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  #21  
Old December 30th, 2011, 12:11 PM
dchapman
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Daniel Chapman
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I have one in my closet that was pulled with 10k on it so I hope your luck is the same as mine.
The first one I got had 8,000 miles on it, lol. The lady bought the truck, her husband got pissed, so she tried to return the truck. Of course they did not take it back. So she tried to claim it was using oil. Long story short, they gave her a new engine to avoid a lawsuit where she was claiming the truck had a bad engine.
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  #22  
Old December 30th, 2011, 12:35 PM
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May drop it in a currently carbureted '85 110
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  #23  
Old December 30th, 2011, 12:39 PM
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Daniel Chapman
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Originally Posted by Chris Velardi View Post
May drop it in a currently carbureted '85 110
Instead of buying a built 4.6, you may save a little bit of money if you buy just the crank and connecting rods. Take a 4-bolt main block, 3.9, 4.0, 4.2, or 4.6, what ever you can find, use the 4.6 crank and rods, 4.0 pistons, and you're done. You'll gain a bit more power this way. 4/6 cranks and rods from a cooked engine sell for pretty cheap. You'll have to have the crank turned at a machine shop, but it's not that much.
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  #24  
Old December 30th, 2011, 12:40 PM
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Bill Adams
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Originally Posted by Chris Velardi View Post
So what are you guys looking for the motors sitting around ? One of my old engine builders as a freshly rebuilt 4.0 with mild towing cam with 2,000 miles on it he wants to sell for around $3,000. (I was thinking I would be better off buying an old disco or rangie with 4.6 for a grand or so and have all the other parts and pieces that I could salvage ,wheels 1/2 shafts (ECU) injection systems etc. , etc,.
Jeez us H. Do not ever ever buy a rebuilt Rover V8. Buy one that is working, with reasonable mileage, and hope for the best as that's about all you can ever expect with these things. Go with your gut.
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  #25  
Old December 31st, 2011, 08:44 AM
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J. Michael McCaig
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It's basically an American V8, any reputable machine shop that can work on an aluminum Chevy V8 should be able to do the machine shop work. Ask around locally and I'm sure you can find one that builds race engines and they should be able to do the work well. Rover graded the 4.0 and 4.6 blocks with the heaver blocks going for the 4.6 engines. Paint color in the valley indicated the grade. Post 1997 - red and yellow for the 4.6, yellow and blue for the 4.0 with only the yellow used for either size factory built engine. The way I understand it liners slip either because the block cracks behind the liner due to increased bore with less metal in the block or because EFI engines run lean and at higher temps (stock thermostat 192F) and the back cylinders don't get enough cooling causing the pistons to drag. If you are going to build a 4.6 choose either an original 4.6 or a yellow coded 4.0 block so you will have the most metal behind the liner. Chris you will love a 4.6 in your 110. I did one for my '85 110, kept it carbureted and have never looked back.
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  #26  
Old January 1st, 2012, 12:10 PM
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shayne young
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I was not aware of the different colour coding of the blocks but I believe the only difference between the 4.0 v 4.6 was the crank and pistons...everything else was the same...the crank is stroked to give additional volumetric displacement and hence needed the piston pin placement position to closer to the crown (lower upper piston travel position) to compensate for that additional swept volume..????
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  #27  
Old January 2nd, 2012, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Jeez us H. Do not ever ever buy a rebuilt Rover V8. Buy one that is working, with reasonable mileage, and hope for the best as that's about all you can ever expect with these things. Go with your gut.
Dude....seriously? I've rebuilt plenty to better than new and have to date had zero failures and pretty damn good performance for what they are. Not stock builds either.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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  #28  
Old January 2nd, 2012, 11:43 AM
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I don't think I would ever go though the time effort or money of removing an engine and replacing it without re-building it an knowing , I have a good 100K plus miles to get out of it ( and of course throw a new fresh slightly lumpy cam ,bearings and rings in it) That's what my gut tells me , How many low mileage 14 + year old Land Rovers do you think are still out there that are not being retired or junked because of engine problems ?
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  #29  
Old January 2nd, 2012, 12:11 PM
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  #30  
Old January 2nd, 2012, 06:58 PM
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at least 2
Thas funny
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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