Biggest Pusher Fan in front of radiator - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 28th, 2016, 03:19 PM
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Chris Davis
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Biggest Pusher Fan in front of radiator

Has anyone fit a large pusher fan in front of the radiator? I see the 14" Spal fans have an outside diameter of 15" but are only 1" thick at the edges and I think I can get one to fit there--has anyone tried?

And yes, I am aware that you want to use puller fans for better efficiency--which I already run. I also know that often times adding a pusher to a puller can even decrease efficiency. But I need a little more cooling for when I tow my off road trailer and I am going to try it as it is much cheaper than doing a multi pass radiator and the stock fan (which pulls way more CFM than electric) isn't a direction I want to go again.

I may bypass the oil cooler and/or add a secondary oil cooler but for now I'll try a pusher...

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old June 28th, 2016, 08:26 PM
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There's always the old turn on the heater trick.
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Old June 28th, 2016, 08:43 PM
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I know you say you don't want a puller, But.... The zirgo zfb16s fits exactly in the stock radiator bracket. So perfectly in fact I didn't even have retaining clips on it for a year.

Good news it can be run as a pusher or a puller. I run mine with a spal fan controler and a lower radiator hose adapter for the temp sensor.

It's a 16in fan and 3000cfm at full bore. The spal can run it at 1/4 1/2 3/4 and full voltage

Mine is a 200tdi and the fan only turns on when it's hot as fuck outside or towing.
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Old June 28th, 2016, 09:20 PM
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What about switching to a RRC fan?
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  #5  
Old June 28th, 2016, 09:43 PM
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Chris Snyder
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RRC fan sounds like one of the better suggestions. However... Where are the numbers on pusher fans reducing overall efficiency? In a lot of cooling setups push-pull configs net greater efficiency... What stops it from being efficient in this application?
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Old June 29th, 2016, 03:00 AM
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Matthew--I am already running a puller, Flex a Lite. I need more. Bill--the heater is on :-). I am pulling up some steep Colorado grades at lower altitudes with a 2000lb trailer on 33's. Without, I am fine. I'll look at the RRC--I have one out front :-). Chris--there is a strong contingent that says that the air blocked by a pusher when using a puller does more harm than help when traveling at speed (interpret speed here...). Their arguments are reasonably sound, but there is an equally vocal side to the opposite. Even Pirate is divided. I just had my radiator fixed for a leak (so they rebuilt it, Serck in Denver). I was talking with one of the guys out front that rebuilds them--his advice? Try it. He has seen both cases, help and hurt, and it was too hard to guess. The fact is, I can by a good size Spal for under $100. I already have a relay pack off a Volvo. Now I just need to know what the largest fan I can possibly fit without stupid mods. I am willing to trim here and there... :=)
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Old June 29th, 2016, 05:46 AM
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Do you have a shroud to ensure the fans are only pulling air through the radiator? Also If if you add something in front, consider the Ac grille bump out for more space.
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Old June 29th, 2016, 07:37 AM
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Well, here's the thing. Once you get up to a certain speed, and no I don't know what that is, the fan...any fan...becomes ineffective. That's why they have a temperature regulated viscous clutch on them. Once you pass the threshold of road speed vs the fans ability to pull (or push) air thru the fins of the radiator adding more fan won't do anything to help cool.
An electric fan is really only any good when there is insufficient airflow thru the radiator such as when moving slowly on a trail for instance, and you can rig a switch to it so that you can turn it off for water crossing.
If you are truly overheating like boiling over and spewing coolant, then yes you have a problem. if the gauge is simply edging toward the upper end, and you aren't blowing the top off the overflow bottle, then you do not have a problem. The coolant, being under pressure, can get over 212 degrees F and still not be technically overheating.
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Old June 29th, 2016, 07:38 AM
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Ah Gotcha, well the zirgo is pretty thin... Maybe it could fit up front?

The spal control also can control.more than one fan and more than one temp, has auto on for ac or force on for towing via switch
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Old June 29th, 2016, 07:41 AM
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I put an RRC fan in front of my radiator as a pusher and it fits well albeit slightly offset because of the grille supports
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Old June 29th, 2016, 07:51 AM
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I was referring to the RRC viscous fan, not the electric fan.
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Old June 29th, 2016, 10:37 AM
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Bill--you are absolutely right, which is why I said (interpret speed here) and my speed that I would really like more cooling is about 40mph to 50mph. I talked with the several radiator specific folks and they said it is all about the pressure differential on both sides of the radiator and flow out of the engine compartment is a big part of that. They said it might help, it might not. Literally. No definitive answer, so this is purely an experiment.

I have the thin shrouded Flex-a-lite 210--it pulls about 2500 cfm which is fine on the trail. I've looked at the Ford Taurus and Lincoln fans which pull in the 4000-5000 range, but I can't fit it (hits water pump, ive tried). There are some Kenlowe and other fans that pull and would probably fit, but they are in the $400-500 range and at that point I would just change the radiator to a multipass. I'm going to give the $90 pusher a try and if it doesn't work, I can absorb that easy enough... Might even try and get two strong pullers and make my own shroud if it doesn't work as they are reversible...

I know I am alright at 210 but I don't want to keep going higher. 220 just scares me with an aluminum block...
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Old June 29th, 2016, 11:31 AM
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Chris, I have found that in lower speeds was to make sure the puller fan shroud is sealed as best can be to the radiator. This stops the fan from pulling hot engine bay air back into it.

I have also sealed the incoming side so as much of the cooler air is forced into the rad, I have even heard of people putting a piece of sheet metal 90 degrees to the outer side middle of the rad to stop air Eddies?

But as you said folks you have talked are correct that at a higher speed the parachute effect happens
, unless you are willing to give up cabin space for ram tunnels.

Good luck in your quest.
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Old June 29th, 2016, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis View Post
I know I am alright at 210 but I don't want to keep going higher. 220 just scares me with an aluminum block...
You'll be fine at that temp as long as the system can hold the pressure. If it cannot, it will blow the coolant out and THEN you will overheat and cause damage. As long as the coolant is staying in, you are good.
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  #15  
Old June 30th, 2016, 01:24 AM
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Not blowing any coolant but the hills I am going over are shot. I suspect the Eisenhower tunnel hill on I70 from Denver to Moab may be an issue as I believe temp will keep going up.
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