Best Way to Change Clutch Master in a '95? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 26th, 2012, 01:06 PM
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Scott T
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Best Way to Change Clutch Master in a '95?

Is it best to just remove the wing (how hard is this), or go the blood, sweat, tears (and mutilated hands) method trying to be a contortionist?
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  #2  
Old June 26th, 2012, 05:43 PM
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not sure if it is in the same position as my 90, got an 86 over from the UK, but what I did was to remove the brake box mounting bolts and shift that whole unit over a little and it gave me enough room to slide the clutch box and pedal out from between the wing and brake box.
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Old June 26th, 2012, 06:41 PM
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I changed mine by swiping my credit card :-)

With the amount of labor I was charged I don't think they could have removed the wing...
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  #4  
Old June 26th, 2012, 07:16 PM
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Having done the job I've wondered if it would have been easier to just cut the pedal off and then replace it. It's easy to remove the pedal from the box and reassemble but then you have to put it back in...........
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Old June 26th, 2012, 09:59 PM
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It is a pita but I too had loosened the brake box to get the slave out. If the fenders have never been taken off they can be a pain too.
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Old June 26th, 2012, 10:39 PM
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Remove as much of the brake fluid from the reservoir as you can. Disconnect the hard line. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the pedal box in place ( should be 3/8 / 15mm) and with care remove the pedal box. Replace the master clutch cylinder on the bench and re-install the pedal box.

I personally cut a 6" access panel into the wing with a aluminum hinge. One 10mm bolt and you can easily check the fluid and change everything without scraping a knuckle

Remember " a job is not done until you bleed on it"
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Old June 27th, 2012, 12:53 AM
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Jason Lavender
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Literally just did this the other week. What roverx said is pretty spot-on, HOWEVER I did not have to disconnect any lines to the brake reservoir. I just undid the 6 bolts that hold the brake booster on, and carefully slid it over out of the way an inch or so (that's really all you need).

Then getting access to the clutch is a little easier, and you'll be able to get the clutch assembly out. Just drain the clutch reservoir, disconnect the lines, undo the 6 bolts holding the clutch assembly, and wiggle it out so you can replace the master on the bench.

It's really not hard - I was dreading it after I read things on here, but I've done many worse jobs. Just do yourself a favor and replace the slave & flex line while you're at it. And use Castrol GT LMA. And for the love of God don't cut any access panels into the wing!

Oh, and I used the Motive European Black Label Power Bleeder to fill once reassembled. Love that thing for brakes/clutch.
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Old June 27th, 2012, 09:07 AM
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Don Bunnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Literally just did this the other week. What roverx said is pretty spot-on, HOWEVER I did not have to disconnect any lines to the brake reservoir. I just undid the 6 bolts that hold the brake booster on, and carefully slid it over out of the way an inch or so (that's really all you need).

Then getting access to the clutch is a little easier, and you'll be able to get the clutch assembly out. Just drain the clutch reservoir, disconnect the lines, undo the 6 bolts holding the clutch assembly, and wiggle it out so you can replace the master on the bench.

It's really not hard - I was dreading it after I read things on here, but I've done many worse jobs. Just do yourself a favor and replace the slave & flex line while you're at it. And use Castrol GT LMA. And for the love of God don't cut any access panels into the wing!

Oh, and I used the Motive European Black Label Power Bleeder to fill once reassembled. Love that thing for brakes/clutch.
x2 - pretty much exactly how I was going to respond.

I might remove the wing next time I have to do it as my bulkhead was a little snotty from leaking fluid over the years. I did a quick wire brush, primer and spray paint job but will want to get it dialed next time.
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