Body cappings & galvanization - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 9th, 2006, 09:42 AM
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Marc
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Body cappings & galvanization

Has anybody replaced the body cappings on their D90 Station Wagon? I have been maintaining and repainting the rear right corner capping for several years now, due to re-occuring rust on that particular spot. Miss the o'l series galvanized cappins. Is there an easy way to lift the hard top, and what method is correct to replace the cappings?

Thanks for any help.
Marc
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  #2  
Old July 10th, 2006, 03:38 PM
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There is no real easy way, but the cappings come off with a drill and go back on with rivets. It isn't too bad.

There are some pix of Jesse Wares 110 we did twith galv. cappings here to see if you like the look:

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/service.html
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  #3  
Old July 10th, 2006, 03:52 PM
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I galv my capping then painted it along with my bulkhead and all other steal stuff.. ITs the only way to go...
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  #4  
Old July 11th, 2006, 01:13 AM
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My 90 is a SW. So I'm wondering what is the easiest way to lift the top, how far off of a lift is needed, and will have to disconnect wiring? Also when I drill the rivets and remove the capping, will I have to repaint or touch up?
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Old July 11th, 2006, 01:02 PM
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Take off the entire top all the way.

The only wiring would be to the dome light.

If you are careful and cut the paint with a razor before removing the trim you should not have to repaint.

I never did them all (I have on a series) but I did one of the rear ones on my truck.
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Old July 11th, 2006, 03:46 PM
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Sounds scary man...
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Old July 11th, 2006, 03:57 PM
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if you truck has not been repainted and you re-use your original pieces you will not have any paint work issues.
If it has been repainted and the rivets are buried in thick paint... expect paint work.

Plus windscreen washer lines go up there as well.

You could unbolt the back adn then remove the front lower windcsreen mounst then title the top slightly. the you would not have to cut the wiring or address the washer lines.

You would ahve to remove the top hinge on the rear door, jump seats, side trims, door seals and the do the hardware inside, remove the front roll cage hoop, etc etc. Its all nut and bolt stuff. Then you could slip the cappings out without fully taking the top off.
Don't know if that would save any work or not (might make more) but it might mean less coming apart.
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Old July 11th, 2006, 04:06 PM
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It is not that bad. It is worse on a series with all the hammer rivits.

The thing you will notice most is the plain rivits on the tub sides after you are done. This is the main reason -- well and mine are not rusted yet -- that I have not done it.
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Old July 11th, 2006, 04:18 PM
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You can see if you like the bare rivet look by checking out this 90

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/97gallery.html

Does have a certain "bullet hole" type look if you aren't into it.
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  #10  
Old July 11th, 2006, 04:48 PM
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Ok you guys give me hope. Sounds doable. BTW ECR checked out the pics on your site. I like the look of raw rivets, doesn't bother me. What bothers me is that you do some sick, sick work!
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Old July 11th, 2006, 05:06 PM
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Sorry.

We'll tone it down.
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  #12  
Old July 11th, 2006, 05:20 PM
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Keep in mind that if you galvanize you will not notice the plain rivits on the back (as they will be through galvy silver panels and are silver rivits), you will only notice the row on the side of the truck.
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Old July 11th, 2006, 05:57 PM
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I like the bare rivits too.... I just took the trim off of a series truck and its not that bad. THe D-90 is easier...
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  #14  
Old July 11th, 2006, 06:54 PM
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cool, I like the galvanized trim look. I suppose there will be weather stripping to replace. Is silicone used on the joint on the 1995 SW?
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  #15  
Old July 12th, 2006, 10:36 AM
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Is silicone used on the joint on the 1995 SW?

I don't think so. On the series and my POE the gasket is a compression gasket and is on the hardtop so you don't need to replace anything.
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Old July 12th, 2006, 11:02 AM
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NO silicone.
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