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  #1  
Old February 19th, 2013, 05:07 PM
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Blew a coolant hose

So- driving up the canyon. Going about 45 mph (uphill, I was amazed too) with the heat on. EGT was at 800. All the sudden I'm spewing coolant. Blew the T on the multiple piece hose that runs near the intercooler. Fixed it, added coolant and turned around. Once I got back to town and put a decent load on the motor it started to heat up again, 220 F on the coolant temp. No heat- just cold air.

This week-end there was a decent puddle of coolant under the truck. It's always leaked and I've just topped it off every now and then. Seems to be worse lately. I keep tightening the hose that I think is leaking and it keeps leaking. Also have a freeze plug coolant leak and potentially a P-gasket leak. Those have been minimal. The truck had a slight drip and it was wet under it this week-end.

Thinking the hot motor and cold heat is my thermostat, I never changed that after I got the radiator muff and had heat again.

Can the thermostat cause the system to build up too much pressure and blow a hose? Could I have overfilled it this last time and too much coolant caused it to blow the hose.
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  #2  
Old February 19th, 2013, 05:15 PM
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i'd suggest a new water pump and new stat to start and the visc fan if it has one. it does wonders when these are all singing from the same page. engine heat is not your friend so these are must haves in my opinion and cheap assurance.

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Old February 19th, 2013, 05:15 PM
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  #4  
Old February 19th, 2013, 05:22 PM
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This motor was completely rebuilt a year ago- has maybe 2k miles on it. Maybe. Can it really need a new water pump and fan already?

I'd like to think I added too much coolant when I topped it off and that's what over-pressurized it.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aosias View Post
So- driving up the canyon. Going about 45 mph (uphill, I was amazed too) with the heat on. EGT was at 800. All the sudden I'm spewing coolant. Blew the T on the multiple piece hose that runs near the intercooler. Fixed it, added coolant and turned around. Once I got back to town and put a decent load on the motor it started to heat up again, 220 F on the coolant temp. No heat- just cold air.

This week-end there was a decent puddle of coolant under the truck. It's always leaked and I've just topped it off every now and then. Seems to be worse lately. I keep tightening the hose that I think is leaking and it keeps leaking. Also have a freeze plug coolant leak and potentially a P-gasket leak. Those have been minimal. The truck had a slight drip and it was wet under it this week-end.

Thinking the hot motor and cold heat is my thermostat, I never changed that after I got the radiator muff and had heat again.

Can the thermostat cause the system to build up too much pressure and blow a hose? Could I have overfilled it this last time and too much coolant caused it to blow the hose.
That sucks!.....and you were just talking about upgrading all the hoses to silicone too!
sounds like ther's a blockage somewhere. I'm told that there is a baffle or diaphram at the "Y" connection on the lower radiator hose, so maybe when it blew, some peices of the diaphram were lodged somewhere? That or obviously check the T-stat.

That's about all I can add sorry I can't think of anything else. Good luck
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Old February 19th, 2013, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aosias View Post
I'd like to think I added too much coolant when I topped it off and that's what over-pressurized it.
AFAIK, the volume of coolant does not affect the pressure in the cooling system. The pressure of the cooling system is maintained by the coolant reservoir cap.

Because of the "no heat" symptom, I'm guessing a failure of the thermostat. Still doesn't explain why the venting cap did not do its job, however...

Would be great if it wasn't a cracked block or headgasket problem. I would check quality of oil just in case (any milkiness or frothing could indicate either of these issues.)
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Old February 19th, 2013, 05:31 PM
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I still want that 1 piece hose. I am going to have to go to the UK to get it at this point.

I'm so OVER the coolant leaks. This truck has leaked coolant and spewed coolant since I got it, and it's had two motors now. If I park it in the driveway on an incline it leaks even more.
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Old February 19th, 2013, 05:48 PM
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You change the coolant hoses when you redid the motor? Did you change the radiator cap, if this doesnt seal you can have issues. Did you ever change the radiator?
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Old February 19th, 2013, 06:00 PM
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The hoses either came with the current motor or were new. I am going to assume they are new since they don't look too worn out or nasty. I went from a 2.25 petrol to a 300 Tdi.

The expansion tank and cap are the same. Interestingly enough.

Oil on dipstick looks fine- not milky or frothy.

This is the hose/fitting that blew. You can see it's wiggling itself loose again at the same spot. It runs to the bottom of the radiator and then to the expansion tank.
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  #10  
Old February 19th, 2013, 07:28 PM
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I seem to remember my mechanic saying either the radiator or intercooler needed some pin holes repaired. I can't remember which. Would a poor repair cause it to leak and potentially cause the hose to blow?
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  #11  
Old February 19th, 2013, 07:37 PM
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This sounds just like my complete engine disaster on our Alaska trip. Turned out to be a blown head gasket allowing exhaust gases to over pressurize the coolant system.

Even if your t-stat is bad, your heater should still be hot. It's not dependent on the t-stat on the 300tdi. What's really happening is you are filling it with air so there is no hot water in there.
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  #12  
Old February 19th, 2013, 09:23 PM
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if its leaking, you have air in the system, and the circulation wont be what it should. If you really have no heat then there is no hot coolant running through your heater core. (obviously) So either a very clogged heater core, or lots of air in the lines messing up your circulation.

