Best paint for rear tire carrier & brush bar - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 11th, 2010, 10:48 PM
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Best paint for rear tire carrier & brush bar

I am going to be sand blasting and painting the brush bar and painting the rear tire carrier, what primer and paint do you reccomend. I am looking to do this myself, so I am not lookinf to powder coat. I am looking for the stock look - so flat black and something that will last in the North East elements. I have POR15 for the frame and considered using it for the tire carrier and brush bar, but I have heard mixed reviews re: discoloration when it is exposed to the sun. Any thoughts / suggestions are appreciated. thanks
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  #2  
Old May 11th, 2010, 11:09 PM
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Galvanize them first. No paint will last.
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  #3  
Old May 11th, 2010, 11:45 PM
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I used Por-15 last summer for my bumper and rear tire carrier and then went with their Hardnose product. After a Quebec winter with road salt and sant its like it just came out of the shop. Nothing at all, no pitting, no chipping nada, niet !

But like any paint application, it's all about preparation. If I had to do it again i would use the same thing but would apply it with a litle more care as I do have a few brush stroke and drops showing. Otherwise great product and not too expensive considering.

By the way I had my stuff all media blasted prior to preping.

Pat
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  #4  
Old May 12th, 2010, 08:52 AM
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If you insist on paint, phosphate with phosphoric acid first then use an epoxy primer followed by proper paint. Nothing "consumer" grade will last.

As said above, galvanizing is the best option.
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  #5  
Old May 12th, 2010, 12:10 PM
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Por-15 as your base coat then paint on top of it.

for my rear cross member i por-15'd it then top coated with a semi-matt black bumper paint (spray can) from the paint store locally. - look sgreat aver a year and the bumper paint is somewhat elastic so it can stand a good amount of abuse.
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  #6  
Old May 12th, 2010, 02:13 PM
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I'd had good experiences with POR 15 basecoat, then Rustoleum Hammered as the topcoat. Its mildly textured and seems to hold up well to areas that are abused without scratching or cracking. (I've had it on my TJ's side steps/rock rails for 4+ years and it still looks new). http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=29
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  #7  
Old May 12th, 2010, 06:48 PM
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What about powder coating?
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  #8  
Old May 12th, 2010, 07:40 PM
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my experience with powder coating is that once the surface is cracked, water gets in and pretty soon you have a growing, flaking, chipping problem - unless it is galvanized first.
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  #9  
Old May 13th, 2010, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdb View Post
my experience with powder coating is that once the surface is cracked, water gets in and pretty soon you have a growing, flaking, chipping problem - unless it is galvanized first.
agreed, thats what happened to the bestop branded (who knows who actually made it) Tire rack after 4-5 years on my TJ, a few cracks and the powder chipped off, allowing the welds to rust and it fell apart under the weight of a 35" MTR REAL quick.
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  #10  
Old May 29th, 2010, 12:54 AM
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Is it pretty straightforward to powder coat a galvanized piece? What's the preferred painting method for galvanized steel?

I pulled my tire carrier tonight and it's getting rebuilt. I want to do the job right.
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  #11  
Old May 30th, 2010, 09:29 AM
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As others have said , first is the proper preparation , sand or media blasting down to bare steel is best, then galvanizing is great if you can find some one to do it.(then you have to worry about your bronze bushings )If you want to do it yourself POR 15 is a great first coat but it is not UV resistant it must be top coated .( which is really to bad because even with a brush POR15 has a great looking finish) I would never trust anything in a "rattle can" or spay paint cans they thin the products to much and there are not enough solids in them for a long lasting finish. I have bad results with Powder coats . I sand blasted front and rear bumpers on my H1 and powder coated them in a professional ship after one winter in VT salted roads rust was common though the coating.
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  #12  
Old May 30th, 2010, 04:20 PM
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Line-X is my favorite finish for stuff like that.
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  #13  
Old May 30th, 2010, 04:34 PM
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Have they made Line-X any more UV resistant ? I did a military trailer in in (inside and out) and it chalked up (faded to a dull black from semi gloss black. was not happy)
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  #14  
Old August 27th, 2010, 10:25 AM
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I'm tackling a similar project and noticed that the Por-15 folks also have a UV-resistant top coat....does anybody have any experience good/bad?

http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BL...oductinfo/CHG/
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  #15  
Old August 27th, 2010, 10:52 AM
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I use POR 15 a lot the stuff is amazing The only discouraging thing about it is the fact that it must be top coated if it will be exposed to the sun. If you are doing a Chassis no need to top coat. I did my MGA and in the process of doing all the steal parts of my 101FC with it now. The easiest top coating procedure it just before the second coat of POR15 dries (still tacky) hit it with a good rattle can paint. It is a shame you have to do this though as the POR15 even when it is applied by brush has a beautiful self leveling finish.
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Old August 27th, 2010, 11:02 AM
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Thanks for feedback Chris - I ordered:

Por-15 prep & ready (I am doing a bumper with almost no rust, and also a rollbar with no rust so I need to prep the surfaces)

Por-15 rust preventative paint - this will be the initial coat for the bumper, tire carrier, and rollbar

Por-15 "chassis coat" topcoat - they espouse it as highly UV resistant - I got the regular brush paint instead of rattle can just so I wouldnt be tempted to graffiti my neighbors garage door.....

I'll post the results when I'm know them....so probably in about 2 years. P)
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  #17  
Old August 27th, 2010, 11:13 AM
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I always rip down the surface with a sander grinder or sander, wire wheel (sand blasting is best) till it's bare metal then I hit it with acetone to make sure there are no contaminates . Then hit it with Por 15 you will be amazed how sweet it looks.
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  #18  
Old August 28th, 2010, 10:12 AM
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One thing you have to get creative with when using POR15 is poring out only what you need to use and sealing the unused portion immediately back up. I have found buying their 6 pack mini cans and "tapping" the cans with good size sheet metal screws (one to pore the paint through the other as a breather hole) and never prying the can tops off works well. you have to do an extended swirling ,shake, technique to mix the paint. But you will find if you open the can to stir and pore it out of the pint, quart or gallon size cans the air gap left in the container when resealed will ruin the paint. I have also taken small "ball" resealable jars to split up the POR15 leaving little to no air space. Also use plastic wrap to put in between the can /cap or jar/ cap so the POR15 wont permanently seal the surfaces together. POR15 is far to expensive to have to through half a can away because it went bad.
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  #19  
Old September 1st, 2010, 09:18 AM
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I've used Rustoleum 'Hardhat' Spray Cans in the past and have been very impressed with the finish and durability.

I see that in the US they call it Rustoleum High Performance - V2100 System Enamel Aerosol

http://www.rustoleumibg.com/product....=2&snv=1&bid=1


In the UK, the colours available conform to German RAL colours, but they're different in the US, here's what they list -

http://www.rustoleumibg.com/techinfo.asp


.
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  #20  
Old September 1st, 2010, 10:35 AM
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Whichever you choose (other than PC) make sure to use an epoxy primer, these cure chemically and provide a proper seal for the underlying metal vs any spray paint primer. Experience shows me that unless you do this, you will get rust coming up no matter what else you do, this is how Rover does their initial spray on the bodywork and it's tough stuff as anyone who's tried to remove it can attest to. Using a clear coat over the paint will also help.
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