Body Work Question - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old October 5th, 2009, 01:41 PM
CDN90's Avatar
CDN90
Status: Offline
Tim
94 / D90 #79
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Vancouver,B.C.,Canada
Posts: 135
Question Body Work Question

Hello All,

I am new to the forums and have recently bought a 94 AA Yellow D90 (lovin it!)

I have a couple questions when it comes to bodywork...i have been talking to body shops and enthusiasts and they all seem to say things slightly different. I have a dent in the rear driver quarter and the usual small bubbling on the paint in the bottom of the doors and under the door s. The rest is pretty clean!

Some of things i have heard are as follows:

Ah, painting aluminum is like metal except different fillers and better prep (should be able to shape and pound it out).

Go to Body Shop that specializes in Aluminum...there is a body shop that does all the NSXs in town. They will be able to do it. NSXs???

Go to this other body shop they have spent a ton on having a special area for just aluminum work. (the most important thing is you dont want iron particles when spraying.)

Dont fix it, replace the panel (might not get the spot welds right though!)

Personally, i would just replace the tub. Replace the tub, really???

Etc...

If I am expecting to pay more, does anybody know how much more than regular body work (%) ?

Also, seems like they all say they cant guarantee any future bubbling in that area, even within 5 years.

Any existing threads, links or advice would be appreciated....

Thanks in advance.
Attached Images
 
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old October 5th, 2009, 01:46 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Personally, I would leave it as is (maybe tap it back close to right and rattle can it with some tower paint AA yellow spray can) or replace the tub. I have seen lots of bad body work on defenders and little good body work on them.

As far as the bubbling on the doors. YOu are basically screwed as it will keep doing it because it is from the galvanic corrosion between the steel door frame and the aluminium skin. It comes from the inside of the door to the outside. Again, leave it be or take the skin off the door, galvanize the door frame and put a new or repaired skin back on.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old October 5th, 2009, 02:08 PM
Neil McCauley's Avatar
Neil McCauley
Status: Offline
Neil McCauley
94 ST, 97 ST, 93 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 2,366
I bet ECR could massage that out
__________________
A guy told me one time "don't let yourself get attached to anything you are not willing to walk out on in 30 seconds flat if you feel the heat from around the corner"

Robert Deniro
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old October 5th, 2009, 02:10 PM
enjoi1968's Avatar
enjoi1968
Status: Offline
Blake Pendleton
98 D1
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley
I bet ECR could massage that out
Vancouver is a LONG way from ECR.....
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old October 5th, 2009, 02:12 PM
Neil McCauley's Avatar
Neil McCauley
Status: Offline
Neil McCauley
94 ST, 97 ST, 93 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 2,366
Actually a few years ago, someone kicked in the rear lower portion of my tub in my Series IIA while it was parked in the street and it was folded in enough to leave a crease. I hammered it out with a rubber mallet then used a flat piece of wood behind the crease and hammered it as straight as I could get it, you can still sorta tell but barely since the paint isn't gloss but moreso a drab faded finish. Still way better than it was. You can even use a little filler once it for the most part straight, just try to recreate the spot welds with the eraser end of a pencil on the bondo hehe


Neil
__________________
A guy told me one time "don't let yourself get attached to anything you are not willing to walk out on in 30 seconds flat if you feel the heat from around the corner"

Robert Deniro
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old October 5th, 2009, 02:14 PM
landrovered's Avatar
landrovered
Status: Offline
S. Smith
72 Series III 109 Diesel
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Under my truck!
Posts: 753
My 110 was damaged similarly and I took it to the local body shop and they did a bang up job knocking it back out and then putting a thin coat of body filler on there to smooth it out. I don't think it is a sin to have this done is cheap and easy and then you won't look at your truck every day feeling guilty.
__________________
72 Series III 109 SW Diesel, 03 RR, 98 Porsche 986, 01 Porsche 986 3.6 L
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old October 5th, 2009, 02:14 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
The biggest problem with taking dents out of aluminium is that it work hardens and cracks very qucikly. You have to anneal it with a torch to get it to be maleable. I have tried it a few times and I can get it ok, but it is not like steel to work with.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old October 5th, 2009, 02:18 PM
CDN90's Avatar
CDN90
Status: Offline
Tim
94 / D90 #79
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Vancouver,B.C.,Canada
Posts: 135
Thanks for the rattle can suggestion, i will have to get me some of that. (I will painting everything in my house to match the truck )

I guess i can add this option also...but, i think the rattle can repair on the rear quarter would drive me bonkers.

