Brake light on after brake install - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 13th, 2003, 02:49 PM
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Brake light on after brake install

I just fitted vented drilled dba rotors up front and kevlar pads - and the brake light is on (sometimes flickering).

?
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Old October 13th, 2003, 03:11 PM
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Check the fluid?
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first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
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Old October 13th, 2003, 03:12 PM
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Didn't you have this problem before installing them? Actually, I think it was a post by someone else. Anyway, some possiblities can be that you're low on brake fluid, or the sensor connection on your parking brake (in the handle itself) isn't fully connected.

My brake light flickers or will stay on for a while because I probably have a small short in the wiring in the parking brake. This happened as a result of removing the brake a while back. Hope this helps.

Oh yeah Wicks, do you happen to have the Part Numbers for the seals and pins necessary for the install? I need to slpa on my DBA's but don't have the P/N's. Also, did you stay with vented rotors up front or did you go solid all the way around? Thanks Wicks.

DJ
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Old October 13th, 2003, 03:47 PM
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Thanks Hippert! Yeah, didn't fill enough after bleeding.

And DJ I went with the dba's up front only (with kevlar pads). Just a fresh set of pads on the rear. THey stop about 140% or previous - great upgrade for an automatic rover.

No seals had to be replaced - would have been an ideal time to do it, but I only have 50K miles so left them. Seemed in good shape. Pins? No pins replaced.
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Old October 13th, 2003, 06:20 PM
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Thanks Wicks! The pins I was refering to clamp the pads to the caliper. My D90 just rolled 90K so I thought I'd some preventive replacing while I was swapping out the rotors.

Oh, about how long did it take you to do this by yourself? 30-min/rotor?

DJ
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Old October 13th, 2003, 06:31 PM
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No, DJ, this is a very long job. The first side took about 3.5 hours, and the second about 2.5, but I was doing shocks as well. For just rotors, pads, I'd guess 4 hours if you work steadily and fast.

ps - Put the hub into an upside-down tire/wheel on the ground to break rotor bolts loose. Gradually pound hub out of old rotor with mallet.

pss- Mark the inner bearing nut ("hub nut") before loosening, so you know how tight it was when refitting.

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Old October 13th, 2003, 07:01 PM
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DJ I change all the seals in the rear just before 100k I also did the brakes. The seals started leaking. And like Wicks said getting the rotors off is a PITA I was lucky enough to have a huge vise to put it in so I could beat it with a mallet. I got all the seals at Rovers North, I just told them I needed all the seals and they had a kit.
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