Brake/Friction Pad (and maybe Brake Disc/Rotor) Replacement - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 02:40 PM
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Joshua
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Brake/Friction Pad (and maybe Brake Disc/Rotor) Replacement

Anyone near Hoboken, NJ want to get their hands dirty with me? Or have some of the necessary tools so I don't go buy them just for this project?

Going to try to tackle my first actual project on the truck. Brakes squeled intermittently a few weeks back, and then front passenger felt "crunchy" at slow-speed braking...also a few weeks back. Then on my way out to visit Gery to work on the door tops 2 weeks ago I almost missed the beer store and had to slam on the brakes to pick up some Brooklyn Lager. Almost immediately after it sounded like metal on metal in that front-passenger wheel well.

Almost completely certain the brake pad/friction pad split due to age, or just reached minimum thickness (3mm or .125 in) and now replacement is necessary. The problem was that I drove the truck the hour home from his place (haven't really driven her since except for alternate street parking), and it appears the metal-on-metal contact has created some lines against the rotor where caliper and rotor meet.

Questions:
How do I know if the rotor needs to be replaced as well?

Recommended Disc Brake Lubricant for Lockheed? Not stated in manuals.

In looking to buy things from AB, I found the following, but would like some suggestions as well.
Which would you buy? Replace all 4 pads, replace only front 2 Lockheed, upgrade all (Lockheed and Girling)? Maybe it's just the anti-rattle springs, but I won't know until I get in there.

Looking here:
http://www.roverparts.com/Nxt/search...ategory=BRAKES

Need to buy one or more of the following:
1. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC2952EBC.cfm
2. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC9188EBCX.cfm
3. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/SFP000270G.cfm
4. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9995F.cfm
5. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9983DEFFR.cfm
6. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9995EBC.cfm
7. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9995A.cfm

Also tools.
-Need to purchase axle stands (two for now, two for later projects)
-186672 - Piston Clamp. Necessary?
-Hose clamp? What are you guys using?
-More Brooklyn Lager
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  #2  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 02:59 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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I could help out... but I will need a good amount of brooklyn lager if you want to replace rotors too. IF you want to do rotors then you will see how to also do your wheel bearings too. Brakes pads are easy and a nice small project to get your hands wet. Feel the rotors first and see if there is a deep lip on the surface. If there is a large lip you may want to replace them, but it could just need new pads. thats like a 6 pack

Get a 12 point 13mm socket for the calipers. That is a tool you will want to keep in the shed.
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  #3  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 03:14 PM
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Jason England
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Josh ... If you buy a set I'll buy the rear rotors, pads and associated bits from you!
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  #4  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 03:38 PM
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Before you order anything, you should remove the tire in question (or all 4) and inspect everything. Maybe take a picture of the caliper and pads and post it. They could be scarily thin but you won't know until you inspect it more closely. If you're doing rotors too, you'll want to repack the wheel bearings while you have the hubs off.

British Pacific has the hub wrench tool that allows you to get a torque wrench on it. That was helpful for me when putting the hubs back on. I just used the shop manual torque settings as opposed to doing it by feel which some people do.
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  #5  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 04:23 PM
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Cool. Thanks guys. I've been getting home late from work and sports every night, or else I would have had pics up by now! Tonight will be no different, but I'll try to pop up early to get in there to take some pics.
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  #6  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 05:00 PM
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barry f
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Personally this is a big first job especially if you don't any tools yet. You want a good floor jack etc. I have everything for this but I still brought it in. Rovers suck as you have to take apart the hub to get the rotors off, then repack etc. Messy etc.

I would take it in to a shop to find out what you need to start (rotors and pads, just rotors), get an estimate etc. Most shops will check your brakes for free when you get an oil change. I f you just need pads it is easy. If you need rotors different story.
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  #7  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Personally this is a big first job especially if you don't any tools yet..
No way...dont be a puss. I say go for it. You are obviously devoted and will get experience. You dont 'need' a floorjack. But tools you will. There is nothing tricky about changing the brakes... setting the preload takes some feel but you will need to do it sooner or later so why not now!

Good advice earlier. take some pictures of the brake/calipers and post up before you dig in.
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  #8  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user View Post
No way...dont be a puss. I say go for it. You are obviously devoted and will get experience. You dont 'need' a floorjack. But tools you will. There is nothing tricky about changing the brakes... setting the preload takes some feel but you will need to do it sooner or later so why not now!

