blown front end & sucky wheel locks - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 24th, 2004, 02:43 PM
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Exclamation blown front end & sucky wheel locks

So I left to drive to Virginia 10/22. I get about half way there (Washington Court House, Ohio) and the front end locks up and she pops out of second gear.... (Luckily I was exiting the highway to refuel) Something MAJORLY wrong with the front end. Had a heck of a time putting it onto a flat-bed that I rented from UHaul, as you could push it maybe a couple inched then it would bind.... This is with the front propshaft remove. Then pop she would let go. Obviously either a broken axle or chewed up ring and pinion.

First question, with the front propshaft removed, why can't i at least have rear-wheel drive? If I'm supposed to, then I'm really screwed... haha Not really to funny.

So I get it home, unload it and I'm ready to start pulling it apart. Put it up on jacks and start pulling the tires..... dang, stupid wheel locks with the four holes (unlike the newer ones). Start digging all over the d90 for the key and.... no go. I have no key to get the sucky lock off!!!

Second question, How can i get this dang thing off? Are all 90s keyed alike, or will i have to go to the dealer and order on for my particular vehicle? If they are keyed alike is there anyone in chicago that has one of these stinkin keys? My rangie doesn't even have locks like this.... Or does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get it off, without messing up my alloys?

All and all, it's turned out to be a ridiculously expensive trip and i didn't even get to where i was going...

On a brighter note, I'll probably be putting in 4:10 gears and ARB lockers....
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Old October 24th, 2004, 03:24 PM
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I've had luck in the past with hammering on a slightly undersized socket. The hard part is getting the lug nut OUT of the socket. If you go that route, wear safety goggles as I have also shattered a couple sockets too.

Snap-On and a few other companies also make dedicated tools for the purpose of removing wheel locks, look at around $100 for the set I think.

-Hans
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Old October 24th, 2004, 08:48 PM
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You have to lock the center diff to drive in 2wd.

The dealer (at least my dealer) has a universal set of locking keys, since it is the old style I would call and ask first. If not you can use a bolt out type thing but it has to be huge so you need snap on. Also you can weld a nut on the end.

As far as the front end, well could be anything, wheel bearing would be the easist. more likely a cv. RandPs generally don't break on road.
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Old October 24th, 2004, 08:56 PM
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After much thought regarding the wheel locks.... ended up beating on a smaller impact socket; it eventually came off. Then on to the front end...

Pulled the shafts; both look OK, as do the CV joints. Pulled the "pig", R&P look good. Turns out it's the outer R&P bearing. The bearing is shot and it's not allowing the pinion to spin properly.

So it's definitely not as bad as i thought! But it still turned out to be an expensive weekend and i didn't even get to where i was going.

RE: the 2wd... So does the vehicle have to be rolling to shift into locking high/low? I couldn't shift out-right into locking.... just in high and low.
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Old October 24th, 2004, 09:20 PM
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Diff lock is probably seized due to lack of use. Lube the linkage. You make have to take it apart to free it up.

That is an odd failure I have not seen, was there any oil in the diff?

Ron
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Old October 24th, 2004, 10:07 PM
jabber
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That turned out to be another problem! The Passenger side was leaking like crazy.... I'm assuming it has to be some seal between the axle and the hub.... Need to look into the manual a little more. definitely looks as if all the diff oil was leaking into the pass-side hub. after taking the rotor assembly off, it was all gunked up with thick gear oil.
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Old October 25th, 2004, 07:35 PM
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The lube that goes in the CV joint called "one shot" looks like gunked up gear oil. There should be a seal inside the axle tube that keeps the gear lube in the differential.

The seal is at the flanged joint in the axle tube just inside of the swivel ball housing and it seals against the machined surface on the axle.

If this is as unclear as it sounds to me I can look up the proper names in the shop manual. Personally I wouldn't do this kind of work without one. (shop manual)
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