First thing you gotta do is kill those leaks!!
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Old February 19th, 2013, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revtor View Post
if its leaking, you have air in the system, and the circulation wont be what it should. If you really have no heat then there is no hot coolant running through your heater core. (obviously) So either a very clogged heater core, or lots of air in the lines messing up your circulation.

First thing you gotta do is kill those leaks!!
I'm not sure if the old 2.5 NA coolant line is the same as the 300 Tdi. Either way, a complete new hose setup isn't much. Once the system is sealed, bleed all the air:

1) Remove the plug on the top of the thermostat housing, the plug on the radiator, and the fill cap on the overflow.
2) Fill with coolant until coolant is coming out of the thermostat housing then install the plug on the thermostat housing.
3) Fill with coolant until coolant is coming out of the radiator then install the radiator plug.
4) Fill the overflow with coolant to about the seam.

Also check the lines to the heater core.
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  #14  
Old February 20th, 2013, 02:56 AM
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I can't tell what I'm looking @ with that picture. Where is that T ? Sounds like you are air locked. If a mechanic told you you that you have a pinhole leak in the radiator then get a new one. Radiators are cheap vs burning up an engine. You don't have to go to the UK to get a hose, the brits can send it to you.
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Old February 20th, 2013, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
I can't tell what I'm looking @ with that picture. Where is that T ? Sounds like you are air locked. If a mechanic told you you that you have a pinhole leak in the radiator then get a new one. Radiators are cheap vs burning up an engine. You don't have to go to the UK to get a hose, the brits can send it to you.
That is the connector in what I believe is the lower radiator hose- runs to the lower radiator connection and the expansion tank. It blew off at the connector and then it was loosening itself again.

To repair that wasn't my decision. I don't remember if it was the radiator or the intercooler, I think it may have actually been the intercooler that had pin holes and was repaired. I was being a smart ass about going to the UK- I really want that silicone hose kit that has the one piece lower radiator hose and none of the suppliers I've found seem to be able to get me a decent price quote or acknowledge if they have it in stock.

I'm trying very hard to be diplomatic about all of this. These issues (and others) have been since the engine swap. The truck still has other issues that need to be addressed from this conversion. I am hesitant to try and get those resolved since it took over a year to do the Tdi conversion.

I'm having it looked at by another mechanic to see if they can diagnose at least. He does LR's, just not necessarily diesels.

Feel free to PM/email me if you have any other ideas.
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Old February 20th, 2013, 09:23 AM
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I cant' teel from that picture, but it looks like that plastic "T" piece that is shown is in place of what used to be the rubber-fused OEM hose "T" connection, correct?
If so, I'm not sure if that is anything more than a temporary fix. (isn't there a diaphram at that connection? - Doug, et-al could you confirm this?)
Also, where did you source that "T" connection and hose clamps? That may be a source of trouble depending on the quality of that fitting.
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Old February 20th, 2013, 09:31 AM
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Please take a look at this pic and the PDF. Not sure if the Webasto is the "blockage" or problem.

I had an issue with a leaky hose clamp with my Webasto and it was causing similar issues as soon as I tightened it up and bled the system all issues were gone.

The jpeg translated is:

1. tank
2. thermostat
3. engine
4. water pump
5. heater "webasto"
6. heater core
7. radiator

Make sure you are piped in this configuration
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Old February 20th, 2013, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackie Treehorn View Post
I cant' teel from that picture, but it looks like that plastic "T" piece that is shown is in place of what used to be the rubber-fused OEM hose "T" connection, correct?
If so, I'm not sure if that is anything more than a temporary fix. (isn't there a diaphram at that connection? - Doug, et-al could you confirm this?)
Also, where did you source that "T" connection and hose clamps? That may be a source of trouble depending on the quality of that fitting.
I can't take credit for that fancy connection and hose clamp set up. But it's been leaking since day 1. I keep tightening and it keeps leaking.

I have a new lower hose on order. It's multiple pieces but banded I believe instead of clamps. I'm going to replace all the coolant hoses with new and see if that doesn't stop those leaks.

P gasket is coming too since I have some coolant around the water pump- can't tell if that is the hose above leaking or the water pump. AND a new core plug to take care of the leaking one on the block. Again- it's been leaking since it was installed during the rebuild.

Also going to have it tested for exhaust in the coolant, just in case there is more to this story.

I should buy a keg and host a happy hour. My HOA would love it.
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Old February 20th, 2013, 09:44 AM
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Okay, I wasn't trying to be a know-it-all or blast somebody's Macgyver repair, but that "T" connection probably needs to go in favor of the proper hose. Not saying that somebody used a plumbing fitting on that connection, but it looks suspect to me.

You should start with all new hoses anyway (since you wanted to do that anyway). I tossed around the idea of silicone, but opted to just buy the OEM hoses from Stephen at SHP. They shoudl be just fine. He may have most of them in stock. Also, like others said, use the proper fill/bleed procedure to eliminate air locking.

I hope you don't have a failing head gasket, but let's start with replacing the failing hoses before you explore a big issue like that (especially because you didn't mention any frothy coolant that had oil in it). Any why not throw in a brand new T-stat while you're at it just for good measure (they're cheap).
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Old February 20th, 2013, 10:29 AM
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Can't really say that I think a cobbled together fix is appropriate for this situation but it seems to be the story on this truck.

Obviously I need to find a new mechanic, apparently two years isn't enough time to get the work completed and functioning properly.
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