Belt driven air compressor set-up - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 28th, 2005, 02:02 PM
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David Shechter
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Belt driven air compressor set-up

Does anyone know of or have done a belt driven air compressors set-up on a 97'? I have been trying to work it out for months now. I met with the guys at Kilby Enterprises (AKA www.onboardair.com), we were able to locate a spot to mount a York compressor. The only thing left to do is fabricate a mounting bracket. If someone has already done it, it would make the job much easier. If I end up making a bracket is anyone else interested? I know that SG made a bracket for a 3.9 set-up which is different that than the 4.0. I tried calling them about a year ago, still waiting to hear back. Let me know if there is interest, I'll keep everyone posted as to the progress.
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  #2  
Old February 28th, 2005, 03:47 PM
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I was thinking if I could get the stock AC compressor for cheap (say $50) I would use that. But I am open to ideas.
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Old February 28th, 2005, 03:56 PM
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David Shechter
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I was going to convert my AC, but it's a mess with the whole Freon thing. Then disconnecting all the lines... This seemed like a clean easier more long term solution. A friend suggested replacing the fan with an electric one to help take some of the strain off the engine. Another friend also recommends using a 2 groove pulley and putting the York compressor on it's own belt to prevent robbing HP from the engine. Basically to only run the Compressor belt when needed. All still ideas on the drawing board. I'm open to more ideas, (a powertank isn't one of them... yet) as long as they involve a belt driven compressor.
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Old February 28th, 2005, 04:06 PM
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The compressor won't rob power, it should only use power when the clutch on it is engaged so I wouldn't worry about that too much. Also for best results I would bump the idle up some, the compressor will put out more air at higher RPMs, again helping with the load. The only part of the old AC you need is the compressor and maybe the hoses coming off the compressor, but you still need to have someone drain off the freon for ya. I have only had my 4.0 engine for a few months, it's not even running yet so I won't be really looking into this until summer, but I still want to hear what you come up with. What is the make and M?N# on the AC compressor?
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  #5  
Old February 28th, 2005, 05:19 PM
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David Shechter
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It would be a York 210 series compressor, rated for 4CFM at 1200RPM's, "capable of 8CFM" (so they say). It moves lots of air and with a mounted tank, it would be awesome. Air tools with no problem 100% duty cycle, unlike electric compressors... quiet, no clutter in the cab. A dream come true... I hope.
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Old February 28th, 2005, 08:55 PM
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Chris Davis
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I designed and made a compressor bracket for my V-belt set up and it works great. A couple things, though. Don't run at high RPM. Sure it pumps out, but that smell you smell is smoke---gets too hot and stuff melts and burns. I have a hand throttle, but now only run my at about 1000-1200 rpm. At that rate, it will still get hot, but not too bad. I have a recycling oil system in mine. I looked at doing this for folks with a serpentine belt, and if you don't have A/C, it is possible. I have a couple extra York 210's (one used, one new) if someone wants to get one--I used to sell them on e-bay a while back, but became disinterested after selling 8 or 9. Just too much work to clean them up. They do work great and I have been running mine for a couple years now.
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Old February 28th, 2005, 09:16 PM
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David Shechter
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Thanks for the advice. I was looking into adding a hand throttle, I'll have to think twice about it now. As far as the compressors go I let you know, but Kilby Enterprises offered to help me out with the project with regards to materials.
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Old February 28th, 2005, 09:29 PM
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I was more intrested in the stock AC compressor. And the stock AC compressor on the V-belts is cabable of 8 cfm also, I just filled it with grease instead of running oil in it.
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Old March 1st, 2005, 12:27 AM
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For a hand throttle (which I also use for a winch) I used a grip shift from an off road bike, mounted a short stub of a handle on a bracket (welded a small plate to end) and mounted it on the bulkhead to the side of the hood release--works great with multiple settings.

Mike, 8cfm is a lot. Congrats--I know quite a number of people that have tried to do that with all sorts of yorks and sandens and were not able--one bloke even tried hooking up a recycle oil pump--some time I would love to know your secret. Do you have some cooling fan hooked up? Even with a new York 210, I could only get 8cfm for maybe 30 seconds until you could lite a match on the compressor lid going 2400 rpm or so--just ask Yousef, he saw me start to cook my first one at a gas station! My 60 gallon 7hp 220 volt oil fed compressor in my garage will only do 10cfm under load--part of the problem is the physical nature of heat from compression and dispersing that heat. If I could use my York that high I would, if it would not burn it out. I never tried the stock compressor, though.
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Old March 1st, 2005, 05:23 AM
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Michael-P. Richter
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Hi!

