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  #1  
Old June 27th, 2016, 12:31 PM
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Broken prop shaft

Yeah, it was a fun morning. Luckily when my prop shaft decided to snap off it was close to work. Should have heard the noise as it banged the bottom of the seat box. Any thoughts on what can cause this to happen? Luckily a friend was available to come remove what was left and tow me to his shop....
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  #2  
Old June 27th, 2016, 12:38 PM
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Matthew
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That u joint has been toast for a long while. Hence how it's nearly worn through 1/2 of the center cross piece.

They wear out over time without lubrication or by getting dirty. Good news is that a new u joint is only about $20 us for a good one and takes about 30min and a press or a vise for a layman to change out
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  #3  
Old June 27th, 2016, 12:39 PM
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I've had this happen twice. First time was failure to grease the u-joint (or spicer or whatever it's called across the pond lol), it just eventually went bad and failed. Same thing too, banged up the underside pretty good. Second time was on the rear, had some debris get up in there and destroyed one of the caps, lost all the bearings, and it eventually rattled itself apart.
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  #4  
Old June 27th, 2016, 12:41 PM
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Thomason, Max
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Old and crappy. Judging from the rust, the needle bearings probably seized up/ground away into nothing. Then you've got slop...then it goes from there. Were they ever greased?

Probably should look at replacing/rebuilding the rear propshaft while you are there. Considering how bad that one looks.
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  #5  
Old June 27th, 2016, 12:51 PM
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If you're replacing the U-joint, don't waste your time with the Precision or Napa U-joints...get the GKNs, it's worth a few more bucks. They go in MUCH easier, and have a bigger rubber "boot" so in theory should protect from dirt/mud better.

I just finished rebuilding my driveshafts (again), and literally couldn't get the Precision or Napa UJ's to seat properly. Got some GKNs, and they went in place perfectly....

Just beat them in/out using a couple of sockets and BFH (or you can use a heavy duty vice to press them in/out, but I've just been doing the beat 'em in place method lately as it's quicker). Socket that is "smaller" than UJ cap to seat them in, and a socket that is much "bigger" on the backside of the yoke to catch the other cap when it pops out (and give you some space to have it pass through the yoke and into the opening/empty space in the big socket).
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  #6  
Old June 27th, 2016, 12:54 PM
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This must have been vibrating for MONTHS.
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  #7  
Old June 27th, 2016, 01:01 PM
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Neglect maybe? Think about how much rides on this moving part. Minimal servicing will typically go a long way for a part like this.
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  #8  
Old June 27th, 2016, 01:02 PM
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Andy, helpful tip. Carry 2 9/16" spanners in your truck, that way you can remove the shaft and lock the center diff; then you avoid the tow, and rebuild it while the truck is in 2wd
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  #9  
Old June 27th, 2016, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
Andy, helpful tip. Carry 2 9/16" spanners in your truck, that way you can remove the shaft and lock the center diff; then you avoid the tow, and rebuild it while the truck is in 2wd
I've got to go ahead and "disagree" with you on that one ....(1) 9/16 spanner, and (1) of these bad boys is the way to go:
PROP SHAFT SOCKET SPECIAL TOOL, RNT141 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
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  #10  
Old June 27th, 2016, 01:12 PM
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Picture of the shaft makes it look bent to my eye. Check that before only doing u-joints....

As above, you have been driving with a dead joint for a very long time.
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  #11  
Old June 27th, 2016, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
I've got to go ahead and "disagree" with you on that one ....(1) 9/16 spanner, and (1) of these bad boys is the way to go:
PROP SHAFT SOCKET SPECIAL TOOL, RNT141 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts
Ha! Yes, those are awesome, and I have one of course. However, they require also having a socket wrench. If you want to keep it simple....
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  #12  
Old June 27th, 2016, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
Ha! Yes, those are awesome, and I have one of course. However, they require also having a socket wrench. If you want to keep it simple....
People drive Rovers without a full set of tools on hand? Jeesh...who knew! I actually prefer the 9/16 driveshaft tool coupled with the Dewalt 1/4-driver to get the driveshafts off in like 5-minutes!
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  #13  
Old June 27th, 2016, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
People drive Rovers without a full set of tools on hand? Jeesh...who knew! I actually prefer the 9/16 driveshaft tool coupled with the Dewalt 1/4-driver to get the driveshafts off in like 5-minutes!
It's tragic...truly. I have at least 15lbs of tools in the truck at any given time.
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  #14  
Old June 27th, 2016, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.G View Post
It's tragic...truly. I have at least 15lbs of tools in the truck at any given time.
That's what I refer to as the "bare minimum" just to get to the store and back.
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  #15  
Old June 27th, 2016, 01:22 PM
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I had a feeling there was something wrong. There was what I would describe as a gobbling noise, like a turkey, emanating from there for a month or so. I would only hear it at low RPMs with the clutch engaged. I figured it for the clutch, had it checked and nothing came of it. Now I know I suppose. Great tips from all.
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Old June 27th, 2016, 02:08 PM
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This kind of thing always makes me question those *lifetime* u-joints.

My Excursion has them...220K miles on them now. No Lubrication.
Many cars and trucks now have non serviceable ujoints.


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Old June 27th, 2016, 02:12 PM
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The lifetime joints have better seals than the greaseable ones. IME, they last much, much longer than the greaseable ones, so are a better choice.

It is normally easy to tell when one starts to go and you have a fair amount of time to change it out. You get a vibration and/or noise on power at a certain range of speeds that is a lot lower than tire related vibration speeds.
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  #18  
Old June 27th, 2016, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The lifetime joints have better seals than the greaseable ones. IME, they last much, much longer than the greaseable ones, so are a better choice.

It is normally easy to tell when one starts to go and you have a fair amount of time to change it out. You get a vibration and/or noise on power at a certain range of speeds that is a lot lower than tire related vibration speeds.
That could be true re: better seals. And my Excursion is just a hiway truck.
But I'll never hear a bad ujoint over the noise of the 7.3!


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  #19  
Old June 27th, 2016, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
This kind of thing always makes me question those *lifetime* u-joints.

My Excursion has them...220K miles on them now. No Lubrication.
Many cars and trucks now have non serviceable ujoints.


.
I supposed with highway daily drivers that would work (lifetime...well, most car manufacturers state "lifetime" which is about 100k miles). For my 90, I'm lucky if I get 10k out of a set...and yes, I keep them well-greased, I just think since I'm running a single-cardon driveshaft they tend to get more abuse than normal. I also have a small tolerance for "play", and as soon as I see even the slightest wiggle in the UJ's I replace them immediately (hence the 10k interval).
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  #20  
Old June 27th, 2016, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The lifetime joints have better seals than the greaseable ones. IME, they last much, much longer than the greaseable ones, so are a better choice.

It is normally easy to tell when one starts to go and you have a fair amount of time to change it out. You get a vibration and/or noise on power at a certain range of speeds that is a lot lower than tire related vibration speeds.
I'm not pretty much sure, but I think that isn't about half of the trougth.

I got some of these double joint ones.
They all were manufactured by GKN, in different sizes but all in common, they got no grease nipples and made too much noise!

It's just like to have no water in the can while planting: you are able to see how it dies!











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