Beginning Process: Dismanteling a 110 - Defender Source
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Old June 29th, 2015, 04:15 PM
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Beginning Process: Dismanteling a 110

OK, so this evening I'm going to start the process of tearing down the front half of the 110.

Wondering if anyone could give me pointers on easiest way to go about this? Going to be removing the bulkhead, pulling engine and transmission.

Where would you start? What are some things to know? And what tips/tricks have you learned from doing this job that you wish you had known at the beginning?
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  #2  
Old June 29th, 2015, 04:22 PM
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An electric angle grinder with good quality zip discs is your friend! Oh and a nut splitter for tight spots.
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Old June 29th, 2015, 04:24 PM
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corrosion?

I would start with PB blaster and a few days to let it sit. When I started removing things on my 90 I had a lot of work in this regard.

Also get you some of these, and a hole punch with some zip ties...
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Old June 29th, 2015, 04:32 PM
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corrosion?

I would start with PB blaster and a few days to let it sit. When I started removing things on my 90 I had a lot of work in this regard.

Also get you some of these, and a hole punch with some zip ties...

Yep lots of baggies and label them. Also take pictures, lots of them, like three times more than you think you need.
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Old June 29th, 2015, 04:40 PM
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Start at the radiator grille just start taking parts off & yes blaster is a good tool.
Either bag or bottle & mark the bolts you may not reuse them but it is good to know later what was where.
If you are removing the bulkhead you might as well remove the top put it away somewhere.
Everything I did not want to do I ended up having to do anyways, go figure.
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Old June 29th, 2015, 05:30 PM
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What are you planning on doing to it? If you just need to remove them, that can be done in very large chunks and quite simply, if you are replacing the bulkhead, etc. you have to strip every thing down to the nut, bolt and screw.
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Old June 30th, 2015, 02:43 AM
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Thanks for replies.

I'm swapping the 3.5 for 300tdi and r380, plus a bulkhead swap. The two bulkheads have virtually the same equipment: LHD, Saudi/NAS. But will be using standard fan heater core and no A/C. And the bulkhead going in has new style fuses.

I think I may be able to pull the bulkhead and dash in one piece.
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Old June 30th, 2015, 04:10 AM
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Where would I start....probably at the coffee machine and end at the beer keg...
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Old June 30th, 2015, 07:01 AM
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pull radiator support panel, front wings and windshield frame. Pretty straight forward
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Old June 30th, 2015, 08:35 AM
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Lunch zip locks and a sharpie. Label ALL the bolts you take off of one section.

Magnetic bowl. Fill up the bolts with said bolts, then label and throw them in a box.

Try to pressure wash everything beforehand. It won't get everything, but it'll get a lot.
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Old June 30th, 2015, 09:05 AM
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uncle Doug has it....compare the bulkheads and see what you "need" to take off.

Also - cut bolts off where you can with a cut off wheel....not worth the effort as you should replace them anyway with stainless - BUT NOT THE bolts like the ones that hold the wings to the bulkhead...you will need them again. There are some you can't replace.

make sure you order all knew seals, like bulkhead to window, to put on, plus you may want to think about all the other things you should replace with the truck in pieces now...

Have fun...and scream for help when you need it
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Old July 1st, 2015, 05:23 PM
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OK, as far as the bulkhead/dash is concerned, I'm looking at all the wiring and thinking I should start with the fuse panel, and trace each bundle back from there with labels at the ends. Pull what I won't need, carefully keep what I do. Sound good?

Also, I'm thinking I should go the extra mile and actually dismantle the entire bulkhead/dash and clean and fix everything that needs it. A lot of work, but I think it may be worth it in the end. The bulkhead has only minimal rust, but I still feel like I should start with a blank slate.... Or... would you just leave it as is, and not go through the process of all that routing of wires and the vents and the buttons and the switches...?
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Old July 2nd, 2015, 04:18 PM
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Averaging 1 bolt per hour.
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  #14  
Old July 2nd, 2015, 04:33 PM
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After galvanizing (hint hint) a new bulkhead I built up the remainder of the body prior to building up the bulkhead with dash, wiring and hydraulics. I wish I had built up the dash et al prior to doing the body.

YMMV
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Old July 2nd, 2015, 04:47 PM
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Sounds like a good idea. As in, put it all together first, then mount to frame?

QUESTION: Do I need to remove wheel arches to get to the bolts for the wings along the pillars?
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Old July 2nd, 2015, 07:56 PM
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Mount the bulkhead on the frame and build it up before building the body shell or adding the drivetrain.

Yep, pull the flares.
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Old July 3rd, 2015, 11:19 AM
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Didn't realize there was a vent flap in the wing with what looks like a kind of vacuum actuator. It is disconnected, so I don't know what the original set up would have been.
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Old July 3rd, 2015, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
OK, as far as the bulkhead/dash is concerned, I'm looking at all the wiring and thinking I should start with the fuse panel, and trace each bundle back from there with labels at the ends. Pull what I won't need, carefully keep what I do. Sound good?

Also, I'm thinking I should go the extra mile and actually dismantle the entire bulkhead/dash and clean and fix everything that needs it. A lot of work, but I think it may be worth it in the end. The bulkhead has only minimal rust, but I still feel like I should start with a blank slate.... Or... would you just leave it as is, and not go through the process of all that routing of wires and the vents and the buttons and the switches...?
just take pictures tape labels suck
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Old July 3rd, 2015, 11:40 PM
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Thanks for help. I want more pointers as I go, but I think I will start a build thread... Which is very optimistic of me considering that I'm 10 hours of clock time into this and still have both wings on......
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  #20  
Old July 4th, 2015, 01:17 AM
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+1 for everything Doug said. Also, for the wing-to-bulkhead screws (they're actually screws with hex caps), it's easiest to use a 1/4" drive socket set with a bunch of really long extensions linked together. Getting them off isn't easy but it's easier than getting them back on. :-)

Message me on FB if you need some Rosetta Stone pics to decode some three hundy mystery or my phone if you have questions.
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