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  #1  
Old March 22nd, 2018, 02:54 PM
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Andy
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Brake Line Flares

I am in the process of replacing all the brake lines on my '91 110. I could you some advice on the proper way to make a double flare. I bought the Eastwood bench mounted flare tool and have no problem making bubble flares, but the double flares that I am making don't look as good. Can anyone provide the proper steps using Eastwoods' tool to make good double flares? Pictures are of my practice flares with the original to the left of the image and then the lines that I've already installed. Just 5 more to go. Thank you!
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  #2  
Old March 22nd, 2018, 02:59 PM
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What are you using for tubing? I use cupronickel tubing. Use a bit of brake fluid to lube the flare tool and they come out quite nice. Why are you doing double flares? You are using the correct die?
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  #3  
Old March 22nd, 2018, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
What are you using for tubing? I use cupronickel tubing. Use a bit of brake fluid to lube the flare tool and they come out quite nice. Why are you doing double flares? You are using the correct die?
I thought double flare meant making a bubble in the first press and then indenting the bubble with another press? On my tool I use "op #1 DIN" and then went to "op# 2" all 3/16th line and yes, Cupronickel I believe. I was using a little bearing grease for lube. I'm attempting this method to make the end that is used with the female connectors, specifically the end of the center brake line that ends at the flexible brake tube attached to the rear axle.

My first time making flares.
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  #4  
Old March 22nd, 2018, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
What are you using for tubing? I use cupronickel tubing. Use a bit of brake fluid to lube the flare tool and they come out quite nice. Why are you doing double flares? You are using the correct die?
Quote:
Originally Posted by RhinoRover View Post
I thought double flare meant making a bubble in the first press and then indenting the bubble with another press? On my tool I use "op #1 DIN" and then went to "op# 2" all 3/16th line and yes, Cupronickel I believe. I was using a little bearing grease for lube. I'm attempting this method to make the end that is used with the female connectors, specifically the end of the center brake line that ends at the flexible brake tube attached to the rear axle.

My first time making flares.
I'm using 3/16" (4.75mm) cupronickel, but was practicing with the original LR line.

Pic is of the tool that I am using which is exactly like Eastwood's tool, I believe.
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  #5  
Old March 22nd, 2018, 04:41 PM
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The bubble flare die should make the bubble flare in one go. It does on my tool anyway. Don't use grease as it can mess up the brakes. Use brake fluid for lube.
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  #6  
Old March 22nd, 2018, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RhinoRover View Post
Pictures are of my practice flares with the original to the left of the image and then the lines that I've already installed.
Is it just me or does the original in your pictures look like a bubble flare, not a double flare?

You're using the terms interchangeably, and your description of the operations is a double flare?
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  #7  
Old March 22nd, 2018, 05:39 PM
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Red rubber grease.
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  #8  
Old March 22nd, 2018, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The bubble flare die should make the bubble flare in one go. It does on my tool anyway. Don't use grease as it can mess up the brakes. Use brake fluid for lube.
I'm obviously confused, but I think I made it all happen. I don't know the nomenclature but I think I was able to make it work. Mine doesn't make the flare pictured below in one press. I added a picture of the one I made with two presses and installed it onto the truck. We'll see if it works tomorrow once I finish the front lines. Thanks Red!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Is it just me or does the original in your pictures look like a bubble flare, not a double flare?

That's what I'm gathering, but I'd sure like to know for sure so I don't sound like a dummy

You're using the terms interchangeably, and your description of the operations is a double flare?
?? I think I'll watch some youtube videos or something to school myself a little better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roverman2010 View Post
Red rubber grease.



All - Here's a picture of the practice flare that I ended up using. We'll see if it holds when I charge the system.
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  #9  
Old March 22nd, 2018, 09:57 PM
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The eastwood tool is a three step tool. I have the same tool. Your last flare looks great.

Step 0 (head has a flat face for step 0) you move the handle to slide the tubbing back in the dies so it is correctly positioned and then tighten the clamps.
Step 1 rotate the head to step 1 3/16th starts the bubble flare
Step 2 rotate the head to step 2 for 3/16 and move the handle to complete the flare.

You rotate the head and move the handle through its range on ea step. Results should be a perfect double flare.
You show the tool closed- flip one of the dies over and show us which ones you are using.
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  #10  
Old March 23rd, 2018, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
The eastwood tool is a three step tool. I have the same tool. Your last flare looks great.

Step 0 (head has a flat face for step 0) you move the handle to slide the tubbing back in the dies so it is correctly positioned and then tighten the clamps.
Step 1 rotate the head to step 1 3/16th starts the bubble flare
Step 2 rotate the head to step 2 for 3/16 and move the handle to complete the flare.

You rotate the head and move the handle through its range on ea step. Results should be a perfect double flare.
You show the tool closed- flip one of the dies over and show us which ones you are using.
Thanks Doug! Those are exactly the steps that I ended up performing. I ended up using both the DIN and the 45 deg. I used the 45 deg. side for the female connectors because the inside of the connector had what looked to be a 45 deg. end. I wish I could test it before I continue with the front, but I am beyond that already. I feel good about it though. It's nice to be able to produce one's own lines. We don't normally have to worry about brake lines here in Colorado with the lack of road salt being used. For instance, I have a Colorado native Series IIA that still retains its original brake lines in nearly pristine condition. I had to replace the lines on this 110 because the lines had corroded at a few points where undercoating had been applied (from England). Specifically on top of the front upper coil mounts where dirt and moisture accumulated and on top of the frame where the central line runs to the rear. That central line was also a little weak at the aft end where it meets the rear brake hose.
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  #11  
Old March 25th, 2018, 12:14 AM
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I just did a few yesterday, mine looked alot like your early ones, reason? I was pulling waaaay to hard on the arm, a simple pull untill you feel it compress the tube then stop, reset the die and and same thing, gentle pull .... . Made all the difference.
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