Bleeping Steering Wheel.... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 27th, 2004, 06:50 PM
mlw911
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Michael Walter
1995 D90 ST
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Bleeping Steering Wheel....

I have tried to no avail to get this thing off. It won't budge. I've banged, pulled and tried working some screws through the holes with a little metal strap deal to no avail. I noticed the autoparts store sells a steering wheel pull kit but the bolts don't look like they will come close to fitting.

Is it possible this thing is rusted on or something? Anyone else have this much trouble, I am about to give up?

Thanks-Michael
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  #2  
Old July 27th, 2004, 06:52 PM
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David Marchand
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Don't buy the kit from the car parts store. Many of us have done this in the past mistakenly...

My tried and true method is to use a BFH, preferably of 4 pounds or higher and give a few good whacks on the backside of the wheel. Careful, as the wheel is liable to pop off with no warning and will go flying.

Make sure you mark the center before doing this.
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  #3  
Old July 27th, 2004, 07:27 PM
BarryO
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Barry O'Mahony
97 D-90 SW LE
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I used a steering wheel puller, with extra bolts I bought. The bolts that came with the puller were all too big in diameter. The wheel popped right off. I think this is the easiest way.
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  #4  
Old July 27th, 2004, 07:35 PM
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Buck
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Try soaking it in penetrating grease overnight. Then loosen the main bolt to the last thread, leaving it on. Then sit in the seat and bang up on the wheel as hard as you can on both sides evenly. Or if you want to use a hammer, use two on both sides at the same time. If you use just one it is putting pressure on the wronge spot. If all that does not work, I have no idea.
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  #5  
Old July 27th, 2004, 10:26 PM
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Doug Walker
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There is another thread about making a home built puller. I made one. Piece of metal with two holes in it, laid across the column, two bolts that thread into the holes in the wheel. Screw 'em down and the bolts pull the wheel UP to the piece of metal... all of a sudden - POP! Wheel off.
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  #6  
Old July 28th, 2004, 06:57 PM
mlw911
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Michael Walter
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Doug, David:

Thanks for the tips. I tried both to no avail. I think I'll just leave the wheel where it is.

Michael
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  #7  
Old July 28th, 2004, 07:10 PM
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James Morgan
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unthread the nut to halfway up the shaft then just be paitent and pull and rock and push on it it will come free after a while
but leave the nut on the thread or you will break your own nose and a couple of teeth when it does come free it does it quickly when i first tried this is was a pain then it hit me in the face and that was very painfull just dont forget to leave the nut on with a few threads left


i know a few people that have strapped a tow rope onto the wheel and pulled it off like that but again not a good idea as the wheel can fly anywhere


good luck
James
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  #8  
Old July 28th, 2004, 08:20 PM
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Chris Davis
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I drilled and re-tapped the stock holes on my old steering wheel to get it off and used a harmonic balancer puller. Worked great.
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  #9  
Old July 28th, 2004, 08:43 PM
BarryO
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Barry O'Mahony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlw911
Doug, David:

Thanks for the tips. I tried both to no avail. I think I'll just leave the wheel where it is.

Michael
Autozone will lend you a puller for free. You just need to buy the right size metric bolts. 'should be less than a buck.
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  #10  
Old July 28th, 2004, 08:55 PM
mlw911
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Michael Walter
1995 D90 ST
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I tried a home style puller which someone mentioned by using a piece of metal with 2 holes drilled into and used the main column as the center point while cranking down on the 2 bolts on either side to try and pop it off. The bolts ended up bending along with the metal strip. The bolt holes accomodate too small a bolt to try and use a steering wheel puller. My wheel is really on.


By the way is it hard to retap a hole?
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  #11  
Old July 28th, 2004, 09:27 PM
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Chris Cox
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You would be surprised, but those little bolts are plenty strong. Just make sure that you use as short a bolt as possible, and that they are pulling straight, because having them pull at angles greatly decreases their strength.I had some stainless bolts laying around, and used them. You need to keep the metal strip as close to the wheel as possible. I took and drilled a large hole in the center of the 1/4" x 2" metal strip. I think it was about a 1/2" hole. I welded a nut on the backside that I could screw the larger bolt into. I then used a ratchet to crank the large bolt into the steering column, wheel came off no problem. I know some people that swear by penetrating oil and brute force, just watch out that you don't break your nose.

Chris
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  #12  
Old July 29th, 2004, 04:01 AM
BarryO
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Barry O'Mahony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Cox
just watch out that you don't break your nose.
That's one concern I had with the "yank/pound on it" method.

The problem, I think with the homemade pullers is that the metal cross piece is put under a large load, and must be a pretty hefty piece of metal to take the stress. The one that comes with pullers even looks likeit might be forged; it certainly is pretty substantial.

The bolts attaching to the wheel itself should not be the ones that are turned to do the pulling. They should be screwed in all the way into the holes before any load is applied to them, and the load to be straight so that the bolts are only placed in tension and therefore won't bend. On "real" pullers, the load is applied by turning the center bolt, which is big, heat-treated steel that can handle the stress being applied to its thread.

Put some Liquid wrench on the splines the day before you do the pull and it should come off.
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