them as you reassemble your vehicle.
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  #11  
Old October 25th, 2004, 06:17 PM
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Ok, now you all are swaying me. Questions-

Is there any chance of salvaging the VIN sticker on the inner driver's kick panel?

What is the going rate ($) for galvanizing something like a bulkhead?

Any "cons" to the galvy approach?
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  #12  
Old October 25th, 2004, 09:17 PM
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Generally most galvanizing companies will have a minimum charge. You can galvanize every piece of steel, excluding the chassis, for a $100 minimum at my local galvanizer. I think it cost me about $150 for the chassis.

Pros:

1. Won't rust as fast as normal

2. Won't rust as fast as normal

3. Won't rust as fast as normal

Cons:

1. The item has to be absolutely free of oil, grease, and paint, so you have to get it sandblasted, but this will remove any surface rust you had, so that is now fixed.

2. The galv. process will probably leave some runs and waves in the bulkhead, which will need to be sanded out prior to painting. The guys spent 15 hours sanding on mine before they primed it. Glad I wasn't paying $40-$60/hour!

3. It is a BITCH to get paint to stick to galv. Even with an etch primer for painting over galvanized surfaces, the paint will still pop off easier than on clean steel.

Hope this helps. I would galvanize the bulkhead if I was you. I had a really clean FLA truck, but I couldn't believe how much rust was bubbling up under the paint as I sanblasted the bulkhead.
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  #13  
Old October 25th, 2004, 09:41 PM
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Paint does not happiluy stick to galvy.

If you want it to look right you basically have to leave it plain galvy. ON the other hand it will for all intents and purposes NEVER RUST.

all of the prototype 80in land rovers frames still around that were galvanized are still fine. They spent 55 years in England.
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  #14  
Old October 26th, 2004, 12:36 AM
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The reason that most paints do not stick well to galv. is that it (galv.) outgasses. There are newer paints that help solve this. You can research this if you choose.
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  #15  
Old October 26th, 2004, 12:41 AM
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You can use your drivers liscense registration and vehicle title to get a replacement door sticker from LR of North America.

I like the Galvy idea as well. It would look good against yellow.

JP
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  #16  
Old October 26th, 2004, 02:10 AM
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I once read an article on a great LR 90 restoration and the gentleman did not galvanize his frame or bulkhead. When asked why he came up with the only downside to galvanizing I've ever heard.

" It wieghs more than painting"

So instead he painted the chassis inside and out by tipping the chassis whatever direction to get the paint in the right spot.

Galvanize it.
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  #17  
Old October 26th, 2004, 05:56 PM
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Hi, Errrr... whilst not having a PHD or anything..I have never seen anyone galvanize a bulkhead..now, can 90 years of rust fearing British be wrong. As I recall, the various thicknesses and sections may cause twisting of the bulkhead if not placed in a jig..that is just a guess. tim
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  #18  
Old October 26th, 2004, 07:39 PM
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I have seen several galvanized. And the British don't fear rust, they embrace it. Take a look at British cars--enough said.
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  #19  
Old October 27th, 2004, 12:58 AM
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I've never heard of a chassis or bulkhead warping but I have heard of them exploding. Supposedly it's caused by designed holes being plugged during welding repairs. Weld up the holes, dip in hot liguid, pipe bomb.
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  #20  
Old October 27th, 2004, 01:00 PM
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Does the type of galvanizing affect the finished product? I was going to research the dif between Hot and cold tonight after reading the thread, but I thought I ask given the opportunity.

EwS
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