Bolt extractor extractor - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 14th, 2010, 09:57 AM
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Bolt extractor extractor

What a crappy week I'm having. The fuel pump/skid/tow-jaw project has been dragging on forever. One of the M10 hex caps that holds the rear of the skid to the crossmember twisted its head off. In an attempt to remove it, I drilled it out and got the beefiest-looking bolt extractor I could find at Home Depot. That thing didn't last one-half turn before it broke off inside my bolt. Unfortunately, it seems to be made of kryptonite and refuses to be drilled out. Now I'm really screwed.

How could I remove this thing? Buy a new frame?
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  #2  
Old July 14th, 2010, 10:01 AM
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mark kellgren
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I had that happen to me on a hub once. I couldn't drill it out. weak enough to snap, but too strong to drill. I'm gunshy on using extractors now because of that experience.

I had to drill around the extractor to get it out, and I have a helix thread repair waiting to be put back in to retain the same bolt size.

if there's a good tip out there, I'd love to hear it for future reference.
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  #3  
Old July 14th, 2010, 10:18 AM
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Drilling around this one would be really nasty. The threads are in a little square of steel that is welded onto the crossmember. I wonder if this could be ground off and a new piece could be made and welded onto the crossmember.
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  #4  
Old July 14th, 2010, 10:22 AM
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Brad Harris
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The stupid extractors are made extra hard... but then they become brittle so sometimes they'll shatter...

I did do this once, but fortunately enough was left exposed that I could get a pair of vice-grips on to it and got it to turn (with a bunch of liquid wrench)
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  #5  
Old July 14th, 2010, 11:54 AM
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I have been able to free broken extractors through several methods. One is to try to grab it in the flutes with needle nose pliers and turn it in the correct direction to remove it from the screw. The other is to hit it sideways with a smallish pin punch and try to rock it free. If you can make it move at all, you can probably worry it out eventually, depending on how deep it is engaged in the broken bolt.

That said, I think it is a common mistake to go right for the screw extractor. They simply were not intended to remove screws that are rusted or siezed. They are better suited to removing bolts that have broken from overtightening. Yes, they can work on rusted bolts, if appropriate measures are taken. My screw extractor set came with left handed drills. The drills often generate enough heat that they pull the offending piece out themselves.

I use extractors with copious amounts of heat and try not to hork down on them too hard. If you are careful that way they will spin in the hole rather than break off. Any lateral pressure at all and you are finished.

Maybe others' experience is different, but when I successfully used a screw extractor to remove a seized and broken off thermostat housing bolt last year I was so amazed that I actually took photographs of it and posted it on facebook. I can't remember the last time that actually worked.

In the end, in most cases it is a hell of alot easier to drill out and put in a helicoil or other thread repair insert.
Just my $.02.

Good luck with the repair.
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  #6  
Old July 14th, 2010, 12:09 PM
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This may be beyond your skills, but on all my broken bolts in the crossmember, I cut a small hole in the face of the crossmember, weld a washer and nut on the exposed threads of the bolt, and then back the bolt out through the inside of the crossmember. Then just close up the hole in the crossmember, reweld, and polish. Works every time for me.
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  #7  
Old July 14th, 2010, 12:52 PM
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Just cut off the little square plate off the crossmember and drill and tap a new square and weld it on.

Done.

Ron
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  #8  
Old July 14th, 2010, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
I have been able to free broken extractors through several methods. One is to try to grab it in the flutes with needle nose pliers and turn it in the correct direction to remove it from the screw. The other is to hit it sideways with a smallish pin punch and try to rock it free. If you can make it move at all, you can probably worry it out eventually, depending on how deep it is engaged in the broken bolt.
Those rear bolts can be an utter pain in the ass. I did what Ren did and then eventually got to the fustration level that I grabbed a big ol' 12" long punch for breaking concrete and got it in there and hit the hell out of it. I know I snapped a tap and IIRC there was an extractor too but that burly punch would just crack the hardened tap and get into pieces. That and a drill if possible.

If I could do it again I would start spraying the bolts a week ahead and do it every day before hand. And then 1/4 turn at a time back and forth. When I would rush, bolts started to snap. When putting it back together I put as much copper grease as I could for the next time I'm in there.
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  #9  
Old July 14th, 2010, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Just cut off the little square plate off the crossmember and drill and tap a new square and weld it on.
That sounds far too good to be "Ron good".
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  #10  
Old July 14th, 2010, 02:12 PM
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Ron good = functional and simple, perhaps cosmetically challenged. Believe it or not, it is actually the simplest way to deal with broken bolts.

Ron

PS, of course, I used a used square on my D90 from a rusted out crossmember.
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  #11  
Old July 15th, 2010, 12:31 AM
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I think I'm going with the cut-off idea. I don't know how to weld so I will have to get a welder with a truck over here. I'll just get a piece of similar bar stock and cut off a square and then have it welded on. Then I'll just drill and tap. I finally got the tow jaw mounted but decided to wait until this mess is fixed before I re-mount the fuel tank. It's just too big of a pain in the ass to drop the tank again.
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  #12  
Old July 15th, 2010, 07:44 AM
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Chris, Give me a call. I can weld and have a machine shop so may be able to help if you can get her up to New Braunfels. By the way carbide will grind those, they are too hard for a drill.

P.M. Sent.
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  #13  
Old July 15th, 2010, 08:13 AM
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Thanks, Michael. Unfortunately, the truck is stuck in my driveway down here in Alamo Heights because the fuel tank is pulled out. I'm heading out of town for a couple of days but I'm going to try to tackle it with the Dremel tool when I get back. That said, if you know what the little threaded squares look like and can help me make one of those, I would definitely take you up on your offer. I could drive up there when I get back next week.
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  #14  
Old July 15th, 2010, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
What a crappy week I'm having. The fuel pump/skid/tow-jaw project has been dragging on forever. One of the M10 hex caps that holds the rear of the skid to the crossmember twisted its head off. In an attempt to remove it, I drilled it out and got the beefiest-looking bolt extractor I could find at Home Depot. That thing didn't last one-half turn before it broke off inside my bolt. Unfortunately, it seems to be made of kryptonite and refuses to be drilled out. Now I'm really screwed.

How could I remove this thing? Buy a new frame?

Find a suitable sized large washer that you can weld the broken bolt onto, through the centre, careful not to weld to any surrounding metal. After that weld a big nut onto the washer and hopefully you should be able to undo it.

Mike
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