Battery not charging - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old January 1st, 2013, 10:41 PM
EdvinT
Status: Offline
Edvin
1995 Difender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunland,California,US
Posts: 6
Battery not charging

Somebody help: I have a Defender 90 and recently my battery drains.
I have changed alternator and battery, my body ran some tests on the new alternator and the
Battery and it is not showing the alternator charging. I have taken the alternator to the local
Auto parts and had them run a test and everything checks out ok.

So anyone out there that can help, please do.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old January 1st, 2013, 11:31 PM
rdavisinva's Avatar
rdavisinva
Status: Offline
Robert Davis
N/A
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 6,804
Not Enough Info

Does the alternator light glow when the key is on and go off again when you run the engine?

Facts, data, and more info is required in order to make a determination.

Often when the bulb in the alternator warning light burns out, it can interrupt the field energy and thus not supply the base coils with the power necessary to generate electricity.
__________________
RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old January 1st, 2013, 11:38 PM
EdvinT
Status: Offline
Edvin
1995 Difender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunland,California,US
Posts: 6
To answer your question, no the battery light does not turn on when I start, but I have checked the light behind the panel and it does work. One thing might help you is the rpm gage does no longer work.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old January 1st, 2013, 11:40 PM
nathanwind's Avatar
nathanwind
Status: Offline
Jason Lavender
88-90-127-LR3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saratoga NY
Posts: 8,743
Registry
What kind (brand) of alternator are you sporting?
__________________
Jason Lavender
'71 Series IIA
'88 127 #F96 DKN
'94 90 NAS #324
'06 LR3 HSE

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

(10% discount for DSource members, use coupon code "D90")

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old January 1st, 2013, 11:42 PM
EdvinT
Status: Offline
Edvin
1995 Difender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunland,California,US
Posts: 6
Bosh
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old January 1st, 2013, 11:43 PM
rdavisinva's Avatar
rdavisinva
Status: Offline
Robert Davis
N/A
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 6,804
OK. Here's a re-phrase...
When the key is on and the engine not running, is the charge warning light glowing.
On the 95 I think it looks like a battery glowing red.
Then when you start the engine does the light go out?
__________________
RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old January 1st, 2013, 11:44 PM
dbj2003
Status: Offline
Brandon Jones
94 Defender 90 POE
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 220
My guess is you have a current drain somewhere. If you don't have a multi meter, radio shack has them for $25 or so. Cut the car off and compare the voltage drop across the battery terminals (with them connected) to the voltage drop across the battery terminals with battery cables disconnected. If its not close to the same, you have a load on the battery when the car is off. This means its not turned completely off and something is draining the battery. In this case, your easiest fix is to install a battery disconnect switch like those commonly used when shipping and disconnect the ground when parked. I found a used one for $10 for my truck.

Next guess is bad ground or bad connection due to corrosion in the circuit between the alternator and battery which is preventing it from having a high enough output voltage for charging the battery. Voltage at the battery when revving would show this. It should be 14-16V I think. If this is not the case look for corroded connections or rotted wires. I would assume that the shop checked this along with the battery for bad cells, etc but maybe not.

Good luck
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old January 1st, 2013, 11:47 PM
EdvinT
Status: Offline
Edvin
1995 Difender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunland,California,US
Posts: 6
Will do thx

------ Follow up post added January 1st, 2013 08:52 PM ------

No the battery light would not come on but we did test the light it's not blown
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 08:18 AM
rdavisinva's Avatar
rdavisinva
Status: Offline
Robert Davis
N/A
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 6,804
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdvinT View Post
No the battery light would not come on but we did test the light it's not blown
You didn't describe how you tested the light, but assume you removed it and applied power and it glowed.

If the battery light does not come on when the key is switched on with the engine not running and the alternator will not charge, then the field is not connected and this is the problem.

Assuming your alternator is functional, here is something to try:

If you have a battery interference transistor device, extra diode, or capacitor thingie (forget exactly what they are called and there are several types) that looks like a small black rectangle or round silver thing hooked to the outside of the alternator, it could be shorted out and causing your problem. Unplug it. These things are a nuisance and on the TDI are usually present and usually defective preventing the alternator from working.

I work on so many different Land/Range Rovers, can't remember if the 95 D90 V8 has separate leads that bolt on (like the TDI alternators) or a typical 3 or more spade plug.

It's a little tricky if you have the "all wires in one" plug, but one of the wires should have some yellow... brown with a yellow tracer stripe or just yellow. Open the plug and feed the small wire through with the yellow color or stripe. Replace it with a wire that is connected to 12V light bulb (not LED) at one side and the (+) battery at the other. Put the plug back on the alternator. The light bulb should glow and when the engine is running go out. If you have bolt on lug connections, then you may have the field (yellow or yellow stripe) wire on the wrong lead (but think yours is probably a plug).

