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  #21  
Old June 27th, 2016, 04:11 PM
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fishEH
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Brett Fritzler
1998 Discovery
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Just beat them in/out using a couple of sockets and BFH (or you can use a heavy duty vice to press them in/out, but I've just been doing the beat 'em in place method lately as it's quicker). Socket that is "smaller" than UJ cap to seat them in, and a socket that is much "bigger" on the backside of the yoke to catch the other cap when it pops out (and give you some space to have it pass through the yoke and into the opening/empty space in the big socket).
Totally agree. I used a vice for a bunch of them. But eventually I found a couple sockets and a ball peen hammer to be quicker and easier. And its good practice for a trail repair.
Buy two 6pt spanners and toss them in thw glove box and forget about them. They take up almost no space and will be there when you need thwm in a pinch.
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  #22  
Old June 27th, 2016, 05:32 PM
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Jimmy
1995 D90 SW #365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
That's what I refer to as the "bare minimum" just to get to the store and back.
The sad part is that I have done an engine swap and a transmission swap with just the tools I keep in my truck.
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  #23  
Old July 26th, 2016, 07:13 AM
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Mike & Carrie Wendt
1986 90 2.5NA
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Part number?

I've become aware of a new vibration and think I'll change all 4 U-joints. Is the consensus to go with GKN? What is the part number and are all 4 the same?

1988 110. But to complicate things it has a Disco 300Tdi installed. Who knows which parts were kept at the back of the LT230.

Good source for GKN?

Thanks,

Mike
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  #24  
Old July 26th, 2016, 07:19 AM
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Chris
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Buying a grease gun and using it every 3k really does make a difference.
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