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  #1  
Old January 7th, 2009, 09:59 AM
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Mike Doligalski
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Brake tools

Hey all,

I think I am going to attempt changing pads and rotors on all four corners the weekend after next. Is there anything besides the obvious that I need? Do I need to get a hub tool?

I just replaced the brakes on my Camry and it was a breeze. The rover shouldn't be much more difficult right? I've got the FSM and it actually looks a bit more complex than what I was thinking, but all the same I am thinking it should be more straightforward once I get in there. Anyone have a sage words of advice before I jump into this project?
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  #2  
Old January 7th, 2009, 10:30 AM
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Charles Galpin
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You'll need the hub tool (it can be done without one, but its a PITA). But it's not a hard job at all.
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  #3  
Old January 7th, 2009, 10:31 AM
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Snap ring pliars.
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  #4  
Old January 7th, 2009, 10:46 AM
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12 Point Socket To Remove The Caliper.
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  #5  
Old January 7th, 2009, 10:50 AM
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John
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pads are easy but the rotor is a different story, but it's relatively streight forward. just follow the steps in this tech article : http://www.defendersource.com/tech/bearing.html

you will need some tools, highly recommend impact wrench.
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Old January 7th, 2009, 01:12 PM
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Mike Doligalski
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Awesome. This is exactly the stuff I was hoping you guys could fill me in on. It seems like it would be a good idea to go ahead and service the wheel bearings while I'm in there. Is that a good idea? Do I have to do that while I'm in there?
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Old January 7th, 2009, 01:18 PM
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the bearings will come out when you pull the rotor, check bearings and replace if needed
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Old January 7th, 2009, 01:44 PM
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Charles Galpin
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It's unlikely you'll have any bearing problems (you'd know if you did). Like Jimmy says, check them and re-pack with grease if needed (or just add some). If anything changing seals would be good preventative maintenance, but not needed if you are not leaking now.
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  #9  
Old January 7th, 2009, 01:46 PM
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A bearing greaser will make that part of the job a lot less messy. There are several differnt types that are available at all the usual auto parts stores.
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  #10  
Old January 7th, 2009, 01:54 PM
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The bearing behind the seal I would not mess with unless it looks dry or contaminated. Just slather some more grease on it. The one that falls out, you should repack.
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  #11  
Old January 7th, 2009, 03:18 PM
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I repacked all of them. You need 13mm 12 point socket if I remember correctly. I didn't buy the big socket, but it wasn't that bad. The bearing packer that is the plastic cup with a plunger and a spring in the bottom works well. Unless you have the squeeze tool, you will need a c-clamp to compress the calipers in order to get the new pads over the new rotors. You might want to grab a handfull of new cotter pins also. I know it sounds silly, but pull all your new rotors out of the boxes. Make sure your putting the fat ones on front. Its also as good as any time to upgrade axles if you want.
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  #12  
Old January 7th, 2009, 10:58 PM
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I found this article by Randy Black on Bill Burke's 4-Wheeling America website very helpful. Especially the little trick about notching the brake line bracket so you never have to break the line again if you want to repack your wheel bearings.

http://www.bb4wa.com/articles/wheelbearings.htm

Also, it should be noted that there are two types of wheel seals. The single lip type are to be set flush and the newer double lip style are to be recessed, or installed so they are bottomed out in their bore. On my Rover, the previous owner had installed newer style double lip seals and installed them flush and they were ruined the instant the rotor was installed.

Lots of differing opinions on setting the tightness of the wheel bearings. Good luck on choosing a method that works for you. Also, since you're going to the trouble, it wouldn't hurt to remove all the old fluid from your master cylinder, refill with new and then bleed the brakes, you'll get all that old nasty (read corrosive) fluid out of there and be full of fresh new.
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