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  #1  
Old January 20th, 2009, 05:29 PM
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Philip Marshall
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bolts are breaking!

I am trying to replace the gas tank cradle, as the one that is on my rig is completely rusted through. I have been soaking the bolts for several days in WD40, but they are still sheering off! (!@#$!%@$) I have seen the "extractors" at sears, will those work? I have heard mixed reviews on them, and wanted your expert opinions before I make the purchase...

Would a good impact wrench get them out with out breaking them? (kinda too late for that, but worth asking...)
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  #2  
Old January 20th, 2009, 05:35 PM
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Scott
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Phil,

I would soak them in PB Blaster... WD 40 is really a water dryer and very mild lubricant. The bolt extractors will work, but will take a good bit of patience too.
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  #3  
Old January 20th, 2009, 05:38 PM
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Philip Marshall
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so I should use the PB Blaster, and then use the extractors? What kind of extractors should I use? Is there a specific brand that is better then the ones that I saw at Sears?
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  #4  
Old January 20th, 2009, 05:41 PM
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barry f
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I hope you don't have a lot of gas in your truck. It makes it more of a pain. Make sure you replace all the bolts with stainless and hopfully you bought either a stainless or galv new cradle.
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  #5  
Old January 20th, 2009, 05:47 PM
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I had one break off on the inside of the crossmember. I ended up having to weld a nut on the back side where the threads were exposed and backed it out of the hole. If you have that capability, then it's not too hard.

And yes, empty the tank!
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  #6  
Old January 20th, 2009, 05:53 PM
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Chris Snyder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravelerBT
Would a good impact wrench get them out with out breaking them? (kinda too late for that, but worth asking...)
Usually yes, but I used an impact on mine and STILL broke 5 out of 6.
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  #7  
Old January 20th, 2009, 06:06 PM
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Got a galvanized one, so that will be nice if I ever get it on there! Has about 1/2 tank in it, so i am thinking I need to strap the tank up so that it doesn't drop out... any suggestions other then that?

Follow-up Post:

Is this the extractor kit that I would need?

http://www.amazon.com/Drill-Out-Powe...2492680&sr=1-9
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  #8  
Old January 20th, 2009, 06:18 PM
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x2 on the PB.
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  #9  
Old January 20th, 2009, 06:24 PM
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I second the pb blaster...just replaced my gas tank guard yesterday and only broke one bolt. My guard was so far gone that it fell apart. I replaced with one from southdown as I have done with my prevoud D-90 and DiscoII. They come with stainless bolts to replace the POS rovers parts. Also make sure low on fuel.

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  #10  
Old January 20th, 2009, 07:22 PM
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Low fuel, PB Blaster are the way to go, soak with PB and loosen a bit, then tighten/loosen again... use this process till you get them out.

A ratchet type hold down strap works great to support the tank.

If broken tap and drill them out,...yes weld on a nut and use this to remove the broken ones.
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  #11  
Old January 20th, 2009, 09:27 PM
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get used to breaking bolts. Wait till you snap off half the collector studs.
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  #12  
Old January 21st, 2009, 12:04 PM
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Has anyone used Kroil? Just wondering if it's better than PB blaster.
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  #13  
Old January 21st, 2009, 07:22 PM
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Yes it's better, probably the best. Schaeffer penetro is also really good.
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  #14  
Old January 22nd, 2009, 07:46 AM
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Don't think that just replacing those bolts with stainless will be the cure. Stainless is not beyond corrosion (especially most of the offshore junk available today) and will snap off just as easily. If you don't put anti seize on whatever you put in, your just wasting money.

Kroil makes PB blaster obsolete.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #15  
Old January 22nd, 2009, 05:38 PM
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Barry O'Mahony
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The reason they break off (at least why mine did, anyway) is dirt/grit that gets on the exposed threads. When you then try to unbolt them, the grit gets wedged into the small gaps in the threads, effectively locking the bolt in place. Apply enough torque and the heads will shear off, because you're not gonna be able to force those grit-embedded threads through the whole way.

The prevention for this is the thoroughly clean the exposed thread of all dirt and grit, before starting to unscrew them. This is relatively easy to do on the front bolts (at least is was on mine). The rears are inaccessible without a bunch of disassembly; so I broke one of mine. It was wedged in so good that using extractors only succeeded in breaking the extractor. That's a real mess, since now you're dealing with hardened steel that cannot be drilled with normal drill bits. My solution was to use a Dremel to make a dimple in the center of the remaining piece (I used a carbide bit to grind out the broken piece of the extractor). I then used left-hand drill bits to drill it out; I kept going up in size until it started moving. It was wedged in so well I ended up using a drill bit that was almost equal to the minor diameter of the bolt.
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  #16  
Old January 22nd, 2009, 06:23 PM
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Or you know, cut off the offending captive nut and weld on a new one.
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  #17  
Old January 22nd, 2009, 06:25 PM
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Clay DeWan
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it is good to know that I am not the only one who swore and had a fit when mine broke. I think I may have drilled new holes and used nuts and bolts where I could rather that continue to screw with the brooken ones.
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