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  #1  
Old August 17th, 2012, 12:29 PM
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John Crouse
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Bulkhead Preparation

Ok I know this has been discussed, but I need to make a decision. My bulkhead is like swiss cheese and needs to go. I have an almost new NAS bulkhead ready to install. There is zero rust on it. My dilemma is how to prepare it. I see two options:

-Option 1 Give it several coats of good paint and then waxol the cavities.

-Option 2 Blast it. Galvanize it. Repaint it.

Having galvanized my B-pillars and door frames I know what a total pain in the neck both the pre and post galvanizing prep work is. I see the bulkhead as potentially even worse. I know people want to see galvanized frames and bulkheads, but is it worth the effort if its already in perfect shape?
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  #2  
Old August 17th, 2012, 12:34 PM
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Bill Adams
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I wouldn't rely on blasting, I would only have it chemically stripped if I were getting it galvanized. Oh yeah, I did that. Worked a treat. You can paint it if you start with an epoxy primer like AwlGrip 545. Best topcoat is a two part polyurethane.
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  #3  
Old August 17th, 2012, 12:59 PM
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No bulkhead is in perfect shape unless it is new and sat inside. The rust from the inside out on top. That being said, blast or preferable dip and galvanize is the way to go. I don't see it being much more work than painting.
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Old August 17th, 2012, 04:56 PM
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I just finished doing that to a new bulkhead. It still have the factory primer on it along with a couple dents. At any rate I had it bead blasted and then Hot Dipped Galvanized. The problem with the Galvanization is it may not look the best in the visible painted areas, ie "A" pillar. I had to sand it down before the etching primer. The good point is the Galvanization gets inside the bulkhead where you couldn't get the paint. Of course you could always Waxall the inside? If you are friends with the Galvanizer he might chemically dip it in his acid wash for you so that you wouldn't have to blast it. The reason they do not like to do it is it, a pained piece, is it shortens the life on the acid.
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Old August 17th, 2012, 05:07 PM
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A-1 Auto & Metal Stripping in Golden has a tank that they can strip it for you if you want to galvanize it.

If you decide to do a galvy run let me know I have a few things I would like to get dipped but not enough for an entire batch.

Your call but I think that it is worth it to galvanize the bulkhead since you do not have to worry about rust in the future and if you decide to sell the 110 later it adds to the value (more than the cost of the galvy).

Put some bolts in the holes with high temp RTV on them and you do not have to worry about using a tap.
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Old August 17th, 2012, 06:27 PM
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So my project is black and I had the Powder coater sand blast and powder coat all the areas that would not be seen on the outside of the vehicle - above the hood, down the side where the hinges are. I turned out good.
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Old August 18th, 2012, 12:04 AM
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John Crouse
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Dave I'll let you know when I'm ready. I use A-1 a lot. Good guys. Where can I get the RTV?

John
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Old August 18th, 2012, 09:34 AM
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Any auto parts store. Look at my build thread I have a bunch of info on all of the different things I tried.
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  #9  
Old August 19th, 2012, 07:37 AM
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If you sandblast and galvanize you will get a really rough finish. Chemical dip.
The other thing about galvy that most seem to miss. It does not get into the layers between sheetmetal......which is primarily where rust begins. I have cut galvanized things apart and witnessed some pretty heavy corrosion in between the layers. Thinking you will not have to worry about corrosion in the future is a mistake.
A good galvanizing shop will be able to "prime" for paint (colorzinc).
Still need to waxoyl the internal cavities annually or you are just wasting your money.

Personally I am pretty much done with the galvy bulkhead thing. I'm not sure it's worth the $$ which gets pretty substantial to do it right (doubles the cost of an unpainted bulkhead). The finishing costs are high and the result marginal with all the prep / warpage etc.

Quality paint, seamseal and wayoyl.
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Old August 19th, 2012, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyddog11 View Post
Still need to waxoyl the internal cavities annually or you are just wasting your money.
What's the best way to do this? Just access through the hinge bolt holes? Any other recommended access points?
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  #11  
Old August 19th, 2012, 10:06 AM
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Charles Galpin
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I discovered this recently myself. I had expected that the galvy dip would penetrate deeper but I have seen what Matt describes first hand.

But in theory if all the joints are sealed there is limited rusting that can occur without oxygen correct? Maybe the answer is to pour paint into the cavities and slosh it around to make sure all joints get filled.

But again, that begs the question - if the gap between the layers is too small to let galvy in, wouldn't the galvy end up sealing them up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyddog11 View Post
The other thing about galvy that most seem to miss. It does not get into the layers between sheetmetal......which is primarily where rust begins. I have cut galvanized things apart and witnessed some pretty heavy corrosion in between the layers. Thinking you will not have to worry about corrosion in the future is a mistake.
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  #12  
Old August 19th, 2012, 10:18 AM
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Welds will be viseable were repaired because the galvy builds up more than the areas around them typically, even if it is ground and hit with a soft wheel before dipping and seems perfectly smooth. This did not matter to me but could to some people. My galvy was not expensive at all and being ever paranoid as I am about rust I did the following. Blasted, repaired, blasted again, acid dip, galvy, epoxy primer, paint, then 3 helpings of waxyoil injections. If it does rust between layers i would still go galvy over paint, as the galvy cannot be worst than they came from the factory!
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  #13  
Old August 19th, 2012, 07:26 PM
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You need to use a different welding wire (low silicone me thinks) if you want the welding the welding you've hand machined to be *less* visible once galvanized..

------ Follow up post added August 19th, 2012 07:27 PM ------

Zinc might also seem to fill most gaps but will not do so as to be impermeable to the atmosphere.
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