The corrosion bubbles on the door is super minor, i guess i can live with it...is their a way to slow it down or stop it?

The rear dent, is more of my concern...i have a rear quarter skin that came with the truck. looks like a bigger job doing this though than someone shaping it as close as possible then using some proper filer and paint. (maybe i am in aluminum denial)

I have a budget of about $3000...what would be the proper way to do it (skin, tub, shape it, fill it, rattle can it). also, anything i should tell the bodyshop or look for through the process.

Cheers,
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old October 5th, 2009, 02:23 PM
landrovered's Avatar
landrovered
Status: Offline
S. Smith
72 Series III 109 Diesel
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Under my truck!
Posts: 753
$3K?????? My body shop charged me $700 for my repairs.
__________________
72 Series III 109 SW Diesel, 03 RR, 98 Porsche 986, 01 Porsche 986 3.6 L
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old October 5th, 2009, 02:24 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
3000 would buy you a perfect NAS D90 tub shipped to your door and if you waited around you could get it in yellow.

Spray waxyoyl between the frame and the skin to slow it down.

Seriously, a tab and rattle can could make that look pretty unnoticable. Much better than the inevitable cracked body filler look.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old October 5th, 2009, 02:34 PM
CDN90's Avatar
CDN90
Status: Offline
Tim
94 / D90 #79
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Vancouver,B.C.,Canada
Posts: 135
Wow, i must be a slow typer...the time i was finished replying to t he first reply there was more. Great help guys!

Yeah, Looks like ECR does some nice stuff...i am a ways away.

Another roll of the dice option: There is a bodyshop here with a guy from Malaysia...who is chomping to work on it. He said this is all he worked on when he was back home. he seems to think he can pound it and use little too no filler.

I have had specialty cars my whole life but this is the first D90...can't believe how difficult this decision is...

I swore another vehicle would not consume me...

Follow-up Post:

$3000, is Canadian funny money to you guys...everything here is more expensive and the dollar is worth less.

It's just a budget, want to do things right...but good to know it was $700.

Ok, new budget $2000...going to go D90 accessory shopping.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old October 5th, 2009, 03:25 PM
WhiteD90's Avatar
WhiteD90
Status: Offline
Johnathan Tisdale
93 110, 90 RockRR buggy
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 816
maybe JimC will post up his before and after pics; he dented his yellow 90 in a similar way and pounded it out. It is not perfect but much better than a caved in rear quarter and it didnt take much effort and I believe no money was involved.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old October 5th, 2009, 03:42 PM
FlaD90's Avatar
FlaD90
Status: Offline
Tom
1994 ST D90
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: West Palm Beach, Fl, USA
Posts: 525
I had pretty much the same dent on mine, ponded it out and applied a thin coat of filler...looks great.
I really dont know long term on the fix as I just fixed it...I used "EverCoat" body filler, to me its the best on the market.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old October 5th, 2009, 03:51 PM
JimC's Avatar
JimC
Status: Offline
Jim Cheney
NAS 110 #145
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Posts: 7,154
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteD90
maybe JimC will post up his before and after pics; he dented his yellow 90 in a similar way and pounded it out. It is not perfect but much better than a caved in rear quarter and it didnt take much effort and I believe no money was involved.
Thanks for bringing that back up Tis! Anyway, I did in fact have the same damage, and I just sorta pushed & pounded it back into shape. Its still that way 2+ years on. Doesn't look great, but its a lot better than before and I can live with it until I have time to find a tub or find some other solution.
__________________
Jim Cheney

