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  #1  
Old January 1st, 2014, 09:20 AM
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Tyler
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Brake problems. Help!

I've recently encounter a bit of trouble with my NAS 110 brakes. Brake performance was very poor. The rotors were rusted and a caliper was frozen. I replaced pads, rotors, calipers, hoses, and lines. Additionally, the master cylinder and booster were replaced. I still have very weak brakes. A quick check indicates there is vacuum at the booster but I've yet to put a gauge on it. I've triple checked to ensure no air in the lines. Pedal feels good just system seems to lack power. Rear drums are adjusted. Brake parts are OEM except pads. Does anyone think it could be cheap, hard pads? I've order OE pads to install. Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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  #2  
Old January 1st, 2014, 09:46 AM
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Phillip
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Shouldnt be pads, Ive used all different types on Land Rovers. What method did you use to bleed the brakes? Double triple check, probably something obvious, I am betting booster or MC.


I always forget about wheel cylinders
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  #3  
Old January 1st, 2014, 09:54 AM
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Mike Hammond
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110's can be a real so'n'so to bleed.
I finally only got a really firm pedal after I'd replaced the rear wheel brake cylinders.
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Old January 1st, 2014, 10:45 AM
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This is somewhat unsafe, but use a brake line clamp and clamp off the rubber line to the rear and see if it is gets better (do not drive anywhere you will need your brakes like this!). If it does get better, you found your issue.

Check for vacuum leaks too.

I would spring for the disc brakes in the back as drums sort of suck.
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Old January 1st, 2014, 05:51 PM
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Tom Rowe
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Also, with the engine off, pump the brake pedal a few times. After it sits for a while apply the brakes then start the engine. You should feel the pedal move towards the floor. If it doesn't, you have weak/no vacuum.

Also, you say the pedal "seems" good, but that's sort of vague. Before driving it with the rear hose clamped off, clamp off all three and apply the brakes. The pedal should not move hardly at all. Then do it with one removed and note the difference in the pedal travel. Put the clamp back on and try another. A significant increase in travel when one of the the clamps has been removed would point to a fault(most likely air) in that circuit (or in the MC if there is much pedal movement with all three lines clamped off.
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  #6  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 08:28 AM
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Mike Hammond
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Tom's method seems a lot safer method to test the brakes.
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  #7  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 04:34 PM
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Tom Rowe
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Not my method, it's the Land Rover method.
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Tom Rowe
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

62 88 Regular
67 109 6cyl NADA x2
74 Lightweight - The Antichrist
95 DI 5-speed
95 D90 5-speed
97 D1 Automatic
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  #8  
Old January 2nd, 2014, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
Shouldnt be pads, Ive used all different types on Land Rovers. What method did you use to bleed the brakes? Double triple check, probably something obvious, I am betting booster or MC.


I always forget about wheel cylinders
x2. this sure sounds like inadequate vacuum in the servo. with engine off, pull the servo check valve the vacuum line is hooked to out of the grommet. if you don't hear a strong vacuum sucking sound, then your check valve may be shot. BTW, a D2 check valve fits a defender servo just fine, but the line is smaller, but much much cheaper. That's what I have now in mine. installed it in a pinch until my defender version came, but haven't done the swap yet since it works perfect.
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  #9  
Old January 8th, 2014, 08:26 AM
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Tyler
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Blocked the rear brakes off and braking was significantly better. Removed rear wheels to find the cylinders leaking all over the shoes and drums. All new brake parts on the way. Thanks for the hints, everyone.
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  #10  
Old January 8th, 2014, 03:45 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
110's can be a real so'n'so to bleed.
I finally only got a really firm pedal after I'd replaced the rear wheel brake cylinders.
How about that for a long range diagnosis.
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