Body Separation - Tips on replacements & suspension - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old November 24th, 2017, 07:20 PM
MiamiDefender
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Christian
1991 Defender 110
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Body Separation - Tips on replacements & suspension

Hi All.

This has been a great resource thus far and I'm hoping to find some guidance on a few things. I'm separating the body from the frame in a few weeks and I'm pretty nervous about it.

While they're separated, I want to work on the transfer case (getting a good bump due to slak on the front drive line) and I want to potentially replace suspension. It seems a little high at the moment and I want to go back down to factory or up to 2" lower.

The use of this 110 will be about 75% on-road duty and 25% mild overlanding. What would you suggest in regards to suspension? I want to lower to improve handling a bit as well as aesthetic truthfully.

What else should I be looking to replace while I'm down working on the frame aside from the outriggers? - typical rotted-out areas/parts, etc.

Thank you!
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  #2  
Old November 24th, 2017, 10:11 PM
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Davis
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Chris Davis
94 NAS D90 6.2LS
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If you are separating the body, I would strongly suggest throwing a galv. chassis on. You are 90% of the way at that point, it is silly not to. If you are keeping it, do it. 95% of the defender owners that have owned for more than 5 years will agree 92% of the time on this. Seriously.

Second, do not worry about the drive line slack. It will still be there. We all suffer from it. Does it seem excessive? Most likely every one of us thought the same thing and try as we might, we can't get rid of it. I have used 3 transfer cases and just swapped to an LS and I still suffer from it. Try if you like, but I wouldn't expect it to get tight if you are using an LT230.

Have fun, and don't be nervous. It is just nuts, bolts and screws. Be careful of the wiring harness, but that is about it...

(seriously, galvanize your chassis if it is in good condition or get a new one... You won't regret it down the line. If your bulkhead is crappy, replace it too... I've been patching mine here and there for years...Just replaced the A-pillars and did a pretty darn good job I think :-)).
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Old November 25th, 2017, 01:20 PM
MiamiDefender
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Christian
1991 Defender 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis View Post
If you are separating the body, I would strongly suggest throwing a galv. chassis on. You are 90% of the way at that point, it is silly not to. If you are keeping it, do it. 95% of the defender owners that have owned for more than 5 years will agree 92% of the time on this. Seriously.

Second, do not worry about the drive line slack. It will still be there. We all suffer from it. Does it seem excessive? Most likely every one of us thought the same thing and try as we might, we can't get rid of it. I have used 3 transfer cases and just swapped to an LS and I still suffer from it. Try if you like, but I wouldn't expect it to get tight if you are using an LT230.

Have fun, and don't be nervous. It is just nuts, bolts and screws. Be careful of the wiring harness, but that is about it...

(seriously, galvanize your chassis if it is in good condition or get a new one... You won't regret it down the line. If your bulkhead is crappy, replace it too... I've been patching mine here and there for years...Just replaced the A-pillars and did a pretty darn good job I think :-)).
Thank you for this! The frame is in good condition. Couldn't an argument be made for patching and treating the existing frame versus galving it or buying a new frame? Why not ride the existing one out for 5 more years or more?

In regards to the drive line slack, it does seem excessive and it's a significant, uncomfortable bump every time you hit the accelerator. I was thinking a rebuild kit. Thoughts?
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  #4  
Old November 25th, 2017, 01:33 PM
Naplm00
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Matthew
1983 110 200tdi 3 door soft top
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Rebuild kit is only going to have The Shims and bearings and seals it's not going to address the worn-out components in your transfer case that are causing the driveline slack.

Before you start rebuilding your transfer case I checked the splines in the drive shaft U joints in the front and rear differentials for wear. Also check the drive flanges at the end of the axles.

Like many of said even with a brand new transfer case remanufactured by professional there's some slop in the Driveline. Please don't fix things by throwing money at them try diagnosing first and then figuring out what your issue is.

I patched my frame for about 7 years many times to keep it on the road. It finally came to the point where it was not patchable anymore and needed to be replaced. This is when I went with a galvanized chassis, if you do have the chassis off the body you are most of the way to a chassis swap but, patching and revamping your existing chassis is perfectly okay. Slowly go over the entire chassis with a hammer and a screwdriver finding all the Rusted gnarly parts, cut them out,weld on patch plate, put some chassis paint or coating over top.


Most people here would agree that removing the body from one of these trucks is not a small job that's why they feel that replacing with a brand new chassis way have it out is worth the time.

At a bare minimum you should replacing all the fuel lines all the brake lines and checking the entire chassis harness for electrical continuity if you aren't going to remove it. It would also be worthwhile to replace all the bushings in the suspension what you have everything apart
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Old November 27th, 2017, 05:33 PM
MiamiDefender
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Christian
1991 Defender 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Rebuild kit is only going to have The Shims and bearings and seals it's not going to address the worn-out components in your transfer case that are causing the driveline slack.

Before you start rebuilding your transfer case I checked the splines in the drive shaft U joints in the front and rear differentials for wear. Also check the drive flanges at the end of the axles.

Like many of said even with a brand new transfer case remanufactured by professional there's some slop in the Driveline. Please don't fix things by throwing money at them try diagnosing first and then figuring out what your issue is.

I patched my frame for about 7 years many times to keep it on the road. It finally came to the point where it was not patchable anymore and needed to be replaced. This is when I went with a galvanized chassis, if you do have the chassis off the body you are most of the way to a chassis swap but, patching and revamping your existing chassis is perfectly okay. Slowly go over the entire chassis with a hammer and a screwdriver finding all the Rusted gnarly parts, cut them out,weld on patch plate, put some chassis paint or coating over top.


Most people here would agree that removing the body from one of these trucks is not a small job that's why they feel that replacing with a brand new chassis way have it out is worth the time.

At a bare minimum you should replacing all the fuel lines all the brake lines and checking the entire chassis harness for electrical continuity if you aren't going to remove it. It would also be worthwhile to replace all the bushings in the suspension what you have everything apart
Thanks for this! What you say makes sense in regards to opening up the t-box and looking at what could have missing/broken splines, etc.

I like the idea of getting the existing frame galvanized. Any idea on cost?
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Old November 27th, 2017, 06:55 PM
Roverlab
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Trevor Griffiths
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On/off throttle clunking:. I'd also take a look at the A frame ball joint, trailing arm and radius arm bushings.
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Old November 27th, 2017, 09:29 PM
Naplm00
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Matthew
1983 110 200tdi 3 door soft top
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You can check the splines be removing the pto cover.
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  #8  
Old November 28th, 2017, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiamiDefender View Post
I like the idea of getting the existing frame galvanized. Any idea on cost?
If you drop it off at the galvanizers and pick it up yourself, industry standard seems to be $0.25/lb clean steel, $0.50/lb dirty steel, $500 minimum charge.

If you need someone to middleman the process for you, count on them adding $1000+ plus the cost of their champaigne and sous vide steak dinner.
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