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old October 5th, 2009, 04:08 PM
WhiteD90's Avatar
WhiteD90
Status: Offline
Johnathan Tisdale
93 110, 90 RockRR buggy
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 816
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Thanks for bringing that back up Tis! Anyway, I did in fact have the same damage, and I just sorta pushed & pounded it back into shape. Its still that way 2+ years on. Doesn't look great, but its a lot better than before and I can live with it until I have time to find a tub or find some other solution.
The story behind that story is what makes me laugh...sorry back on topic.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old October 5th, 2009, 04:31 PM
mattarm's Avatar
mattarm
Status: Offline
Matt
1993 D110
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 585
Tim,
Connect with Jon Winningham on this board. He had a rear quarter replaced on his 110 and it looks great.
Matt
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old October 5th, 2009, 04:41 PM
Gibson04
Status: Offline
Justin Church
1994 D90 / '04 Disco
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Gibsonville NC
Posts: 62
Sorry to Hijack........Would you use acrylic or enamel for spotting in with a rattle can?

Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old October 5th, 2009, 06:17 PM
rijosho's Avatar
rijosho
Status: Offline
Joshua
1995 Black ST - Rhinolined edition
Research Assistant/Eagle Eyes
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 16,557
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN90
Hello All,

I am new to the forums and have recently bought a 94 AA Yellow D90 (lovin it!)

...

Go to Body Shop that specializes in Aluminum...there is a body shop that does all the NSXs in town. They will be able to do it. NSXs???

...
I'm answering the only question I can.

Acura NSX's were aluminum chassis and body.
Attached Images
 
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old October 5th, 2009, 06:58 PM
CDN90's Avatar
CDN90
Status: Offline
Tim
94 / D90 #79
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Vancouver,B.C.,Canada
Posts: 135
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattarm
Tim,
Connect with Jon Winningham on this board. He had a rear quarter replaced on his 110 and it looks great.
Matt
>>Thanks, i will for sure...

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteD90
The story behind that story is what makes me laugh...sorry back on topic.
>>Story behind the Story...funny? Please Share!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlaD90
I had pretty much the same dent on mine, ponded it out and applied a thin coat of filler...looks great.
I really dont know long term on the fix as I just fixed it...I used "EverCoat" body filler, to me its the best on the market.
>>Any before and after picks I know it's a bit to ask. Any Cracking? How long since it was repaired?

Thanks again Guys!
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old October 6th, 2009, 08:13 PM
hutch's Avatar
hutch
Status: Offline
Hutch
97 AA Yellow D90 ST
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Tampa Bay, Florida
Posts: 173
Registry
I had similar damage the same spot on my AA Yellow 97 when I bought it. I had that taken care of along with re-doing the tops of the lower part of both doors where the door tops stripped off the paint down the metal and a nice ding where the wrap-around brush bar bent into the front quarter panel. They had to replace the flat rear panel but were able to save the side panel (you may not be as lucky - not sure).

The total was around 1700 and they did a killer job. Believe it or not I did it at the dealer (eeek!). Normally I never go there but I have to say I'm happy I did in my case for the body work. I may have been able to save a few hundred bucks but the thing looks mint all around and was professionally done. If I ever sell I have "official" paperwork on it. I priced it out at another shop and it was within a couple hundred bucks.

All that being said I don't take the truck there for maintenance or engine repairs!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
body

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Best way across the US Mike Hippert Defender Technical Discussions 173 April 29th, 2010 04:56 PM
Body Work in DC area????? Frankie Carbone Defender Technical Discussions 3 October 22nd, 2007 04:09 PM
Body work in Modesto area gofins Defender Technical Discussions 0 October 19th, 2007 06:24 PM
Employment opportunity Rod Hayward Misc. Chit-Chat 18 December 20th, 2005 10:20 PM
body work on aluminum mattdh Defender Technical Discussions 11 July 4th, 2004 02:47 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:59 PM.


Copyright