Good advice earlier. take some pictures of the brake/calipers and post up before you dig in.
Biggest issue I have had with any work on truck is not having the right tools. No way I would pull this apart without owning a floor jack, socket set, hub tool etc. If someone else has the tools no big deal
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  #9  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 05:40 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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Right tools do help, but if you have the land rover jack you can do one wheel at a time. It is a fun job to do because you get to know your braking system and wheel bearings. The wheel bearing system is a nice one to know as they like to go sometimes if you run larger wheels or like to off road it a lot. Wheel bearings can be a pain in the ass, but after you do about a bakers dozen you get the preload down just right.

Josh, I have all the tools you need to do the job and you can take them if you need. depends on my weekends coming up, but i may be free to help out on a wheel or two and let you do the rest and use the tools.
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  #10  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 05:51 PM
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Brad Harris
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Buy the tools...

These are tools you should own anyway... (you could skip the floor jack but I wouldn't do it without some jack-stands)

replacing rotors and thus getting the chance to repack the bearings is a really messy job but it's not hard

Many people would do as Barry suggests because you really have to commit to a job like that and it really sucks in many ways... and you may not realize how bad it sucks until you're in the middle of it but by then you're committed... but if you can get to enjoy it a little or at least not to mind it too much it's a good idea to do yourself..
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  #11  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 06:03 PM
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The only thing that sucks about doing this job is separating the rotor from the hub. Sometimes it isn't even a pain in the ass. I've had ones that take some real banging with a hammer, and others that just came off no problem. Wheel bearings just take some time to repack. If you're not replacing the races, it's easy.

There's no reason to not do this yourself, especially if you plan on doing repairs yourself in the future. Just get yourself some tools, a friend to help out (preferably who has done it before), and dive in. There's nothing more valuable than knowing your truck.

EDIT: Oh and, if you're doing rotors, make sure you have brake cleaner. You'll ruin your nice new set of pads if you don't get the oil off them before you put everything back together.
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  #12  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 06:19 PM
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Having a driveway also helps. Also don't borrow tools otherwise you might get them back with huge dents in them. Not that anyone in this thread put a huge dent in my floor jack or anything.

i will never use brake cleaner again. After doing the rear brakes in the 110 I decided there are just some things worth paying someone else to do.
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  #13  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 08:59 PM
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Unless the rotors are thin, a couple scratches won't hurt and will wear away in a few thousand miles. You need a bit prybar or screwdriver, some pliars and a big hammer to do pads. I put a dab of antisieze on the ends of the pad where they rub against the caliper. Also, get a can of brake clean, some good rags and a wire brush.

I can do front pads in about 30mins.

Here is my "ron good" method.

Open hood.
Remove cap from MC.
Remove wheel.
Remove pins and clips from pads.
Wire brush caliper.
Spray with brake clean and wipe off.
Remove one pad (use pliars to pull out).
Spray brake clean on pistons and wipe them down until they are spotless.
Remove other pad.
Spray with brakeclean and wipe down pistons until spot less.
Replace both used pads.
[crack bleed screw -- optional but recommended)
Take screwdriver and use as lever on an old pad to fully compress (make sure other old pad is in place or you may pop the opposite pistons out of caliper).
Insert new pad.
Use screw driver and lever on other pad.
Inset new pad.
Install retaining hardware.
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  #14  
Old June 22nd, 2010, 09:56 PM
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Sent you a PM.
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  #15  
Old June 29th, 2010, 09:16 PM
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Finally got the tire off this evening and took a few pics. Confirmed that it's metal on metal. The rotor has been flecking with the metal-on-metal, and those little flecks have been rusting when it rains.
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  #16  
Old June 29th, 2010, 11:05 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Yeah, time for new rotors. Get some help, but this is definitely a DIY job. Get a cheap hub socket - the kind you turn with a screwdriver through the holes work just fine.
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  #17  
Old June 30th, 2010, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cellulararrest View Post
The only thing that sucks about doing this job is separating the rotor from the hub.
To help prevent this from happening in the future, brush some anti-seize on the mating surface (only). Also some anti seize on the surface of the lug nuts where they meet the alloy wheels when seated helps keep them from bonding to the wheel if they rust.
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  #18  
Old June 30th, 2010, 01:37 PM
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You need to reseat your springs while you are there
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  #19  
Old June 30th, 2010, 01:55 PM
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Yeah, thanks for the heads up. Didn't see it while I had the wheel off, but noticed later last night when I was looking over the pictures, and checking out what dogfood1 (Found90) had done recently.

http://found90.files.wordpress.com/2.../img_53642.jpg

http://found90.wordpress.com/
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  #20  
Old June 30th, 2010, 02:06 PM
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where are you going to do the work? make sure it is in a spot where you can leave it apart if need be. Obviously get jack stands for piece of mind. I have bought most tools as I needed them from Sears. Craftsman makes some good stuff.
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