Better drivability options for 35" tires & lift? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 12th, 2016, 03:18 PM
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Jeff
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Better drivability options for 35" tires & lift?

Hoping to get some drivability back on roads with 4" and 35's. (Less wonder, tighter steering)
- I figure I can start with an OME Steering stabilser.
- I'll check to see if there are front and rear sway bars... Any recommendations if they were removed? Davide Coresetti makes a badass system, looks expensive though;
Corsetti News - Davide Corsetti & 4WARD4X4 Land Rover off road products TUV approved[tt_news]=7&cHash=7d0c803b6a9f947f2d0984d26c8ad79e

I Ditched the HD draglink to a new stock one as the threads are no match to the stock thread+clamp system.
I have 12" 2.5 remote res shocks and mounts, + rear trailing arms.

Any input would be great, and no, the lift and tires are staying
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  #2  
Old February 12th, 2016, 03:39 PM
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Phillip
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how are your bushings, wheel bearings and swivel preload? dont forget that steering box and shaft..
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  #3  
Old February 12th, 2016, 03:41 PM
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Have you checked your swivel ball tension?

Also have you checked your ball joints in your steering system?

I had a wicked wandering problem a few years ago and pretty much all the ball joints in my steering were shot, as well as my swivel ball tension which was so loose that I could jiggle my swivel ball with my bare hands. After replacing all the ball joints and re-doing my swivel ball tension, everything was good.

If all those things are good, then the next thing to do is to toe your tires in.
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  #4  
Old February 12th, 2016, 04:49 PM
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If it is more than a two inch lift, the castor is probably way off causing it to wander.
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  #5  
Old February 12th, 2016, 04:53 PM
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You probably have negative castor. Fix that and make sure everything is good.

Or get rid of the lift. 4" is stupid. I run 35s with no lift. Drives no different than stock.
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  #6  
Old February 12th, 2016, 05:45 PM
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Just my experience: I dare say that the lift probably has little to do with wandering. I may be an idiot, but let me explain:

Factory specs:
Toe-out Measurement .................................................. ....... 0 - 2.0 mm (0 - 0.08 in.)
Toe-out Included Angle .................................................. ..... 0° - 0° 20'
Camber Angle............................................. ........................ 0°
Caster Angle .................................................. .................... 3°
Swivel Pin Inclination .................................................. ........ 7°

I've personally run castor everywhere from 0 to 6+ degrees due to odd combinations of lift and radius arms, and my truck has never experienced wandering. What happened as I went to 6 degrees was that the truck was sensitive to death-wobble when toed in. Toe out solves death wobble problems instantly.

Basic rules of thumb I have found that worked. As your castor goes negative, toe in. At the factory castor angle, toe out to spec. As your castor goes positive beyond the factory angle, if you experience death wobble, then toe out more.

I have found that the heuristics are quite simple.

I am a big fan of the big lift It's a gauntlet getting it all right however.
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  #7  
Old December 5th, 2016, 12:11 PM
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Stephan Dennig
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Drivability and durability what is more important?

Dear Forum,

about the drivability, with 35" tires it is alway a problem on LR Defenders. The durability gets loss. In this case you shoud stronger suspension bushes, caster correction trailing arms, steering arms, adjustable panhard rod.
and steering damper.

The next is the steering damper. You can find a strong one on ENGAGE4X4. com


Suspension parts made in Germany.

For more information about Defender Zubehör (accsessories and technical requests) ask

------ Follow up post added December 5th, 2016 06:15 PM ------

Dear Forum,

is anybody interessted in Safety Devices Cage carrier? Possible to fit foldable jerrycan holders and lockable and foldable sandtrack mounts....
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  #8  
Old December 5th, 2016, 01:07 PM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4WARD4X4 View Post
Dear Forum, about the drivability, with 35" tires it is alway a problem on LR Defenders. The durability gets loss. In this case you shoud stronger suspension bushes, caster correction trailing arms, steering arms, adjustable panhard rod. and steering damper. The next is the steering damper. You can find a strong one on ENGAGE4X4. com Suspension parts made in Germany. For more information about Defender Zubehör (accsessories and technical requests) ask ------ Follow up post added December 5th, 2016 06:15 PM ------ Dear Forum, is anybody interessted in Safety Devices Cage carrier? Possible to fit foldable jerrycan holders and lockable and foldable sandtrack mounts....
I feel like some of your suggestions for 35" tires have more to do with lift rather than the tire size.

I have found the following with running 35" tires on a Defender:
- no more than a 2" lift is needed
- swap to longer bumpstops
- re-gear axles depending on power
- HD axle shafts are most likely needed unless you are super smooth
- cut fender flares (eyebrows) as needed
- you will need spacers or greater offset wheels and adjusting the stop bolts on the front axle. Rear of a 90 will clear a wide tires but not on a 110 as the spring has a larger OD

I feel steering components get banged up more from hitting rocks than tire size. Also the overall weight of the wheel/tire combo can be a factor. A set of 285 Intercos on Wolfs steels could be heavier than a BFG KM2 315 on an LR alloy.
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  #9  
Old December 5th, 2016, 01:17 PM
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Frank Rafka
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A steering stabilized is NOT the solution...fix the castor, check the bushings...everything that's been posted will help fix this. The lift is killing you and you can run bigger tires with out turning it into a monster truck...
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  #10  
Old December 5th, 2016, 01:23 PM
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Chris
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Anyone else notice that the OP hasn't commented since he started this thread in Feb 2016? Guess everything is ok now.
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  #11  
Old December 5th, 2016, 01:27 PM
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Stephan Dennig
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Dear Don,

thanks for your reply. of coures it has todo with lifting, but also with with the drivability.

No 35" tires w/o lift, steering components (knuckles steering box) is more under stress with hugh tires like 35" - The lift of suspension change the ankles of the steering rod, probshafts, etc.
Wheel spaces keep the stress on wheel bearings and reduce the durability as well under extreme conditions.

In 2011 we do a test on 2007 Defender 110 TD4. We fit Hutchinson Beadlock Wheels with only 255/85R16

Those rims are has a weight 23 kg w/o tire(w tires 53 km). We reduce onroad the pressure up to 1,5 bar for around 10k Kilometer. Result damged steering box. While start the test the steering box has 90.000km.

What I just like to say, every change from axle, suspension, has to be well done, and should be keep in mind
that the durability is going down.
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  #12  
Old December 5th, 2016, 01:51 PM
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Matthew
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I got a adjustable panhard bar and after my full rebuild it make a considerable difference. I just allergies sit then got a 4 wheel alignment with thrust angle... What a world of difference
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