Brake Switch? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 12th, 2016, 02:25 PM
RBBailey
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Brake Switch?

OK, next question.

I used same tower, but got new master and booster, so somehow the old brake switch I had doesn't work now.

For one, it is plastic crap.

Secondly, just attempting to get it into position to be threaded into the tower causes the switch to open and the brake lights are off, always off.

So, what brake switch do I actually need now?
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  #2  
Old August 12th, 2016, 02:32 PM
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I'm not sure I understand what happened. The brake switch rests on the brake pedal arm. as you push the pedal, the switch closes. Nothing should have changed. All the switches are the same.
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  #3  
Old August 12th, 2016, 02:41 PM
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and plastic is fine
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  #4  
Old August 12th, 2016, 03:05 PM
RBBailey
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Well... the pedal never travels far enough to close the switch. Let alone have it adjusted to where it will close with a gentle tap of the brakes, which would be good.

Is there an adjustment for that contact in the tower?
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  #5  
Old August 12th, 2016, 03:16 PM
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I'm pretty certain there are no adjustments. Do you have the correct booster? That must control how far back the pedal goes. It sounds like the pedal is going back too far.
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Old August 12th, 2016, 03:29 PM
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Fwiw, a post with Brake Switch install instructions: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tml#post672626
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  #7  
Old August 12th, 2016, 04:10 PM
RBBailey
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This is the brake switch I have: PRC4297
This is the booster I have (on recommendation from this board): NRC4772

This is the other type of brake switch: PRC4297G
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  #8  
Old August 12th, 2016, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
This is the brake switch I have: PRC4297
This is the booster I have (on recommendation from this board): NRC4772

This is the other type of brake switch: PRC4297G
That's the same part number with a G at the end.
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  #9  
Old August 12th, 2016, 04:18 PM
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Like I said earlier, there is only one brake light switch used on all models for all years.
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  #10  
Old August 12th, 2016, 04:33 PM
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Yeah, but they are different somehow, they look slightly different.

So the problem must be that I got the wrong booster.... had the wrong booster installed already.......

Any bets on where my next problem will be, and how much more money it will cost? I need whatever coffee or pills you all take to not make stupid mistakes.

The two boosters are right next to one another on the Rovahfarm web site, I looked at Google pictures to match the one I bought, to the old one I pulled from the truck, specifically looked at the mounting studs, etc; but it must be the wrong booster ...so what is the actual way to match these boosters, how would you all have done it? I have no PN to go off of.
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  #11  
Old August 12th, 2016, 04:48 PM
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G just means higher quality, or sometimes genuine. It's the same part as far as fitment

Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
I need whatever coffee or pills you all take to not make stupid mistakes.

Don't assume we don't all make mistakes!
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  #12  
Old August 12th, 2016, 05:12 PM
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I would have a good look over the whole thing and make sure it is all together properly and there is not something weird in the way of the switch. Make sure all the pivots, pins and bushes are in correctly. Make sure the clevis on the boost has not come loose from the shaft.
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  #13  
Old August 12th, 2016, 06:45 PM
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The switch itself has an adjustment in it. Don't thread it in all the way... Needs to be backed off a bit. Oops.. Talking defender.
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  #14  
Old August 12th, 2016, 06:57 PM
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That's the problem, the switch is backed out all the way as far as the threads will go, still has no room to extend to close.

I thought maybe it had an adjustment, but I can't see how. Any ideas?

I've checked the whole area for any issues, can't seem to find anything abnormal about the tower or linkages or whatever. But I wouldn't know, other than just looking for something obvious or loose.
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  #15  
Old August 12th, 2016, 07:54 PM
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Odd... My issue was that it was being pushed too far in ...was wrecking the switch after a while.
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  #16  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 08:14 AM
RBBailey
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I pulled the brake booster, cylinder, and tower, then rebuilt as I could see nothing wrong. Brakes work as intended.

So I then tried both types of brake switches. Neither works.

The pedal still does not travel far enough to ever allow either of the switches to extend so that the brake lights will go on.

This is the same master, same tower, same pedal, and same switch that was taken off the truck last summer. The only difference is the booster.

Evidently the actuating arm on the boosters are different lengths, and I did not know this when I ordered. I thought I was ordering to fit the right bolt pattern on the tower.

So now I am going to try one last thing before dumping this new booster; I'm going to modify the brake switch by grinding down the "button". This will either cause the switch to fall apart, or it will work brilliantly, and save my idiot mistake from costing a lot of money.
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  #17  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 08:24 AM
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Was the non return valve at the same position on the replacement booster?
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  #18  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 09:26 AM
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robert, can we ask you for some photos of your issues? we want to help and we're pretty much flying blind without any kind of visual reference.


without photos of the booster and switches, we can't really help. your cell phone camera can be used to upload photos to the board.
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  #19  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 10:59 AM
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When you get your switch issue addressed, check the pushrod length on the M/C side of the booster. They are adjustable...but I d/n know that and it is not detailed in the manual I have. Mine was set very, very slightly long and caused the brakes to drag after a long drive. Drove me crazy because the problem would go away after the system cooled.
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  #20  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 11:04 AM
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Have you looked at the rod end where the pedal attaches and see if it is adjustable? Have you tried to measure how far away the pedal arm is away from the threaded area of the switch as determine how much change is needed?
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