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  #1  
Old February 5th, 2014, 05:04 PM
CaptMidnite
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Daniel Choi
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body repair

Going to repair my RHD side wings. Replacing (A) seems relatively straightforward, as it is bolt-on. (B) appears to be attached with a combination of rivets and spot welds.


(B) is available from suppliers by itself, or as part of an assembly that includes the top wing (C) (about $650).

I need to replace (B) because it is damaged but I can re-use (C). However, I understand spot-welding aluminum can be tricky.

Has anyone removed and replaced (B) only, and how hard is the repair?
If I don't want to mess with spot welding or riveting, should I just anneal and bang (B) back into shape?

I suppose I can buy an entire wing assembly but that seems expensive.
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  #2  
Old February 5th, 2014, 05:07 PM
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Eh...no more expensive than tearing it all down I would guess. How did you do that?
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  #3  
Old February 5th, 2014, 05:14 PM
CaptMidnite
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Daniel Choi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Larson View Post
Eh...no more expensive than tearing it all down I would guess. How did you do that?

Bought it like that last summer. Right now, I've got time and garage space so don't mind spending wrench time. I think (B) by itself can be found lightly used for $75.00

But (B) is throwing me for a loop because it is spot welded and riveted. I read up a fender wing repair article in LRO magazine where (B) was removed by drilling out the welds and rivets. The new piece was put back with adhesive and rivets but no welding.
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  #4  
Old February 5th, 2014, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Has anyone removed and replaced (B) only, and how hard is the repair?
I have, it's not hard.

Quote:
If I don't want to mess with spot welding or riveting, should I just anneal and bang (B) back into shape?
Unless you have a heat-treatment oven, you can't anneal aluminum. You can soften it for what is essentially hot forming, but it's not annealing. Also, unless you are an extremely good body worker, you will not succeed. I tried, I failed, I bought new panels, replaced everything, repainted everything.

Quote:
I suppose I can buy an entire wing assembly but that seems expensive.
How much is your time worth, and how good do you want the repair to look? Remember that you can find the individual pieces for a lot cheaper than it costs to buy the entire assembly.
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  #5  
Old February 5th, 2014, 05:28 PM
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Where can we buy the whole assembled fenders? I've been buying bits and pieces from the usual sources for my D90 rebuild.
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  #6  
Old February 5th, 2014, 05:36 PM
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Simmonites has the best prices I've seen thus far for the front/upper wing assembly. SP Land Rover is cheaper for other parts.
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  #7  
Old February 5th, 2014, 05:42 PM
CaptMidnite
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Sonoronos, did you spot weld the aluminum?
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  #8  
Old February 5th, 2014, 05:47 PM
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Those three assemblies are bolted together. You can get "B" as one piece. Banging "B" back to shape is hard as is it fairly complex with a bunch of parts. If you can get to a side, the alloy bangs back quite well. You will need some filler if you want it smooth.
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  #9  
Old February 5th, 2014, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptMidnite View Post
Sonoronos, did you spot weld the aluminum?
No, I did not spot weld. I riveted only. You can do the entire repair without spot welding except for one place.

Only one panel requires spot welding, and that is the "Inner wing valence". It's a small piece of aluminum and I used Panelbond on it instead.

I guess I could have riveted it on, but I didn't want the rivet to show in the final product.
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  #10  
Old February 5th, 2014, 05:53 PM
CaptMidnite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Those three assemblies are bolted together. You can get "B" as one piece. Banging "B" back to shape is hard as is it fairly complex with a bunch of parts. If you can get to a side, the alloy bangs back quite well. You will need some filler if you want it smooth.
How easy is it to re-attach B to the fender assembly? I understand spot-welding aluminum isn't as easy as steel. Just use rivets and adhesive? Doing some research it seemes easier to order the whole fender assembly (I already have (A) panels)
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  #11  
Old February 5th, 2014, 06:27 PM
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Couldn't you just pound out the dents?
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  #12  
Old February 5th, 2014, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woldd90 View Post
Couldn't you just pound out the dents?
Yes you can, with a bag of sand and a large plastic mallet you can get most of that out. use caution as once you over work the alloy its very hard to shrink .

Lay the dented area on the sand bag and slowly go to work , what do you have to loose but a few hours of time if it doesn't work . Plus you might enjoy it . So if it doesn't work your buying a fender , if you don't try your buying a fender.


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  #13  
Old February 5th, 2014, 07:23 PM
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buy new and sell the old unit here

I have replace B with rivets.
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  #14  
Old February 5th, 2014, 07:50 PM
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I saw this article on LRO where you sand all the paint off first. Than take a sharpie marker and draw lines over the dents. Than you use a torch to heat it up til the marks you drew start to fade or dragging a scrap piece of wood over the heated surface leaves a dark mark. Supposedly it is now annealed and ready for the plastic mallet treatment. Your suppost to use a dolly on the opposite side of the hammering like the sand bag or a appropriately shaped mallet.
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  #15  
Old February 5th, 2014, 08:13 PM
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Someone posted a link to a video here once of a guy doing an amazing piece of work on a porch or something. Took a dent and crease out that you wouldn't believe without any filler.
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  #16  
Old February 5th, 2014, 09:18 PM
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Yea I think it was a guy fixing a cobra rear quarter panel
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94 D90 ST R380 constine green stock
85 D110 3.5 3 DR
67 NADA diesel tremec 4spd salisbury rear springs on front and a LOT MORE TO GO.

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  #17  
Old February 5th, 2014, 09:18 PM
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Amazing body repair.

You can anneal with the torch. I tried some rudimentary repair on flat panels with decent success based on his methods
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  #18  
Old February 5th, 2014, 09:23 PM
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Jpayne looks like we where thinking the same thing at 5:18 :-)


Nice work on that quarter .
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94 D90 ST R380 constine green stock
85 D110 3.5 3 DR
67 NADA diesel tremec 4spd salisbury rear springs on front and a LOT MORE TO GO.

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  #19  
Old February 5th, 2014, 10:05 PM
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Nice work Jeff! I plan to give that a go once I get to the bodywork stage of my project.
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  #20  
Old February 5th, 2014, 10:13 PM
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Jeff, that's like magic! Very cool video.
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