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  #1  
Old December 20th, 2015, 09:51 AM
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dave rees
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Bulkhead....

Hey fellas,

Need some bulkhead advice. Concerns a series truck, but this forum seems to get more traffic than the series one, and it seems a bulkhead is pretty much a bulkhead...

So, building a hybrid using a really rust free 88". Plan is to refurb everything, except for exterior paint on the car. ( awesome patina currently)
Bulkhead is currently really solid, with mild surface rust in footwell. I want to be able to keep the exterior patina, but will most likely repaint the inside. So, looking for advice on how to best protect what I have. Thinking about having the outside clear coated, but want something more for the inside. Rhino line? Powdercoat? Just fresh paint?
Thought about having it galvanized and using whatever the acid Is to weather the galvanizing. This seems like it offers the best protection, but I hear horror stories of bulkheads getting
warped during the process.

Any thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, dave
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  #2  
Old December 20th, 2015, 12:56 PM
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Don Bunnell
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I think an exposed galvy bulkhead will look great on a Series.

The galvy finish will compliment the other patina panels. I did that with my 110 and very happy with the results. The lighter color galvy also makes it easier to see engine compartment items.

If I was to do it again I would just Line-X the interior inside for sound dampening and to match my other interior Line-X panels.
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  #3  
Old December 20th, 2015, 02:52 PM
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Will
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I would galvanize the bulkhead……..insurance that you won't be doing it all again years down the road.

I would also paint over the galvanized, there are several threads on GNR debating this and explaining the process so that the paint adheres properly.
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  #4  
Old December 20th, 2015, 05:09 PM
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RBBailey
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As far as paint, I matched my original paint color, but used a brush to apply. It looks nice, but has a finished look that gives it an old quality that better matches the patina.
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  #5  
Old December 20th, 2015, 08:37 PM
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Paul
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Definitely galvanize it, but why cover up the Rover Chrome?!
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  #6  
Old December 21st, 2015, 06:48 AM
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Mark Garrenton
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The problem with covering up the ferrous metal with line-x or similar is obvious. You will not get it completely sealed inside and outside. When rust hits one of the exposed areas it will spread. Repairs will be a bitch because that coating will have to be removed for welding. Like others, I suggest galvy. I've done this to two bulkheads, two chassis', my M101cdn trailer and too many other bits to count. It will outlast you. Once done you can leave it exposed for that soft oxidized look or treat with the right chemicals and paint it. I prefer the latter but that's just me.
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  #7  
Old December 21st, 2015, 07:55 AM
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Chris
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Even with galvanized bulkhead I think the footwells could do with some extra protection from stones rocks etc.
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  #8  
Old December 21st, 2015, 08:16 AM
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Bill Adams
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The bulkhead will probably not warp if it does it isn't so much you cant get the bottom bolts in with a little leverage.
After galvanizing you will want to go after it with a MAPP torch and your blow gun. Heat the area with the torch and while the zinc is still wet hit it with the blow gun. This is particularly important for the vent hinges and all the captive nuts. Don't forget the holes for the vent screens if fitted cz drilling out the holes will suck if you do.
I highly recommend that you chemically strip it by having it dipped. that will completely de-rust it inside and out.
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Old December 21st, 2015, 09:03 AM
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Don Bunnell
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ezzzzzzzz - I should have added that the Line-X I mentioned would be applied post galvy. I may see if the place I use could spray it on the footwheels at least.
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Old December 21st, 2015, 09:31 AM
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Mark Garrenton
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I used V&S in downtown Philly for my last chassis dip. That should be somewhat close to you in NJ. We made arrangements to have the chassis dropped off when the gates opened in the morning. I was picking it back up at noon while it was still warm to the touch. Some minor warpage can be expected but nothing worse than the factory precision construction. As Bill mentioned, a torch and blowgun will help remove excess zinc but watch out for the blow back! I run a tap or reamer through every hole prior to any assembly to ensure no future issues of fitment. If you're going to coat the floorboards after the fact do use line-x or rhino or similar. DO NOT use the DIY products as they will wear terribly. If you intend to do all panels I'd have each done individually so assembly or disassembly is much easier. It might be worthwhile to have the floor panels flanged prior to coating for a better fit to account for the thickness of the coating too.
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I need to go back to work for the break. Retirement is exhausting!

'71 IIA 88" LS1 hybrid
'84 110 5 door 'Nigerian Princess'
'90 RRC
'97 D1 LSE (parting out)
'02 D2 Kalahari
'02 D2 SE
'02 D2 SE
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  #11  
Old December 21st, 2015, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
The bulkhead will probably not warp if it does it isn't so much you cant get the bottom bolts in with a little leverage.
After galvanizing you will want to go after it with a MAPP torch and your blow gun. Heat the area with the torch and while the zinc is still wet hit it with the blow gun. This is particularly important for the vent hinges and all the captive nuts. Don't forget the holes for the vent screens if fitted cz drilling out the holes will suck if you do.
How does this get done? The only place I can find that can do the galv work on my bulkhead is a large factory setting where the idea of me going in there with a torch and heat gun would need to include James Bond to cover for me while I get the work done.

And if I may piggy back on this thread -- once the galv work is done, should seams on pillars and in foot wells then be sealed?

Also, what side-effects to putting it all back together again might I be looking at if I get the Defender bulkhead dipped?
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  #12  
Old December 21st, 2015, 01:16 PM
ezzzzzzz
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Mark Garrenton
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You do the torch and blow gun in your garage or driveway. Any seams that are no fully filled over with zinc are going to leach remnant hydrochloric acid from the prep tank (prior to galv dipping). This is more prevalent where it is exposed to moisture/water. You need to clean all of this up with a neutralizer. Afterwards you can seam seal or line-x if you wish. Let me reiterate, if you intend to paint or line-x you must use the appropriate chemicals to clean and etch the galvy. If not, it will not adhere properly....period. I use PPG DX579 (cleaner) and DX520 (etcher). Any good automotive paint supplier can provide you the correct products for this task.
The attached photo shows my trailer painted on the outside and prior to line-x'ing the interior. I did a glass bead blasting on the interior, cleaned and etched before I took it to line-x to ensure good permanent adhesion.
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I need to go back to work for the break. Retirement is exhausting!

'71 IIA 88" LS1 hybrid
'84 110 5 door 'Nigerian Princess'
'90 RRC
'97 D1 LSE (parting out)
'02 D2 Kalahari
'02 D2 SE
'02 D2 SE
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  #13  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 01:54 AM
RBBailey
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RBBailey
1965 IIa
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Good looking results there. I get what you mean now about touching it up with the heat gun, thank.

Also, I painted the rear bumper of my galv chassis last summer. I knew it would probably not work right, but I figured, so what? It's a few dollars of paint and 20 minutes of time. I cleaned it. Used brake cleaner. Then wiped it down with an acid wash, rinse with clean water. Paint still looks great, and was even beading up the rain water today!

BUT! All this is moot since the only two places I can find in my area have told me that they won't do automotive parts because of liability due to the warping.
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  #14  
Old December 22nd, 2015, 09:09 AM
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Mark Garrenton
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Produce a waiver of liability to see if they will relent. I can understand the reluctance due to fanatical enthusiast that expects perfection even when it clearly isn't possible. I've seen more than one of these spoiled brats in the years I've been around LRs. It isn't relegated to our marque either.
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I need to go back to work for the break. Retirement is exhausting!

'71 IIA 88" LS1 hybrid
'84 110 5 door 'Nigerian Princess'
'90 RRC
'97 D1 LSE (parting out)
'02 D2 Kalahari
'02 D2 SE
'02 D2 SE
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