brake caliper bolt problem - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old April 22nd, 2008, 10:43 PM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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brake caliper bolt problem

I started to swap the front calipers on my 110 to the 90 front version so I can run vented rotors. To my pleasant surprise the top 12 point bolt head is stripped. Short of removing the entire outer from the axle tube and dealing with it, does anyone have a suggestion?
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  #2  
Old April 22nd, 2008, 11:05 PM
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Peter Sherman
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http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...3374_200263374
try one of these or weld a bolt to it
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  #3  
Old April 22nd, 2008, 11:15 PM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtracer
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...3374_200263374
try one of these or weld a bolt to it
thanks, I'll take a look again but my first impression was that it would be hard to weld a bolt to it in that recessed area.
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  #4  
Old April 23rd, 2008, 09:26 AM
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Peter Sherman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteD90
thanks, I'll take a look again but my first impression was that it would be hard to weld a bolt to it in that recessed area.
it ain't going to be easy
ok jb weld a socket to it
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  #5  
Old April 23rd, 2008, 09:30 AM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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you got that right!
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  #6  
Old April 23rd, 2008, 09:31 AM
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Peter Sherman
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jb weld works just kinda fubars the socket
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  #7  
Old April 23rd, 2008, 12:16 PM
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steve
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In very tight locations banging a smaller socket on to the bolt has worked for me. Only problem is that those caliper bolts can require a lot of torq to get off.

you may need to weld something to it. good luck
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  #8  
Old April 23rd, 2008, 12:40 PM
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Jim Cheney
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That sux. Welcome to the world of 110 ownership. I had a brake line break when I was replacing the cluch master. Yes, those are scarcely related systems, but it turns out that my DS front brake line was paper-thin by the shock tower and the slightest disturbance of the master broke it. Please inspect your truck carefully. Also, I think that hammering a 12mm onto it and impacting the socket off will do the job. Naturally, this should be a harbor frieght socket and not a Hazet one.
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  #9  
Old April 23rd, 2008, 01:19 PM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
That sux. Welcome to the world of 110 ownership. I had a brake line break when I was replacing the cluch master. Yes, those are scarcely related systems, but it turns out that my DS front brake line was paper-thin by the shock tower and the slightest disturbance of the master broke it. Please inspect your truck carefully. Also, I think that hammering a 12mm onto it and impacting the socket off will do the job. Naturally, this should be a harbor frieght socket and not a Hazet one.

Yeah, I'm with you and the crap factor of the brakes. I'm actually surprised this thing stops at all based on the rust on the disc where the pad is obviously not contacting the disc.

It can't hurt to try the 12mm socket although the bottom bolt required the use of a 3ft breaker bar to loosen. I did PB Blaster the top one so we'll see.
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  #10  
Old April 23rd, 2008, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtracer
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...3374_200263374
try one of these or weld a bolt to it
x2 I have a set of these and they work wonders. I'd try them before welding. Welding can weaken the bold and it could snap off so it has to be drilled out. On the + side, the heat might loosen it enough it will come out without breaking.
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  #11  
Old April 23rd, 2008, 03:43 PM
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Just hold your mouth right-------------

Or tuck back that tumor so you can see what you are doing-----Bad taste------I know
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  #12  
Old April 23rd, 2008, 05:24 PM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
Just hold your mouth right-------------

Or tuck back that tumor so you can see what you are doing-----Bad taste------I know

It's not a toooma!
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  #13  
Old April 23rd, 2008, 07:20 PM
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Mike Hansen
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Been there before...

I welded an oversized nut on the bolt head, the bigger the treaded hole in the nut the better the plug weld to the stripped bolt. I think the heat also helps lossen it up.

Good Luck

MH
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  #14  
Old April 24th, 2008, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
Just hold your mouth right-------------

Or tuck back that tumor so you can see what you are doing-----Bad taste------I know
Pendy: That was lower than Whail Shit. Even for you.

Thanks for helping me shore up the list of friends I will have in Hell
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  #15  
Old April 24th, 2008, 02:15 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Heat, apply lots of heat- LR used stud lock on lots of those bolts in the factory and they shear off rather than come out... ended up buying a new swivel housing as it was easier than drilling out everthing that had sheared when I was re-shimming the bearings in the swivel
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  #16  
Old April 24th, 2008, 02:24 PM
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Heat plus bolt-out thing will work. Or the ever popular air chisel as a wrench method . . . .
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  #17  
Old April 26th, 2008, 12:30 PM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtracer
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...3374_200263374
try one of these or weld a bolt to it

With great skepticism, I went and purchased this kit...Bowtracer you are the man!!! Miraculously this rounded, rust siezed bolt came right out on the first try. You made my weekend man, thanks!
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  #18  
Old April 26th, 2008, 01:38 PM
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Peter Sherman
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Well in Chitown we have our share of rusted SHIT! Glad it worked! I am sure you will like the upgrade as well!
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  #19  
Old April 28th, 2008, 01:29 PM
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Barry O'Mahony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowtracer
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...3374_200263374
try one of these or weld a bolt to it
BTDT. Those extractors work great.

Part of the problem I've had in the past is with the placement of those bolts, with the head facing away from me, is remembering to turn the bolt in the right direction. I've mangled the head up in the past, and then realizing that I was turning it in the wrong direction.
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  #20  
Old April 28th, 2008, 01:47 PM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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newest problem of this conversion. The 12 point 13mm bolt that came out of the stock 110 caliper mount is coarse thread. All the bolts I have from the 94 D90 caliper mount are 12 point 13mm but fine thread. Both bolts appear to be identical except for coarse vs fine thread.
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