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  #1  
Old October 22nd, 2014, 01:51 AM
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Amit Likhyani
95 D90 Soft Top Estoril Blue 6.2 LS
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big brake kits

I've got a hot rodded 4.6 motor putting out 300 horse and the truck cruises all day at 80 and can hit 90 if I want to watch the gas gauge move. I'm sure the brakes are what came on the truck in 1995. I have installed stainless lines but 20 year old calipers do concern me a little bit. I've been looking at kits from Tarox(tune my defender), AP Racing and Alcon. Will they make an appreciable difference in stopping power? And does anyone have experience with any of the kits I listed?

Thanks,
Mit
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  #2  
Old October 22nd, 2014, 02:05 AM
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evilfij
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I have not, but a good condition stock master cylinder, pads and working calipers will lock up the brakes pretty quickly on a defender 90 doing 90 mph. Before you throw a ton of money at it, make sure what you have is working. At 20 years old I consider the master cylinders to be expired and I have seen a lot of calipers that do not work well because a piston or two is seized. One other point, a lot of aftermarket pads suck in my experience. Genuine pads work really well and I have had good luck with ferodo. The trucks I have driven the really hard parts store special pads the brakes have sucked. Finally, oversized tires make stopping harder in my experience too.
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  #3  
Old October 22nd, 2014, 08:46 AM
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Mark Garrenton
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Horsepower and brakes have little in common. I've heard this discussion many times. 300hp is okay but it isn't whopping power. 80mph is 80mph no matter what engine got you to that speed. If you're only doing 25mph and your brakes fail the end result could still be a lot of damage and possible injuries. Big brakes come into play when you're doing a lot of heavy braking as in downhill grades or you've fitted larger diameter tires (effectively reducing the leverage of the stock setup), or track racing which really doesn't apply to LR's. Some would said trailering also comes into play but only if said trailer is not equipped with it's own brake system. Evil has the right idea. Go over the stock system to ensure it is fully operational. While age comes into play, especially the calipers and rotors due to heat cycling, it isn't always a justifiable reason to throw in new parts. A really good policy is a full fluid flush every couple of years using DOT 4 or DOT 5 fluid. DOT 3 & 4 are hydroscopic meaning they will absorb water. That moisture comes in through the bleed hole of the master cylinder. Lastly, if you go the DOT 5 route know it will make your brakes feel squishy as silicone compresses more than the other fluids.
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  #4  
Old October 22nd, 2014, 08:47 AM
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Brett Fritzler
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RedWinch just came out with a bracket kit to install front D1 4-pot calipers on the rear axle.
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  #5  
Old October 22nd, 2014, 08:53 AM
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shayne young
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Silicone brake fluid sometimes does not interact well with certain internal seals and can cause them to swell.. I prefer the ATE blue fluid, it's a high performance non silicone racing brake fluid and readily available, comes in a blue can..

------ Follow up post added October 22nd, 2014 08:55 AM ------

And I have seen some performance brake discs on eBay for sale, either ventilated or slotted, this allows the brake gases to escape the surface and allows for better cooling, if you don't have the later style front ventilated discs I would go to those but other than that, it's like everyone else has said, the stock systems work pretty darn well.. Do you have rear discs or drums.??

------ Follow up post added October 22nd, 2014 08:56 AM ------

Forget that last bit, you have discs, I just read your registry...95 d90
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  #6  
Old October 22nd, 2014, 09:45 AM
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Russell
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Outgassing is a thing of the past with today's carbon-ceramic brake pads. If you need the placebo effect, go for the bling. Else, keep it stock. Ditto for brake fluid. Stick a quality Dot 4 like Castrol in there and call it a day.
Regardless, there are bigger problems to address if one is going 80 plus in a Defender and needs to brake hard or make an evasive maneuver. It is simply foolish to drive these at that speed.
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  #7  
Old October 22nd, 2014, 11:36 AM
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Mike Barnett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
RedWinch just came out with a bracket kit to install front D1 4-pot calipers on the rear axle.
Link?
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  #8  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 07:49 PM
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ATE blue is definitely not "readily available" anymore LOL
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  #9  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 08:24 PM
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Jimmy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
It is simply foolish to drive these at that speed.
I usually cruise at 75-80 and have no issues with control or braking. I can lock up my tires fairly easily. Mine isn't lifted, and all of the suspension and steering are tight.
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  #10  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 08:27 PM
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Brett Fritzler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiftRover View Post
Link?
http://www.red-winches.com/products/...ersion-lr/109/
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  #11  
Old October 23rd, 2014, 11:57 PM
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Robert Lynch
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There is a land rover setup as well for the up-armored trucks (Heavy duty rotors and calipers which are basically thicker)
other than that - if you go Alcon or other you are going to have to increase the wheel size last time i looked - ok if your just on-road only but why.. My 90 cruises at 75 and stops pretty good for a short wheel base defender, i just did all the calipers (new), disc's, and master on it. Stock fluid.
No reason for a high temp fluid if your not repetitive braking it, your not going to boil it.

On my last 964 cup - i kept the stock turbo brakes and used high temp Motul, worked perfect after multiple stints, not a direct comparison at all but that application required it - defenders don't, imho.
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  #12  
Old October 24th, 2014, 04:08 PM
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Jimmy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
That's actually kinda cool, but not really necessary IMO.
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