Brake/Friction Pad (and maybe Brake Disc/Rotor) Replacement - Page 3 - Defender Source
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  #41  
Old July 1st, 2010, 09:05 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Don't drive it anymore. Once you have metal on metal, they will heat up quickly and then seize.
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  #42  
Old July 1st, 2010, 09:26 AM
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Joshua
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Thanks Charles. Thought for sure that was going to happen when I had to drive home from Gery's place. Thank god it didn't.

Sucks not being able to drive her more than the alternate street parking driving I've been doing once/twice a week. Ordering kit today.
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  #43  
Old July 1st, 2010, 10:11 AM
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I'll echo what others are saying Josh - you need someplace that you can work on this and not feel pressured to finish in a very short time-frame. Granted my project is more involved (removal and refinishing the calipers, etc...) but shit happens, and when it does, sometimes taking a break for a couple hours (or days in my case) is what you need to keep a clear head. And you never know what parts might break, not come off easily or be the wrong size when you open the box.

I'll add a x2 when you've never done something like this, and you're not sure you have all the tools you need. It's just IMHO a recipie for anger and frustration. It might also force you to make decisions that are not smart, just to get it put back together.

Think Zen Land Rover Repair. Deep Breaths. Lotus position optional. Beer, mandatory....

Call me if you want to talk through what I've been doing the last couple weeks : )

Jerod
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  #44  
Old July 1st, 2010, 11:30 AM
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Just know that nothing ever goes right or is easy on Land Rovers so expect to run into some sorta issue. If you don't have the place, time or tools, just take it somewhere to have the brakes done. Having Rover Rage is never fun.
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Beluga 97 D-90
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  #45  
Old September 14th, 2010, 03:12 PM
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So I'm gonna tackle this very same project, and just curious if you ever finished this or if your truck is still up on those sweet jack stands Josh.
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  #46  
Old September 14th, 2010, 03:15 PM
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I've done the pads (yes, they actually WERE easy), no rotors yet.

I would recommend a helper for bleeding the brakes though. I had never had experience doing that (aside from being the brake "pumper") and having someone who knew what he was doing was very helpful. Don't want to mess around with your brakes!
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  #47  
Old September 14th, 2010, 03:19 PM
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Thanks, will keep searching threads. Doing the whole shabang. Will definitely recruit a helper, i have a gearhead neighbor who I just watched replace an engine in his Ford Expl. Guessing he has the skillz and I've already shared a sixer with him, so the stage is set for a lifelong friendship.
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  #48  
Old September 14th, 2010, 03:20 PM
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I have some useful youtube videos that I should e-mail you for "the whole shabang"

------ Follow up post added September 14th, 2010 03:30 PM ------

Found one e-mail I had sent to myself. I had a bunch more I had found, but this was the most useful IMO.

Checking and replacing wheel bearings on Land Rover Defender
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  #49  
Old October 10th, 2010, 08:41 PM
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Brake Job List

The good news is that the learning curve isn't too steep on this job, and I'm pretty much a mechanical moron. First one took me almost three hours, second one took me about half that. Be forewarned, it's a messy job.

Just thought I would put together a list of stuff needed for this job - so you don't end up needing to go to store in the middle of your job - like I always do....

Hopefully I'm not forgetting anything....and a piece of advice - try not to twist/break the hard brake pipes/lines that connect the calipers to the brake hoses....


Tools
1) Jack Stands
2) Wrenches/Ratchet Set (I think I used 13-21mm sockets)
3) Hub Nut tool (or 2-1/8" socket will work)
4) Retaining ring removal tool
5) Grease gun
6) Latex Gloves
7) Rags – lots of them
8) Wire wheel

Parts/materials (besides pads/rotors/hoses)
1) Pad fitting kit
2) Hub seal kit
3) High temp gasket seal
4) Grease
5) Brake clean
6) Brake fluid
7) Anti-sieze
8) Check your tie rod ball joints before you order your brake kits…if they are bad, may as well replace them at the same time.

9) Plenty of Bourbon
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  #50  
Old February 17th, 2011, 07:38 PM
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barry f
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
OK so now that we established that I need one new rotor, do you guys think it makes sense to upgrade to the EBC vented rotors and EBC pads now that one needs replacing? Pads-wise I've read general consensus is to stick with genuine.
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Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
I've done the pads (yes, they actually WERE easy), no rotors yet.

I would recommend a helper for bleeding the brakes though. I had never had experience doing that (aside from being the brake "pumper") and having someone who knew what he was doing was very helpful. Don't want to mess around with your brakes!

Horsey,

Care for a rebuttal?
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #51  
Old March 15th, 2011, 11:09 PM
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Joshua
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Well, I figured I'd update this. It really wasn't that bad. Having Tom's experience and help while we worked on them was invaluable, and made the whole project quite a bit of fun. Some of the things I was nervous about were properly repacking the bearings, reseating the seals, and some other odds and ends. Tom volunteered his driveway and his time and help to get it done, and I really enjoyed learning how to do it. Each thing I do on the truck gives me a little more confidence.

I bought the whole kit from Atlantic British. I bought kit http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9995F.cfm at a discount because I pointed out that they were selling basically all the same parts under http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9995A.cfm for a lot cheaper.

