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  #1  
Old August 22nd, 2007, 11:58 PM
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Anthony Leung
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broken engine mounts

So before i dump a ton of money on QT mounts which i'm cheap, i really don't want to. Has anyone had issues with broken engine mounts constantly and what fixed it?I hear reseating the entire driveline will help from a friend, but the way i'm going though them it's getting stupid. I just replaced these when i put in the 4.6. I busted 2 engine mounts on Die Trying, one before the exit and one on the exit, and then replaced both that night, and busted one on Calamity the next day, replaced both, and broken another one on Holy Cross at French creek. And well that was just last week. I'm just wondering if it has to do with how articulated the truck is . Here is the spot which the mount gave on french creek.
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  #2  
Old August 23rd, 2007, 12:11 AM
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Randy Black
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Could it be bad rubber like the radius arm bushings that disentegrate way too fast?
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Old August 23rd, 2007, 12:23 AM
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Anthony Leung
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Not sure, I never had this problem before i rebuilt the t-case with maxi-drive gears and swaped to a 4.6 though, Might be all the torque, or maybe just something wrong with the setup. I don't know anymore. Fixed the heat problems and something new pops up. Not to mention my PS pump is leaking like a faucet now, atleast i have an excuse to go to a PSC pump with hydro assit
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  #4  
Old August 23rd, 2007, 12:41 AM
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Take .5in steel, bend it to make your own mount and weld it to your frame. That will take care of it for cheap. Nice pics btw.
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Old August 23rd, 2007, 12:44 AM
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Anthony Leung
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
Take .5in steel, bend it to make your own mount and weld it to your frame. That will take care of it for cheap. Nice pics btw.
I thought about that, just worried from shock impact , since all i do with the truck is wheel it. I thought about using a hockey puck too lol. Buck are yours welded? btw, i'm moving out to San Diego, any fun hard trails out there? I'm rather worried, going from colorado and moving back to socal .
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Old August 23rd, 2007, 01:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthony
I thought about that, just worried from shock impact , since all i do with the truck is wheel it. I thought about using a hockey puck too lol. Buck are yours welded? btw, i'm moving out to San Diego, any fun hard trails out there? I'm rather worried, going from colorado and moving back to socal .
Hey,

Yeah, I have the mounts I described. Been wheeling for a long time with no issue. But are you burning through bushings or physically breaking mounts?

WE HAVE THE HAMMERS....no need to worry about moving out here. You can get into as much trouble as you want to. Plus you'll have a wheeling buddy.
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Old August 23rd, 2007, 01:07 AM
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Anthony Leung
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i'm physically breaking the mounts, nobody has any idea other than 1. the stock rover mounts suck. 2. the drive line is not seated correctly.


Yeah I've heard about the hammers... Loooking forward to it, my winter project of putting in ford 9's . But need to resolve this and the Power steering first.
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  #8  
Old August 23rd, 2007, 01:13 AM
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Okay,

Then my way is the easiest and strongest. The driveline may not be seated correctly, but the fabbed mounts will still solve the problem anyway. Hmmm, I know a thing or two about running Ford 9's.
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  #9  
Old August 23rd, 2007, 09:32 AM
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FYI: RN has motor mounts listed for $8, the cheapest I have found if you decide to stick with the standard mounts.

PS Maine110 has some for sale in the sale section.

I broke both motor mounts in that spot last summer, although I was on the far left side which is the easier side.
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  #10  
Old August 23rd, 2007, 11:19 AM
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Anthony Leung
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Jeff we were actually looking for your phone number to make it up last monday, your address is listed but not your phone # in the directory. There's pretty much no way i'm going with stock engine mounts as much as i'm breaking them , changing them out is so much a chore. I don't enjoy having to carry a floor jack everywhere i go either.
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  #11  
Old August 23rd, 2007, 11:30 AM
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jim pendleton
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Automatic transmission conversion. Quit messing about.

Follow-up Post:

The clutch pedal does not like you.
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  #12  
Old August 23rd, 2007, 11:36 AM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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Have you checked the t-case mounts? When I replaced my engine mounts a few months back I found that all four mounts were broken and that the drivetrain was sitting on the 3 link crossmember. I think that better than stock mounts will help but definately believe you have other issues causing this. Looking at your engine does it appear to be clocked to one side or the other...or tilt front to back/back to front excessively?

IIRC I used the 2.5na mounts for the engine and they are a bit more robust. They also seem to be a bit taller and tilt the engine back a bit so I had to shim the fan shroud up a bit to get everything to agree during articulation.

Tis
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  #13  
Old August 23rd, 2007, 11:52 AM
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Anthony Leung
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yes yes, the entire tranny is sitting in my garage with a hp44 torque converter . So i still need a center console. the other item is should i get this tranny rebuilt by someone, or should i just run it untill it dies? Speaking of which you going to be down in Denver today?

