Brand new 4.6 installed in 1995 D-90... need a little help. - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old October 19th, 2004, 12:17 AM
Heath's Avatar
Heath
Status: Offline
Heath Ahrens
1995/D-90
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bernardsville, NJ, US
Posts: 125
Brand new 4.6 installed in 1995 D-90... need a little help.

First off I greatly appreciate any help you guys can give me.
Is there still an old forum with a lot of info?

Those 2 bars that go in front of the radiator (cable-tied to the horns)... How do they mount?
It has been about 4 months since I took it apart

The Vacuum hose attaching from the fuel pump area to the intake is keeping the throttle assembly from closing completely; is this normal? It looks like an "L" shape...maybee about 3/4" OD

The vehicle has a steady idle but it revs up on its own...
(engine also dies when battery is disconnected)
(I have the Lead off alternator going to the starter... all the way on the left...Is that right,
I have the brown and yellow small wire going off the middle terminal... and the tach plugs in)
(tach is not working due to crappy diode in Marelli alternator *soon to be replaced with Mean Green...
(does mean green have output for tach ((should have thought of that))

The fan clutch catches when the temp goes above the middle and pulls an extreme amount of air through the radiator, is this normal? Also it hits, ever so gently the shroud (only when the fan's clutch is engaged)

I have a code 14 that keeps coming up what is a Thermistor?
Thermostat is ok (just replaced)

Also, I want to change the fluid in trans, transfer and diffs if anyone can point me to a tech article. ie where is the fill hole in the trans (manual)?

If anyone has any requests for pictures or any other info I will be glad to help...
I am also welding up a pair of 2"x3" 3/16" diam steel tube sliders for under $75 which I would like to make a tech article when everything is done...
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old October 19th, 2004, 07:51 AM
JimC's Avatar
JimC
Status: Offline
Jim Cheney
NAS 110 #145
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Posts: 7,154
Registry
You mean the diagonal bars in the pic? What nuance of mouting are you trying to figure out? They connect the brace between the fenders to the little chassis flanges. I could be more specific if I knew exactly what the problem was...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Grill Gone.jpg
Views:	174
Size:	68.1 KB
ID:	1657  
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old October 19th, 2004, 11:48 AM
Hans's Avatar
Hans
Status: Offline
Hans Haase
The D-90.com Lab Rat
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,381
The thermistor I can answer, just replaced mine on my 3.9. It's the coolant temp sensor for the engine control computer (separate from the gauge sensor). If it's the same part as the 3.9, I got mine from British Pacific for like $15. Part # ETC8496 and crush washer # 243967

It's located toward the front left of the intake manifold, on the top of it and screws vertically down into the coolant. If you're quick, you don't even have to drain any of the coolant out, mine dribbled a bit when I was changing it but less than a cup.

-Hans
__________________
My oil line fix

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
My 100k stopped odometer fix

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Brace for impact, I'm in a "modifying mood". Massive thread count inbound.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old October 19th, 2004, 01:08 PM
tmore
Status: Offline
Tom More
1995 D90
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 104
(does mean green have output for tach ((should have thought of that))


The MEAN GREEN alternator does have a lead for the Tach..
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old October 19th, 2004, 02:57 PM
Heath's Avatar
Heath
Status: Offline
Heath Ahrens
1995/D-90
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bernardsville, NJ, US
Posts: 125
Thanks So Much

Thanks So much for your help.
There are no wires for the thermistor sensor in my harness...
It is the one in the thermistat housing (I think) and has two leads...
When I bought my truck (with 70k from Land Rover) it had quite a few things about it that were not stock;
This includes the Battery Tray, Lack of wires to Thermistor (I am assuming), Aux heater which blows like it is dead... etc.

Where do these wires go, where do they come from and do they exist?

Also, I feel like my timing is too advanced, but the distributor vaccum is hitting the thermostat housing.
Should I pull the distributor and put it back in after turning the gear a bit counter-clockwise?
It may also be due to this Vaccum hose that is in the way of the throttle linkage closing all the way.

Thanks for all of your help guys, I will keep you updated.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old October 19th, 2004, 05:15 PM
Hans's Avatar
Hans
Status: Offline
Hans Haase
The D-90.com Lab Rat
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,381
Mine also has some type of connections on the thermostat housing that aren't connected to anything. Not sure what those are for honestly.

There should be two other sensors in the intake manifold other than the one in the thermostat housing. On the front face, right side is the sender for the temperature gauge. On the right side front, on the top, is the Themistor. It's just behind the distributor, and will have a funky spring connector. I've seen it also listed as the engine coolant temp sensor.

If you need, I'll try to snap a picture of it, but that would have to wait until tomorrow. At work right now.

-Hans
__________________
My oil line fix

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
My 100k stopped odometer fix

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Brace for impact, I'm in a "modifying mood". Massive thread count inbound.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old October 20th, 2004, 10:31 AM
Heath's Avatar
Heath
Status: Offline
Heath Ahrens
1995/D-90
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bernardsville, NJ, US
Posts: 125
Jim,
Thanks for the Photo.
I just could not remember which way those braces went.

If anyone has any info on how to retard timing (when I can't turn past the thermostat housing), my exhaust is getting red hot where the manifolds meet the y pipes back to the cats (NRP system w/ stock coated manifolds). Also is the vaccum hose that stops the throttle linkage from closing all the way normal?

The thing is shooting flames, and sounds like it is burning alcohol.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old October 20th, 2004, 12:17 PM
Hans's Avatar
Hans
Status: Offline
Hans Haase
The D-90.com Lab Rat
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,381
Heath, here is a timing suggestion for you that I had to use once. Move all the plug wires over 1 spot on the distributor cap, and turn the distributor in the other direction by 45 degrees. This should give you the same timing, and should also give you more than enough room to adjust the timing since it will have moved the vacuum pot away from the manifold.

-Hans
__________________
My oil line fix

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
My 100k stopped odometer fix

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Brace for impact, I'm in a "modifying mood". Massive thread count inbound.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old October 20th, 2004, 03:44 PM
Heath's Avatar
Heath
Status: Offline
Heath Ahrens
1995/D-90
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Bernardsville, NJ, US
Posts: 125
Thanks.
That was what I was thinking, but I was just affraid of doing it.
I wish I had known where to set the rotor on TDC when the engine was out of the truck.

I can't figure out if the idle is high because of that vaccum tube keeping the throttle linkage from closing.
If you face the intake side of the plenum cover... there is a brass pipe coming out of the right side (same side as the throttle linkage), with a rubber vaccum hose going to something near the fuel pump.

Is this hose supposed to stop the throttle from closing?

If you pull the hose off, the throttle will close.

I think the reason it seems advanced (6-12 deg B TDC) is because the idle is too high.

Thanks again!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
1995, 90, 95, d-90

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
F/S 1995 Defender 90 ToddR For Sale - Vehicles 9 September 19th, 2016 06:09 PM
1995 Defender 90 ST 2468 with 43000 miles EXCELLENT CONDITION funrover For Sale - Vehicles 1 September 25th, 2008 08:52 PM
3.9 to 4.6 1995 D-90 boxerhips Defender Technical Discussions 5 January 25th, 2006 07:20 PM
1995 Land Rover NAS Defender 90 ST (300 Tdi) MDS For Sale - Vehicles 7 March 4th, 2005 08:55 PM
1995 defender 90! TwisteD90 For Sale - Vehicles 38 November 4th, 2004 10:15 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:52 PM.


Copyright