Beating my head against the wall a bit. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 15th, 2008, 06:27 PM
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shane cates
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Beating my head against the wall a bit.

spent a few days going over the rover. Clutch, t-bearing, pressure plate, power steering lines, brake rotors, etc. Got it all back together and had a bitch of a time trying to bleed the clutch (which shouldn't be that hard) and I realized that I'm leaking air somewhere. I then see a couple of drips on the floorboard. I assume that my issue is the clutch master cylinder. Should I replace the seals for $12 or get a new one $69?
Thanks.
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  #2  
Old December 15th, 2008, 06:39 PM
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They are so hard to get out and back in that I would definitely replace it if you need new seals.
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  #3  
Old December 15th, 2008, 06:52 PM
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depends. I would only replace it if you buy a lucas/girling or genuine land rover master cylinder. Otherwise the old one with a new (lucas/girling or genuine land rover) seal kit is better than the cheap after market clutch cyliners.

BTW you can remove the clutch MC in situ without removing the fender. I did it once on my first D90, but now I forget how.
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  #4  
Old December 15th, 2008, 06:53 PM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
They are so hard to get out and back in that I would definitely replace it if you need new seals.
X2 and wipe up that fluid if you like your paint.
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  #5  
Old December 15th, 2008, 06:55 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Just replace the cylinder. Yes, you can replace it all without pulling the fender, I've done it a few times. You have to unbolt the brake pedal box though to get the space you need though. Its just a matter of finessing the clutch pedal box out. Note the position of the pedal on the shaft, its a hassle to adjust once its back in the truck.
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  #6  
Old December 15th, 2008, 07:09 PM
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I seem to vaguely recall undoing the cover plate and the six bolts holding the box to the fender and then taking the MC out and leaving the pedal box in.
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  #7  
Old December 15th, 2008, 07:20 PM
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shane cates
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Thanks much!
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  #8  
Old December 16th, 2008, 03:19 PM
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Yeah how do you adjust the pedal (nut on the MC threaded shaft)? I usually just center the nut halfway and it seems ok.....

Neil
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  #9  
Old December 16th, 2008, 03:35 PM
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Bill Campbell
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Ya you can adjust the engage point via the threaded shaft in the MC. I have rebuilt my MC twice with the 19.99 kit. After the second time I noticed that the threaded shaft was stripping where the locknut had worn it. Go for the original MC and just replace the whole thing. You don't have to take off the fender, but you should pull the hood and unscrew the 6 bolts holding the brake housing. You can then shift the brake housing over enough to slip the MC out after it is all disconnected.



B
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  #10  
Old December 18th, 2008, 10:31 AM
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shane cates
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turns out the master cylinder cover was the problem. Got things bled finally. Must have gotten one of the tranny/transfer case wires wrong because I have no locker light working on the dash. Exhaust will go back on tommorow. After sitting for two weeks, I'm ready to driver her again.

One question though, how do the o2 sensors on a defender affect engine operation compared to more modern cars? The reason I'm asking is that I had no check engine light or anything else when I took her around the parking lot last night with no exhaust.

If anyone tackles the clutch job on one of these, I recommend a tranny jack and at least 2 friends. Stabbing that thing was a bitch.
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I love little country streams, sleep without dreams, sunday school in may,
And hay
And I love you too
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  #11  
Old December 19th, 2008, 07:27 PM
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Brian Jenkinson
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clutch mc

When I did my MC I took a notch out of the bulk head and was able to get the pedal out without any issues. I read about that trick on this board.
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