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteD90
Have you checked the t-case mounts? When I replaced my engine mounts a few months back I found that all four mounts were broken and that the drivetrain was sitting on the 3 link crossmember. I think that better than stock mounts will help but definately believe you have other issues causing this. Looking at your engine does it appear to be clocked to one side or the other...or tilt front to back/back to front excessively?

IIRC I used the 2.5na mounts for the engine and they are a bit more robust. They also seem to be a bit taller and tilt the engine back a bit so I had to shim the fan shroud up a bit to get everything to agree during articulation.

Tis
Well right now with the broken engine mount it is tilting to one side, mostly because i'm sure there's more than 2-3 broken mounts. But all these mounts were changed several weeks prior to the Rally. I think i will try changing hte mounts and reseating the driveline with the 2.5na mounts, and see how that goes. But i'm positive somethings not lined up right. I worked on both the engine and t-case before the rally but never took the tranny out so for all i know both could be misaligned. But when the mounts are not busted and everything is running, I am not seeing excessive torquing over of the engine and everything sits even. I just reallly don't want to end up welding it to the frame, absolutely no give ... But i think this is going to take some tinkering to solve, might end up having to do what buck said and weld it. But if they hold up for you Tis, i think they should hold up for me.
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  #14  
Old August 23rd, 2007, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthony
I just reallly don't want to end up welding it to the frame, absolutely no give ..
I think I may be as clear as mud here. I am talking about welding up a .5in bracket to the frame. The motor still has rubber isolaters. The motor is not welded to anything. There is no more vibration than a standard setup. Unless I am completely confused and you are breaking the rubber portion? The nice thing about building your own mount is you can use whatever you want as far as an isolator.
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  #15  
Old August 23rd, 2007, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthony
yes yes, the entire tranny is sitting in my garage with a hp44 torque converter . So i still need a center console. the other item is should i get this tranny rebuilt by someone, or should i just run it untill it dies? Speaking of which you going to be down in Denver today?

Follow-up Post:

Well right now with the broken engine mount it is tilting to one side, mostly because i'm sure there's more than 2-3 broken mounts. But all these mounts were changed several weeks prior to the Rally. I think i will try changing hte mounts and reseating the driveline with the 2.5na mounts, and see how that goes. But i'm positive somethings not lined up right. I worked on both the engine and t-case before the rally but never took the tranny out so for all i know both could be misaligned. But when the mounts are not busted and everything is running, I am not seeing excessive torquing over of the engine and everything sits even. I just reallly don't want to end up welding it to the frame, absolutely no give ... But i think this is going to take some tinkering to solve, might end up having to do what buck said and weld it. But if they hold up for you Tis, i think they should hold up for me.
Just FYI the 2.5na mounts only fit the engine, the t-case will have to be stock or something aftermarket. I think the eyelets are a tad smaller on those.
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  #16  
Old August 23rd, 2007, 11:19 PM
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I just converted to a ZF and broke all four mounts the first time out and it was soft wheeling. A little left foot braking is all it took and the whole shooting match started moving all around. I was on a 400 mile round trip when it went out. Ratchet strap and a gentle touch got me home!! I am going to put in a solid rubber mount with a bolt through the middle to eliminate the problem. Probably going with a short sleeve to help tighten things up. Pics and other posts to follow next week.
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  #17  
Old August 24th, 2007, 12:12 PM
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jim pendleton
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How about a spring and castle nut to keep tension? Maybe a valve spring exterior of the mounting bracket. I have considered this before.

JP
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  #18  
Old August 24th, 2007, 03:24 PM
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Guys,

I went through the whole motor mount saga with my 5 liter, breaking mounts on two Nevada Trophy events and elsewhere.

1. I'm currently using land rover diesel mounts, got them from British Pacific, and very happy with them. They are square and much heavier duty. Haven't broken one yet.
2. I tried the QTs. IMHO, only for competition -- they are way too stiff and the whole truck vibrated excessively, too much for me.
3. During the time that I was breaking stock mounts, the passenger side exhaust was kicking the frame on decelration. I'm sure that had something to do with it. Part of the drive train issue.

I'd just try the diesel mounts first and see if they last a few months.

Doug W.
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  #19  
Old August 24th, 2007, 04:56 PM
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Anthony Leung
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
I think I may be as clear as mud here. I am talking about welding up a .5in bracket to the frame. The motor still has rubber isolaters. The motor is not welded to anything. There is no more vibration than a standard setup. Unless I am completely confused and you are breaking the rubber portion? The nice thing about building your own mount is you can use whatever you want as far as an isolator.
Yeah your right about the mounts , that part i will do , i'm just having issues with the rubber isolator mounts or what ever they call them as well. They are getting sheered off pretty cleanly.
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