Bosch VE sticking guide pin advice - Defender Source
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Old November 24th, 2015, 11:22 PM
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Bosch VE sticking guide pin advice

Pretty sure my guide pin is sticking and won't come all the way out for max fueling. this would explain my lack of top end power loss over the summer. I pulled the eccentric a few weeks ago and tried to get at from the inside with pb blaster, but having read up on it, sounds like it really needs aggressive lube to get rid of crud and get lube on the pin's o-ring.

I've read recommendations to fill the boost diaphragm up with oil/diesel and work the pin til it's loose, then remove the oil/diesel. Also read about removing the throttle linkage, then removing the allen button screw, and working the pin from the front.

Anyone have tips/advice? I didn't even know this was a common thing, but sounds like it happens alot to engines with this IP, to include the non-Rovers (ram, etc0. I never really heard about it discussed on this forum, when people talk about loss of power under boost.

Le'ts raise awareness, particularly since it's so easy to check.
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  #2  
Old November 25th, 2015, 12:20 PM
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It's been awhile but I've had a VE pump completely apart. There's really not a whole lot going on inside of one, the most important thing is is to keep it clean inside and take pictures as you disassemble. The pump body has no fluid pressure inside it at anytime. Pressure is developed in the "head" of the pump (usually iron & the part where the fuel is distributed to the valves that then send the measured fuel to the injectors.
I did my work onto of butcher paper. Cloth or paper towel fibers left inside the pump is a bad thing. If the pump was built pre 1998 and has not been rebuilt, which basically means replacing the seals & gaskets, I'm surprised it's not leaking everywhere there's a seal. Buy a rebuild kit which is mostly seals and there will be extra items in the kit that you won't use. That spring set up under the throttle arm ..... Look at it carefully and take picture of it from several angles, count the number of turns on the spring. For me this was the hardest thing to get right. The bearing in the front is pressed in so you'll have to deal with that. Check the shaft that goes through that bearing & make sure it's not worn. There's a lot of force on this bearing because of the timing belt attached on the front of it.
Before you crack the IP case open, get the outer surfaces TOTALLY clean as there are many nooks & crannies on the thing. This will be the only place serious grit can come from & get into the internals once you take the top plate off. There are no "loaded" springs inside that will go flying when you take the top cap off. But slow and careful are the orders of the day when working on one.
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Old November 25th, 2015, 12:29 PM
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Brake cleaner...
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Old November 25th, 2015, 01:26 PM
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Thanks for responses, but I'm talking about the horizontal pin that rides on the eccentric cone in the boost diaphragm. No disassembly required.
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Old November 25th, 2015, 01:30 PM
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What a PITA! Was your truck sitting for a while?
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Old November 25th, 2015, 01:33 PM
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all summer waiting to get sorted on a head gasket diagnosis at an indi. Now that I'm aware of the problem, I think it's been progressivily sticking more and more over time, which apparently they do as they develop crud and such in the pin well.

with the diaphragm out, if I pop the throttle linkage, it'll pop out a bit, just not all the way, so I'm not getting full fueling from boost. if I work the pin in and out with a flathead, I can feel a bit of resistance. I'm just looking for best way to lube it based on experience.

there's plenty of Uk threads on the topic.
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Old November 25th, 2015, 01:35 PM
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Spray some cleaner in there and then blow it out. Then spray in some lube. I seriously doubt you are going to find any magic expert advice....
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Old November 25th, 2015, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
all summer waiting to get sorted on a head gasket diagnosis at an indi. Now that I'm aware of the problem, I think it's been progressivily sticking more and more over time, which apparently they do as they develop crud and such in the pin well.

with the diaphragm out, if I pop the throttle linkage, it'll pop out a bit, just not all the way, so I'm not getting full fueling from boost. if I work the pin in and out with a flathead, I can feel a bit of resistance. I'm just looking for best way to lube it based on experience.

there's plenty of Uk threads on the topic.
When I've just had the aneroid top off, I only put a light coat of white lithium grease on the cone surface that contacts the pin.

Are you sure your getting full boost pressure to the aneroid, without that the cone won't travel as it should. Is the aneroid rubber vent blocked?
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Old November 25th, 2015, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post

When I've just had the aneroid top off, I only put a light coat of white lithium grease on the cone surface that contacts the pin.

Are you sure your getting full boost pressure to the aneroid, without that the cone won't travel as it should. Is the aneroid rubber vent blocked?
Hmmm, good point. Ill have to check. I have checked for blockage in the boost line to diaphragm. And the pin is a bit sticky. But ill check that rubber boot as well. Thanks.
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Old November 25th, 2015, 04:46 PM
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Is the diaphragm in good order & flexible, it also need to seal well against the lower mating surface.
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Old November 25th, 2015, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
Is the diaphragm in good order & flexible, it also need to seal well against the lower mating surface.
Yep. Great shape. Tested diaphragm and lines with a pressure tester
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