bodywork: annealing and banging - Defender Source
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Old September 12th, 2013, 11:13 PM
CaptMidnite
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Daniel Choi
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bodywork: annealing and banging

Okay, this looks like a good winter project for me. Option #1 is to order replacement wings, primer, paint and bolt on. Option #2 is to heat the aluminum and bang back into shape with body hammers. Is option #2 effective and worth the hassle? I do have the time, as opposed to dropping $$$ on new panels. Anyone have any before/after pictures of heat and hammer bodywork repair on their rig? And, can it be be done with the panels still on the vehicle?
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  #2  
Old September 12th, 2013, 11:18 PM
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buy a new outer and fix the inner.
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Old September 12th, 2013, 11:24 PM
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Leave it. Looks mean.
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  #4  
Old September 12th, 2013, 11:35 PM
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Haha, I knew someone was going to say keep it as is. Because D90 after all.

Found a Youtube video that illustrates the anneal and hammer process well:



I wonder if a propane torch will provide enough heat.

And in the video the guy is feeling the panel with rubber-gloved hands. So, do you work the metal after it has cooled?
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Old September 12th, 2013, 11:48 PM
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I thought about this as well as I have a dent in the same location. I would think you need to remove the panel either way. Remove it, heat it, pound it and see how it looks. If it looks like a fat ladies ass buy a new panel. I think your going to need to paint this either way.
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Old September 13th, 2013, 07:18 AM
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Those wings are cheap on eBay and other places.i think AB or RN sell the ABS version. That spot is a pain in the ass to be able to do what you're trying to do as an inexperienced body panel worker.
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Old September 13th, 2013, 08:00 AM
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I wouldn't spend any time on the outer except for using it to get a feel for how to work the front/inner. Outers are inexpensive enough that it's less bother to simply replace it than to try to straighten it out. As for the inner/front, you'll have to take the paint off so that you can use a heat crayon or bar of soap to judge the temperature of the metal. This will make the possibility of melting a hole less likely. You can use propane, but a MAPP torch is far quicker.
Also be aware that pounding aluminum will leave tool marks, so no matter how careful you are you'll have to use some amount of filler to get the thing ready for paint.
I think you can probably get it "Ron good" with a set of inexpensive Chinese body hammers from Harbor Freight. It will never be as new due to the fact that the metal has been stretched in the dent area.
Or just leave it. It's not doing any harm, hasn't knocked out any lights, and is part of the vehicle's history. Like West Virginia pin stripes, it adds to the "patina"
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Old September 13th, 2013, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Those wings are cheap on eBay and other places.i think AB or RN sell the ABS version. That spot is a pain in the ass to be able to do what you're trying to do as an inexperienced body panel worker.
ABS versions cost more than aluminum. But they wont be ruined @ the faintest touch from a branch either. I have a set, just haven't put them on anything yet.
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Old September 13th, 2013, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I wouldn't spend any time on the outer except for using it to get a feel for how to work the front/inner. Outers are inexpensive enough that it's less bother to simply replace it than to try to straighten it out.
This. Just buy new ones...they are cheap.
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Old September 13th, 2013, 11:06 AM
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I say give it a shot but off the truck (and disassemble the wing as well). Otherwise there is a dude in africa that can make a few pots out of it when you replace it.
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  #11  
Old September 13th, 2013, 01:40 PM
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Not to derail the thread, but does anyone have a link to that video of the guy making pots? He did a great job
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