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  #1  
Old February 12th, 2008, 05:29 PM
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Bent Flange

How would one measure whether I have a bent flange? I recently twisted my front driveshaft in two. After replacing the shaft I now have vibrations I didn't have before. I've had the drive shaft tested for balance and it's okay. My guess is I bent either the flange at the t-case or the front diff but I have no idea how to measure this. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Clay
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  #2  
Old February 12th, 2008, 06:30 PM
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I would raise the front axle and use a dial test indicator (I like the ones with the magnetic base) to measure the shaft runout while spinning the front tires as a start...I would check the output flange on the transfer case as well.
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  #3  
Old February 13th, 2008, 03:47 PM
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Chris, this is great help. I'm working with a shop locally and i'll ask if they have experience using this tool.

Clay
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  #4  
Old February 13th, 2008, 05:24 PM
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They will. You use it for everything from checking runout to setting up gears and even manufacturing parts. I really can't imagine any mechanic not having one or two of these laying around--anyone that does things with tight tolerances... BTW, you can pick up this kind of thing pretty cheap at places like Toolking and Harbor Freight. One of the essentials in a "man's" garage, along with a bottle opener and welder. ;-)
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  #5  
Old February 13th, 2008, 07:55 PM
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If you grab the output on the front diff or on the front of the t-case, you should be able to feel if it is loose. That would be the first test in my book. You could have damaged a bearing.

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  #6  
Old February 14th, 2008, 01:44 PM
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Thanks Ron. I actually did the grab test and didn't notice any movement. I've had my front drive shaft on and off several times trying to figure this thing out and I never noticed any play during the process or roughness in the rotaion either. Are there front diff bearings that can be replaced without removing the entire diff? I that's true on the t-case. If so, maybe that's what i should ask my shop to help me with in order to rule these out for good.

Clay
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Old February 14th, 2008, 01:54 PM
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what is it doing again?

Vibes only with the front driveshaft connected?

If it is at a shop, I would make them figure it out. Without seeing it, I would assume that the breaking driveshaft damaged something in addition to the driveshaft. Not any real good ways of telling what unless you start pulling things apart. This is a new one for me. Most times a CV joint or axle breaks and not the driveshaft. In your case, it is hard to tell. No play or noise in the bearings on the snout and t-case output would lead me to believe it is something in either (1) the diff in the LT230 (because it would not show up when locked 2wd to rear axle, but would make trouble when unlocked with both connected). So I would see if when you drive with diff locked and both driveshafts attached it made a noise/vibe (do this only on wet/loose ground). Failing that, I think you have to pull apart the front axle and/or the t-case.
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Old February 14th, 2008, 02:11 PM
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Thanks again Ron. At the time it happened all four wheels were spinning faster then they probably should through some heavy sandy mud at the MAR this year. All of a sudden, WAAAM! Thanks for the two shaft test suggestion. I'm also thinking I should check the alignment of the front diff to the the t-case and the t-case to the rear diff, as well as motor/trans mounts. I guess there could have been some movement/damage in the process that would cause a bind and therefore vibrations.
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Old February 14th, 2008, 03:17 PM
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You can check that really easily by seeing if your motor mounts are ripped (they are rubber donuts) or if one of the metal mounts they attach to actually bent. I guess you could have even bent a mount for one of the radius arms or panhard rod, but it would be unlikely. Something to check for sure I guess.

BTW I still am betting the front shaft is bad even though it is new. Is it properly out of phase by a couple/few splines?
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  #10  
Old February 15th, 2008, 09:36 AM
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Thanks Ron, didn't think about the radius arms or the panhard rod. I'm adding that to the list.

Engine Mounts
Trans Mounts
Panhard Rod
Radious Arms
Diffs to T-case Alignment
Diff Out Put w/dial indicator
T-case Front Run Out w/dial indicator

then...

T-Case bearings

and then...

Diff out put bearings

then...

i sell my 2wd Defender

If i've used the wrong terminology or anything I'm open for corrections. I'd rather be corrected here and learn it now then look stupid in front of these guys at the shop.

thanks again,
Clay
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  #11  
Old February 15th, 2008, 10:25 AM
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"Engine Mounts
Trans Mounts
Panhard Rod
Radious Arms
Diffs to T-case Alignment"

The top four are the only things that could throw off #5.

You just need to get this thing to someone who knows what they are doing with it.

Ron
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  #12  
Old February 15th, 2008, 12:42 PM
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that's the tough part, right? there's so few that really know what they're looking at when it comes to these trucks. the shop i'm planning to take this to monday specializes in off road trucks (which is code for jeeps) but D90's make up less than 1% of their work, if I'm lucky. this whole land rover experience has been one gamble after another and i don't know half the time whether what i do will actually work or what i hire people to do, or buy from people, will actually work. it can be fun as long as it's well balanced. keeping things balanced is tough.
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  #13  
Old February 20th, 2008, 05:09 PM
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Update: Bent Front Pinion Flange and my CV shaft adapter was not perfectly seating. I had the adapter milled down a tad and I'm replacing the bent flange tomorrow. Will let folks know if this does the whole trick. Wish me luck.

Clay
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  #14  
Old February 20th, 2008, 05:16 PM
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Good luck.

Please post a pic of the bent flange as i am betting that "my CV shaft adapter was not perfectly seating" was/is the issue.
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