Here a link to a webpage of a real "landy-maniac"
He has even built an air operated rear step...and a AC compressor based solution...
There are many pictures, so the german text isn't that important...
I could translate it, if necessary.

http://www.rainer4x4.de/druckluft.htm

michael
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  #11  
Old March 1st, 2005, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hippert
I was thinking if I could get the stock AC compressor for cheap (say $50) I would use that. But I am open to ideas.
Why pay 50? Check this out.... Ebay: 7958688140
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  #12  
Old March 1st, 2005, 04:54 PM
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John B.
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The Yorks are designed to run at a maximum of 6000 rpm. The factory manuals are here: http://www.ccicompressor.com/docs/CCIsrvice.pdf

Set your rpm with a hand throttle to keep the compressor safely below that speed when engaged (take into account the pulley speed increase). The best thing to use for a hand throttle is a vernier cable control, like these: http://www.glendinningprods.com/pdfs...litycables.pdf They cost around $40 US at any industrial supply shop.

The 210 model has 10.3 cu inches/rev. At 4000 rpm this equates to:

24 cfm @ 0 psi
7.9 cfm @ 30 psi
3.4 cfm @ 90 psi
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Old March 1st, 2005, 05:24 PM
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David Shechter
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John,
Good stuff! Thanks for the resource and data.
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  #14  
Old March 1st, 2005, 07:03 PM
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Chris Davis
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Just an FYI, the Yorks used as air conditioning compressors are designed to run at 6000rpm, as John B says, but as AIR COMPRESSORS, they most definetely are not. I have run these alot, always York 210's, both with and without the "oil fix" and now with the recyling oil set up. They are designed to be run at idle or slightly above idle as aircompressors. The heat exchange that takes place between compressing air and compressing refridgerant is completely different. Even at idle, the compressor gets too hot to touch when filling tires. DO NOT RUN THESE ABOVE 2000 RPM except for short bursts.
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Old March 1st, 2005, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabber
Why pay 50? Check this out.... Ebay: 7958688140
That will work for a 3.9 but not a surp belt 4.0.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis
Mike, 8cfm is a lot. Congrats--I know quite a number of people that have tried to do that with all sorts of yorks and sandens and were not able--one bloke even tried hooking up a recycle oil pump--some time I would love to know your secret. Do you have some cooling fan hooked up? Even with a new York 210, I could only get 8cfm for maybe 30 seconds until you could lite a match on the compressor lid going 2400 rpm or so--just ask Yousef, he saw me start to cook my first one at a gas station! My 60 gallon 7hp 220 volt oil fed compressor in my garage will only do 10cfm under load--part of the problem is the physical nature of heat from compression and dispersing that heat. If I could use my York that high I would, if it would not burn it out. I never tried the stock compressor, though.
Yeah it got HOT! But I only ran it for 15 min at a time. I fill it with Mobile one syn grease, it got so hot on a hot summers day once that it melted the belt! But no smoke from the compressor and no funny smells other then the belt. And I agree, these compressors are rated at 8 cfm when running freon in them, not air so they get real hot.
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Old March 2nd, 2005, 12:25 AM
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Another note on compressors set ups--I use a air tank from a fireman's carry O2 kit, but if you have room, the bigger storage tank the better--that way you can store air during down time (like between tires) and don't have to run the compressor too quickly. One guy I know has all his sliders and bumpers all sealed and hooked up together so they all act as one big tank--pretty smart, actually. I may consider that at some point. If I was to build new bumpers/sliders I would incorporate them for storage (that way you introduce no new weight or storage area).
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Old March 2nd, 2005, 04:00 PM
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OK I have seen one of these in use and this is where I got the idea to put grease in mine. A fellow 90er had one in his to fill his 36s and it worked good, I asked about it and he told me the only thing he does is once a year he fills it with grease, I also remember it being in the $400 to $500 range. Thats why I went the elcheapo rout and "modified" the stock compressor.

http://www.4wdworld.com.au/products/endless_air/
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