Anyway, one of the things I was worried about, seating the seal properly, can be easily accomplished by placing the grease seal on the brake disc, and using the drive member to push down on and seat the grease seal in the Brake disc at 4mm...it should work just about every time. After that, check that it is evenly seated and at 4mm. Easy!

http://www.fag.hiof.no/~frodehaa/pic...semblyRR90.jpg

I know I posted it above, but this video was invaluable, and actually had that exact step performed a few times in the video, but I always missed it until Tom pointed it out as a viable shortcut.



Degreasing everything was a little messy, used up a bunch of doubled-up vinyl gloves, and I wanted to make sure I was doing a thorough job, so I probably took a little longer with all of the bolts and bits cleaning everything, but it was worth it.

The spanners or circlip pliers were the most useless bits in the whole process, and a big pain on the first wheel.

Repacking the bearings was the most fun part of the whole process, and I was glad I had watched the videos available on Youtube so many times to get a good technique. I could see one of my nephews having a great time doing the bearings with all of the grease involved. And before you ask, Barry...no you cannot try to set them up with your daughter.

Anyway, here are some pics. We were lucky enough to be able to just move the calipers over a little and take some zip ties to secure them to the springs while the rest of the work was being done. I haven't driven on them much since, but will be out this weekend with the top off the truck, so I'll be sure to listen for any odd sounds. In a few hundred miles I'll also check all of the bolts and things to make sure that nothing is coming loose, as I've heard that can happen.
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  #52  
Old March 15th, 2011, 11:13 PM
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Oh, Jerod also gave me some good info a while back I should share.
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #53  
Old March 15th, 2011, 11:15 PM
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From Jerod:

You need a couple specialized tools: 1. You need a pair of spanners or similar circlip pliers to remove the circlips on the front. I was able to borrow some. If you can, I highly recommend it, because short of disassembling Land Rover brakes and adjusting bottom brackets on bicycles, you may never use them again. 2. Either a big channel-locks or a specialized 2 1/16? hub removal tool. I bought one from a jeep supply company for $10, but I have yet to check and see if it fits. It should. 3. An air compressor and impact gun/socket set will save you tons of time and effort.

4. Parts of this project will suck. You have to remove the caliper, which is held by 2 @13mm star shaped nuts. You will need to buy a 13mm and 14mm 12-point socket. It's tight behind the caliper, so be sure to have the truck up on jack stands. The 14mm is for separating the rotor from the hub. A breaker bar also would help....
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  #54  
Old March 15th, 2011, 11:28 PM
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Hey, thanks for the shout-out!

Glad you finally got your rotors on. When did you do it?

Did everything go as planned, or did you have something go wrong?
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  #55  
Old March 16th, 2011, 12:03 AM
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Well done Horsey for doing it yourself and doing a decent write up. You are still a fag for not admitting how you put it off or for the fact you got called out on it.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #56  
Old March 16th, 2011, 11:29 AM
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Removing the caliper was the part that sucked!?!? Getting the rotor off the hub sucked. Wire wheeling all of the dirty encrusted parts sucked. Degreasing sucked. Loosening bolts sucked. Hell, taking tires off and putting them back on with those damn capped lug nuts sucks.

But I will say that by the time you get to your third of fourth rotor, it's all a walk in the park.
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  #57  
Old March 16th, 2011, 11:34 AM
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thomas
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It's not all that bad. I just hate putting the circlip back on. I think I need to upgrade my $7 tool from autozone...
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  #58  
Old March 16th, 2011, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNinety View Post
Removing the caliper was the part that sucked!?!? Getting the rotor off the hub sucked. Wire wheeling all of the dirty encrusted parts sucked. Degreasing sucked. Loosening bolts sucked. Hell, taking tires off and putting them back on with those damn capped lug nuts sucks.

But I will say that by the time you get to your third of fourth rotor, it's all a walk in the park.
Oh yeah. the calipers were rusted into solid blocks. The bolts are so inaccessable that only hand tools could get back there. I used pb blaster, sledgehammers, pipe extensions on the socket, heat...it was a frigging nightmare. I was lucky to get one loosened per day for about 2 weeks. Surprisingly, I didn't break any of them!

The rotors/hubs sucked, but I wasn't trapped under the truck, and I could use my air tools (and sledgehammer.) I have to say, the big ass old Craftsman compressor I bought off Cragislist was the single most valuable tool I had for most of the work I did on my truck.
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  #59  
Old March 16th, 2011, 11:53 AM
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Huh, that's weird...if I compared my brake job to a girl, the calipers were the panties. No problems getting them off whatsoever, once you get that far. I guess the prior owner must have had them off recently.....
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  #60  
Old March 16th, 2011, 12:03 PM
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Yeah, getting the calipers could definitely be a challenge. Mine were/are not rusted at all, but I still needed a pipe extension to get in there to get the two bolts out. I forget if it was the lower one that was more of a problem, because it was so close to the bottom of the spring. Getting them back on was a bit of a pain, just trying to ge an idea of when the holes were lined up for the calipers. I'd rather deal with that than rusted blocks though.

Yeah, the lug nuts with the caps was a pain, but mostly because the shop torqued them down way too hard. I volunteered to put my calf muscles to work, but Tom was able to use gravity and air tools to get them off.
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