If this works as described above, you have a break in the field wiring. It can be in the side of the charge warning light that goes from the IG power to the charge warning light or can be on the side of the charge warning light that goes to the alternator field. Replace or fix this wire break and your alternator should charge. Be sure and solder and properly insulate all connections... crimp ons are a fire waiting to happen.

Then if you fix the dash charge warning light and it comes on when the key is first switched on and goes out when the engine is running, but the battery still goes flat overnight... you have a short that is draining the battery. This is detected by removing the (-) battery lead and placing a lest light across the now broken connection: (-) battery lead to disconnected terminal end. If the light is bright, you have a short that can be located and fixed. Try it only after you have fixed the field wire described above. Then after we find any key off shorts and fix them... with the key switched on we can help you further detect a short, but it will require more complicated steps like unplugging the fuel pump relay and so on.
__________________
RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 08:32 AM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,503
Registry
Quote:
Be sure and solder all connections... crimp ons are a fire waiting to happen.
Totally 100% disagree. Solder connection will fail before a crimp. Crimps done properly will not make hot spots.
Virtually every car made today and for the past few decades has crimp connectors.
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 08:36 AM
nathanwind's Avatar
nathanwind
Status: Offline
Jason Lavender
88-90-127-LR3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Saratoga NY
Posts: 8,743
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Totally 100% disagree. Solder connection will fail before a crimp. Crimps done properly will not make hot spots.
Virtually every car made today and for the past few decades has crimp connectors.
Agree with Bill on this one...just buy a proper ratcheting crimp tool, and use either shrink tubing or nylon crimp connectors wrapped in silicone tape (which in my toolbox has replaced electrical tape).
__________________
Jason Lavender
'71 Series IIA
'88 127 #F96 DKN
'94 90 NAS #324
'06 LR3 HSE

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

(10% discount for DSource members, use coupon code "D90")

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 08:48 AM
rdavisinva's Avatar
rdavisinva
Status: Offline
Robert Davis
N/A
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 6,804
Crimps can be dangerous

Assuming someone knows how to crimp properly and has the proper high end functioning tool I do agree...

BUT

The typical cheap and very common crappy thin crimp connectors often come loose or oxidize to a point where they pass less or no current especially if they are made of aluminum and crimped (if you can call it that) or squeezed onto a wire end.

I can tell you my experience has been that many of the electrical issues that I have personally fixed are caused by poor crimping jobs with cheap ass hardware store connectors or wire nuts designed for home electrical service being put to the test by people that have never seen the need to learn how to use a soldering iron.
__________________
RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 09:24 AM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,503
Registry
Quote:
The typical cheap and very common crappy thin crimp connectors often come loose or oxidize to a point where they pass less or no current especially if they are made of aluminum and crimped (if you can call it that) or squeezed onto a wire end.

I can tell you my experience has been that many of the electrical issues that I have personally fixed are caused by poor crimping jobs with cheap ass hardware store connectors or wire nuts designed for home electrical service being put to the test by people that have never seen the need to learn how to use a soldering iron.
Yes, I agree that most DIY fixes are of poor quality. I have pulled apart enough furry, wire-nutted connections in my time. Or the other ones I hate are those blue fold-over wire taps that cut into a hot wire. Holey Cheeses. And gawd, the miles of gluey PVC electrical tape....Oh, the humanity!
Nonetheless, solder belongs on plumbing or PCBs.

Just redid a bodge on the current LeWB. PO had used those same hardware store spade terminals to connect the IGN amp on the diz. They were so corroded that it was a wonder I got spark at all. That and the twisted wire splice the used to fudge up the connection were making the thing buck and die when it rained.

@rdavisinva, once you go with the adhesive lined heat-shrink crimp connectors, installed with a good rachetting crimper, you will never go back. Marine-grade is the way to do it.
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 11:28 PM
EdvinT
Status: Offline
Edvin
1995 Difender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Sunland,California,US
Posts: 6
Hi everyone, I just logged in and see everyones opinion I will try all the things you guys a suggesting and I do think it is the connection. It All makes cense. Will have a update over the weekend. Thx
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
battery

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Battery Box Redux chris snell Smaller Projects 31 January 9th, 2016 03:34 PM
Battery charging solutions Treuwer Defender Technical Discussions 3 January 13th, 2010 03:52 PM
Dual Battery Charging RBees Defender Technical Discussions 5 January 4th, 2007 08:51 AM
Battery Charging chris snell Defender Technical Discussions 3 November 29th, 2006 12:20 PM
Dead Battery! And Random Stuff Mike Hippert Misc. Chit-Chat 24 May 31st, 2004 08:49 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:30 AM.


Copyright