Battery cut-off switch install - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 23rd, 2011, 10:23 PM
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Battery cut-off switch install

Where is the best place to install battery cut-off switch?
Should I brake positive or negative circuit?
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  #2  
Old August 25th, 2011, 08:30 AM
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Actually I'd like to know the same thing....I've got a marine-grade cutoff switch I've been meaning to install but havent decided where to put it. Certainly could go on or near the battery/seat box I was thinking.
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  #3  
Old August 25th, 2011, 08:59 AM
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I would break the Positive side... Then you can run a jumper to your radio and other stuff you would like to keep their settings.
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Old August 25th, 2011, 09:24 AM
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I tried breaking negative side as it's safer, but I found that it doesn't truely kill power to a lot of things as they sometimes get a ground from somewhere else.

I mounted my kill switch right on the battery box and have a protective plate around it so it doesn't get accidentally bumped.
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Old August 25th, 2011, 10:16 AM
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Jonathan, can you post a pic of your mount?
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  #6  
Old August 25th, 2011, 11:44 AM
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I used the Blue Sea 350 AMP 4-Position Compact Battery Switch.

This switch is rated 350A continuous/600A Intermittent/2000A cranking with the new Engine Starting Standard.

As you can see from the pictures, I interrupted the positive despite best practices to interrupt the ground. I did this for the same reason mentioned above...concerned that some of the systems would find a ground elsewhere.

I run all positive through this switch, including:
- Engine
- continuous and switch fuse panels to run accessories (CB, Stereo, lights, seat heaters, 12v power, etc...)
- AMP for stereo
- winch

This switch meets all of my needs.
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  #7  
Old August 25th, 2011, 11:57 AM
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Having rewired the entire truck, I can guarantee you that every connection in an 80's UK Defender is body grounded.
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  #8  
Old August 25th, 2011, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Having rewired the entire truck, I can guarantee you that every connection in an 80's UK Defender is body grounded.
Even the positive ones...
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  #9  
Old August 25th, 2011, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
I tried breaking negative side as it's safer, but I found that it doesn't truely kill power to a lot of things as they sometimes get a ground from somewhere else.
If you break the connection between the negative post and the vehicle it's not possible for them to get a ground somewhere else.
That said, I always break the supply cable.

For the OP, what are you trying to achieve? Security? No battery drain? Emergency kill for a winch?
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  #10  
Old August 25th, 2011, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
If you break the connection between the negative post and the vehicle it's not possible for them to get a ground somewhere else.
Technically, yes. But if you want to leave something connected, like a stereo or other things that require constant power, and thus a ground, that screws with cutting the ground. You hqave to truely isolate those electronics that you want to have constant power.
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  #11  
Old August 25th, 2011, 01:35 PM
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To Jon's point, I interrupted the positive as my winch positive is isolated to switch #2 (grounded to frame), and all other electronics are on switch #1. The purpose of isolating the winch to switch #2 is for safety reasons, god forbid, in the event of a front-end accident.

I always run on switch #1 unless I need to winch...then, I switch to "both".

I also like the ability to switch all power to "off" when I do not plan to use the vehicle for a while.
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  #12  
Old August 25th, 2011, 01:40 PM
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I have a separate winch cuttoff switch under the hood that stays off unless I am wheeling.

------ Follow up post added August 25th, 2011 01:41 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Jonathan, can you post a pic of your mount?
I'll post some pics tonight.
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  #13  
Old August 25th, 2011, 03:03 PM
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There are some advantages to using the neg cable connection to a mc switch, but generally most use the pos. Two things to be careful of, one that if you have an unsealed battery and you mount the switch in the bat. compartment, make sure you have ventilation. Second, make sure you choose a switch that is rated for the amps req'd, especially the starting demand.
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  #14  
Old August 27th, 2011, 06:36 PM
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Nathanwind,
Here's my cutoff switch. It a simple Hella brand switch with removable key. I bent a bracket to protect it from accidental disconnect. Nothing fancy, but it works.
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  #15  
Old August 28th, 2011, 01:49 AM
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Even the positive ones...


Hmmm.... looking at the state of some of those lucas looms, i'm not entirely sure about that one!
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  #16  
Old February 5th, 2012, 04:54 PM
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This thread is really interesting. I searched it, hoping to find some better answers. I too, would like to use my negative battery cable inorder not to interupt any constant powers.

I am looking to install a cut-off switch as a form of security. Any suggestions where to mount in? I really dont want to lift my seat off to get to the battery box everytime I am at the store. Inside the center console is an option. Anywhere else?

Thanks in advance.
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  #17  
Old February 5th, 2012, 05:03 PM
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I don't have time to look right now but I seem to remember that they made (used to make?) cut off switches that still allowed a small current to flow for things like clocks and radio backup memories, etc.? They had a fuse or a circuit breaker and if you tried to pull a large current such as when starting they tripped/blew and you couldn't start the vehicle. Might answer some of the problems with a straight kill switch for those with constant voltage devices.

No experience with them, never used one but seem to remember they exist...
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  #18  
Old February 6th, 2012, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
If it is just for security, you could do a toggle somwhere that simply interupts power to the fuel pump.
x2 if you want it for vehicle security. A lot easier to hide. If you want to get really creative you could "mask" them as 4 or 5 auxiliary light switches and wire them so they have to be set in a certain order (i.e. on-off-off-on-on) in order to get power to the pump.
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  #19  
Old February 6th, 2012, 06:41 PM
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Good Idea
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  #20  
Old February 6th, 2012, 07:05 PM
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So if killing the fuel pump, I've got a battery power lead that runs from the battery direct to the factory fuse box under the passenger seat (that contains fuses for things like the fuel pump).. In theory could one just install a cutoff switch to interrupt this lead, thereby serving the purpose?

I have a very heavy duty marine switch (shown here: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...1&d=1294420661) that I was planning to use, but would be overkill for just that small 8gauge lead wire I'd think.
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